So clear me up! I 3.56 gears and 33's, I pull multiple things boats, trailers etc.. What gears do I want to switch to or what other mods do I need to bring my power back when I'm pulling and bring my gas mileage to the best I can get it everyday and when I'm pulling.

 

What kind of driving do you do? Highway? City? How much? If you want the most power than 4.56s would be the best way to go as well as a tuner to say the least. A exhaust and intake system wouldn't be a bad idea as well.

 

My driving is just everyday driving, but it wouldnt be abnormal to hook up to something everyday for about 20 min or so liking pulling trailers. By power I just mean my truck feels like a terd on hills and with weight I know should be no problem. My main concern is to get a mix of great gas mileage and good power.

 

Don't want to start new threat. sorry for hijackin it. but whats a good website to buy new gears on the web from??

 

I personally would recommend 4.10's. 4.10's will put you slightly lower than (i.e. better low end performance) the stock rpm/performance of a stock tire dia/3.73 ratio combination.

When I went 4.10's with my 33's, the truck was just a completely different truck to drive, gas mileage went up about 2-3 consistent mpg's and towing was now possible. I would have never survived with my trailer, 33's, and stock 3.55's.

 

I probably sound like a tard askin this but if you have a 4x4 should you gear the front diff too or what? Or do you even gear the front diff at all?
I have no clue...

 

planned tire size (size you want)
________________

current tire size * current axle ratio=gears you need.


if you don't get it then

size tire you want divided by your current tire size times your axle ratio you currently have. So mine would be 35/32*3.73=4.08 so 4.10s

 

Yes re gear front and rear.

 

Yes...you must do both. They always have the same ratio gears in both axles. You don't necessairly have to do the front at the same time as the rear, but if you have different gears in the front just consider your 4wheel drive INOP. Can't use it at all. But, it hurts nothing to drive around in 2WD with the wrong (non-matching) gears in the front.

 

Ok sweet thanks guys.
And about how much does gearing cost on average.
I have 35s on my truck now.

 

Re-gearing really depends on where you live but the average I've seen is between $1,300 and 1,6000.

I paid $1,600 for 4.88s and a Mag-Hytec differential cover.

 

I have 33s and when I finally get gears there going to be 4.56s if not 4.88s

 

Don't start a new thread.
Don't hijack this one.

Try Searching for once, you lazy fek. What - ya think this hasn't already been covered about a thousand times - with Links?

Done bein' nice to you, who hasn't even offered the courtesy to reply in other treads ....

Spoon Department's Closed, buckwheat.

Man - good thing most of the other Texans on this site have manners ... you must just be an anomaly ...

 

I actually did search and only came up with a few websites that didn't really give me the information that i needed. So thank you for much!!

And i am quite a nice texan!!! But thank you for all the previous replies in other threads!!

 

That's not enough to justify the $1500 expense or to compensate for heavier tires (besides the tire size effective gearing). By your math, you'd use 4.56 gear with 39" tires. Although the tires and gearing are just a percentage changes, you really want more change than the percentages imply for the heavier tires (like 55-65# for 35" tires vs. stock 40# 32" tires.