Brakes -What need to be done here..
Brakes -What need to be done here..
The power hasn't been what it use to be in a long long time.
The new stuff - Carquest Blues , brembo rotors, doorman calipers..
I bled the system 4 times. The last time , I replaced the fluid. They were bled properly - furthest from the master - the closest. Tube was submerged in jar of fluid while bleeding and no air was sucked into the master while I was replacing the fluid.
The anti-lock works fine - booster checks out.
I don't seam to have that much power - it's enough I guess , but so far no luck getting it back to how it was. It's feels like no power assist, but that checks out.
My lines are rusty and I haven't replaced the master for it yet - I have a new one on the shelf , but will that fix it or do you guys think it's most likely the lines?
Thanx
BTW - 229,000 miles on the brake system parts I haven't replaced yet.
The new stuff - Carquest Blues , brembo rotors, doorman calipers..
I bled the system 4 times. The last time , I replaced the fluid. They were bled properly - furthest from the master - the closest. Tube was submerged in jar of fluid while bleeding and no air was sucked into the master while I was replacing the fluid.
The anti-lock works fine - booster checks out.
I don't seam to have that much power - it's enough I guess , but so far no luck getting it back to how it was. It's feels like no power assist, but that checks out.
My lines are rusty and I haven't replaced the master for it yet - I have a new one on the shelf , but will that fix it or do you guys think it's most likely the lines?
Thanx
BTW - 229,000 miles on the brake system parts I haven't replaced yet.
Last edited by jbrew; Sep 6, 2007 at 07:23 PM.
I dunno bro, seems like the master or a vacuum leak going to the booster maybe. The lines? probably not a big issue, but if they are rusted bad enough, maybe replace to prevent an issue later. I myself feel like it's coming in the booster/master area. No, I'm not a mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!
Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4
I dunno bro, seems like the master or a vacuum leak going to the booster maybe. The lines? probably not a big issue, but if they are rusted bad enough, maybe replace to prevent an issue later. I myself feel like it's coming in the booster/master area. No, I'm not a mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!
Yea , well I'm thinking the EVAP is prolly the power assist problem - The fuel vapor hose plugs in above the booster hose on the throttle body . That hose runs thru the purge valve, then all they back to the charcoal canister by the spare tire. The hose is hook to vent that was suppose to be plugged into the canister. Well it's unplugged and hanging there - it had to have been that way for a long time. I should have receive an engine light.
I think most or all of stored air and booster air is being lost thru the EVAP.
I'm working on that now ..
Holiday Inn you say?
- I stayed at one of Tom Bodett's joints - his daughter left the light on for me
Yea , that's all that's left to do besides the master.
Thanx Patrick
I don't think it was my EVAP Blue - nothings leaking while the trucks running .. I took a pick of the that line. It's not on any drawing I have .
Thanx Patrick
I don't think it was my EVAP Blue - nothings leaking while the trucks running .. I took a pick of the that line. It's not on any drawing I have .
yea jbrew. my 96 crown vic had terrible brakes when i got it.i took a chance at the police auction so..anyway. i replaced every line and hose and new shoes and pads. now they work like police p71 brakes should. i bought it with 130k so.. your lines are way overdue for a change.its more the rubber ones but.. hard line is cheap enough.
Really , yea , I'll replace them then . How do you go about it - bend the hard line yourself or buy them pre bent?
thanks keith
thanks keith
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you buy the bent ones as a part number, Im not sure if Ford sells a whole kit for all the brake lines or not. Send me a PM when you get a price quote and ill see if i can get them for cheaper through a few friends that work at dealerships.
And J, normally you do the lines every 100-150k
And J, normally you do the lines every 100-150k
Thanks Patrick , sounds good.
I'm almost positive I've seen line kits in the past. Somewhere..
I have to see if I have the right flanging tool - I have the benders..
I don't think I have the brake line flange tool - I used this one for copper.
I think you need a special deal for brake lines .. I'll check it out.
I'm almost positive I've seen line kits in the past. Somewhere..
I have to see if I have the right flanging tool - I have the benders..
I don't think I have the brake line flange tool - I used this one for copper.
I think you need a special deal for brake lines .. I'll check it out.
anothter thing to remember. make sure you put your connections where you can get a wrench on them. autozone.advanced etc.. all sell preflared line. all you need is the connecting piece.of course the less connections the better.
Yea, Well, I haven't got to the brakes yet, I meant to say "Flaring tool" not "Flanging tool". I have the "RIGID" bender, pipe cutter and flaring tools. I'm not sure if that will work for brake lines - I purchased that set for copper applications awhile ago.
I just picked up a vacuum line tester/brake bleeder tool last night so that will help when it comes time.
I have to drop the tank and replace the EVAP vent and tube and thought it may be easier to do the lines while the tanks disconnected. It looks like my rear lines run to a brass block on the axle. The breather also is connected to the block.
If I make the lines , I figure I'll pull the old and copy it on the bench then install. - That sound right? Is that how you guys usually do this? Hers a pick of that connector on the axle -
I just picked up a vacuum line tester/brake bleeder tool last night so that will help when it comes time.
I have to drop the tank and replace the EVAP vent and tube and thought it may be easier to do the lines while the tanks disconnected. It looks like my rear lines run to a brass block on the axle. The breather also is connected to the block.
If I make the lines , I figure I'll pull the old and copy it on the bench then install. - That sound right? Is that how you guys usually do this? Hers a pick of that connector on the axle -
Originally Posted by BLUE20004X4
I dunno bro, seems like the master or a vacuum leak going to the booster maybe. The lines? probably not a big issue, but if they are rusted bad enough, maybe replace to prevent an issue later. I myself feel like it's coming in the booster/master area. No, I'm not a mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!
I picked a vacuum tester last night to test the EVAP system - did you know you can get a colored smoke tester over the counter? Thought that was neat, but I should be able to leak down test the lines/booster with the one I have.
I've read that there's a little adjustment behind the master cylinder that needs adjusting once they get allot of miles on them. You have to pull the master to adjust- I think? Not sure on that, but I'm replacing the master anyway, so I'll find out.
Originally Posted by torkum
If you end up making your own lines use wire coat hangers to mock the old lines. Buy plenty of stick because you will screw up on the first few bends. Don't forget the pipe cutting tool.
Been back to drawing board many times
- It eventually works out in the end. Yeah, Carquest has everthing I need as far as line X TheFoot..They have a machine shop in the back - been there many times, that's a nice place to have here in town- good people too - They delivered a starter to my front door when mine when out..

Thanx for the info on the hangers
hey jbrew you dont need to flare anything. autozone sell lengths preflared. 12/30/42/60 inch etc... just guestimate what u need. all u need is the flare connectors. that why i said make sure when you start planning your lenghts you can get a wrench on there when you go to install them. should be standard 3/16 line.



