When I changed the brake pads two years ago, I was lazy and didn't feel like bleeding the brakes. SO I just compressed the pistons back to get the pads in. This forced all the excess brake fluid back up into and out the resevoir. If I recall, around this time is when the ABS light came on. I can't really remember specifically because my brother was driving it at the time.

The ABS light basically stays on full time since. On the occasion should it not be on, it's always at the first drive of day, and the brakes feel like they are going out, pedal is bumpy, and doesn't feel like the brakes are working. SHould this occur, the ABS light will turn on and disengage the ABS.

I just checked all the brakes and don't see any leaks, which would lead me to believe that either there is air in the brakelines or there is too much brake fluid in the system. Would you agree?

 

What is your fluid level in relation to the "MAX FILL LINE"?

Sounds like more of an ABS malfunction, or, sensor bad...

 

The resevoir tank isn't level, but the fluid is over the max line. The front end of the tank is slopped downward, so that end of the tank is completely full. It tapers over to the rear/high end of the tank to about the max line.

Would a back a sensor cause what a mentioned; when the ABS light is off the brakes feel like they won't work and you might wreck...until the ABS light turns on and shuts it off. Would a back sensor cause this? I would tend to think a bad sensor would simply trip the ABS light to turn on and not affect the actual braking performance.

 

I had your problem. It would not stop until the light came on and disabled ABS. It was the rear sensor. It is located on the front top of the rear dif. You can unplug and put an Ohm meter on the 2 pins without removing. If it is Open it is bad. I think it should be 1200 ohms if good. I did not have front ABS, don't know how to check.