Getting ready to do the brakes on my truck and have narrowed it down to Wagner pads. Going to go ahead and replace the rotors, since the general impression is that the stock ones are crap in the first place, and more so after being turned. I can get the drilled and slotted Carquest Rotors for right at $86 a peice, but is it worth it? Does anyone have any expirience with these rotors in particular? Just trying to get some info before I spend the money!

 

If your going to replace the rotors I recommend the Powerslot Rotors, its what I have along with the Hawk LTS pad. You can pick all this up at the Tire Rack.
I town a 6000 lb trailer and noticed a big difference over stock, no dusting, fast pedal response, less fade.

 

i have rotorpros drilled and slotted and has saved me several times, you will really notice the difference at higher speeds, before these rotors it would feel a bit spongy at higher speeds due to the gas being trapped between the rotor and pad

 

Well from what I have read, newer modern pads dont produce the same gases that the drilled rotors were designed to disipate. Seems that they really aren't worth it outside of race applications...

 

ok well i gave you my advise, even my first hand experience, and you still dont want to hear it, so why did you ask? yes they do help alot in racing how do i know? i have raced cars since i was 5. when i got my rotors i was mainly getting them for looks and hopeing for a little better braking, i got great looking rotors and way better stopping i dont care what youve heard, what youve read, i know my brakes are better, i know my brakes will stop my truck faster then yours, i know i dont feel the gas build up anymore but did before

so take it or leave it they are better but if you think otherwise get stock rotors and dont ask questions you already know the answer to

 

Link me.

On some pads, there's a slot down the middle which is in place to dissipate gases to avoid cracking/brake fade. Gas is a result of the heat and burn off of pad material.
If there was some new revolutionary pad out there that didn't emit gas(es), why are they still producing drilled/slotted rotors?!

 

No need to get defensive. I was just stating what I have read. I am not calling you a liar. You have first hand expirience, and thank you for sharing it. I am trust trying to make sure that I get the best value for my money.

 

Also, does anyone have a write up on doing both the pads and rotors for these trucks? Read a few for the pads, but havn't found much for the rotors as well.

 

well that really depends on what kind of truck you have, 97-03 04-08 4x4 4x2

 

but its really pretty much the same

4x2 pull the wheels, 2 bolts hold the caliper on, then one big nut on the front rotor behind the dust cap, the rear should just come off(with a little persuasion from a hammer for the 04-08) then you need a new nut for the front rotors as you can only use them once

4x4 the same but the front rotor has no nut like on the rear

use a c clamp to compress the caliper, put new pads in and put everthing back to gether bleed the brakes and top off your fluid

 

Truck is a 2005 4x4.

What is the need for bleeding if the lines are never disconnected? Seems like it shouldnt be too bad of a process though. Definatly don't want to pay labor for something I can do in the driveway.

 

No need to bleed if you don't open the lines. It is fairly simple. I would advise maybe getting a haynes manual. It is a good resource to have around.

 

Get them, get them, get them!! They are well worth the time and money. I put SB cross drilled/slotted rotors ($75 a piece from National Fleet auto parts) and Hawk pads ($89) on mine all the way around. Couldn't be happier. If you want low maintenance, durability and good stopping power, get them. I've said it before on this site, 65,000 miles later and I still haven't had to change the pads and the rotors still look great and virtually NO brake dust!!

 

why stop? go with the baer kit.. they are awesome on your truck...

i'm going with midget.. i got the slots too and hawk ceramics. lol my foots usually in the other pedal but it's good knowing i got it if i need it.

and the coold down time seems quicker too..but thats just my opinion

Since you were 5??? dude, stick horses and cowboy hats...i was neighbor hood champ.

 

Basically, you said it. I'd guess to an extreme or in theory it would help having slotted and cross drilled but 99% of people a) never drive fast enough for comparison and b) if you do, you are in the wrong vehicle to do it in. I would look at drilling holes and slotting as comprimising strength, but that's me. Corvette's have these rotors, BMW's too amung others, but they are also giving you half the weight and a huge diameter rotor as well along with more piston calipers.

Not to discredit those with them, but alot of people like the showey "bling" racing look, some honestly believe they work lots better and then there's me who'd never see them (97-01 sawblade 17" wheel) and am easy on my brakes to begin with. Added to this, somewhere on Wilwood's site they actually don't recommend certain rotors for the street, cross drilled especially.