are the rear brakes easy to replace? is it the same as replacing the front brakes?i imagine it's different because of the parking brake. what is the difference? it's on a 2003 screw, with 4 wheel discs.

 

The rear brakes are harder than the fronts. You have to screw the piston back in as opposed to pushing it in like on the fronts. There is a tool that makes the job go ALOT smoother. Harbor Freight & Auto Zone both sell it. Here is the link:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...EGRN%7C%7Etrue

Worth every bit of the $35.00

 

The rears to me are easy, or easier than the front. All you have to do is have someone turn your rotors, or replace them if they're rotten. To remove the old ones you have to remove the pad not on the piston first. Slide a flat tip screwdriver into the slots provided (2) and pry it up. Next, take a c clamp and push the piston into the sleeve using the old pad as a flat surface. I always clean all the contact points with a die grinder and wire brush attachment. Get all the rust and crap out and put anti sieze where ever the pad makes contacts to the caliper.

A few pointers:
-Put anti sieze on all contacts, piston and the outer pads steel clamps that clamp themselves onto the caliper. It's the side visible when assembled, otherwise squeeking happens.

-When reinstalling, pull the caliper bolt sleeves out of the way so the caliper and pads can be pushed on easy.

-When removing the caliper and rotor, look at the e brake, nows the time to fix or replace, especially the piece that swivels, make sure it moves proper.

-And put antisieze on the parts where the pad slides on. Don't get crazy with the antisieze and don't get any on the rotor or actual friction material, otherwise bad news bears.

I've done this a few times, bad pads were the reason (too hard of pad made for commercial vehicles) Ask away.

I don't know of this rented or purchased tool, a c clamp is all I use.

 

Mine has drums and they're a biotch!

 

thanks for the help. the local parts store mentioned a special tool that you had to purchase. to get the pads off. i'll use a c clamp, thanks.

 

The one pad as I mentioned opposite the piston side can be tricky. Once they're apart, look at it and there should be 2 spots where a flat tip screwdriver can go and pry them up a little each side till they're out. It's just time consuming, especially if the ebrakes won't release the rotor, back the adjuster off.

 

Sorry but the rear calipers are screw in, not push in like the front. NO WAY will a C Clamp get them to go back in.


Never used anti sieze and never had a problem with squeeking.


I would think 1 set of bad pads is believeable, however multiple sets of bad pads...I would have to say that is a bit out there. Either the tech (or wannabeTech) screwed up pads prior to the install, or just plain screwed up the job.

YOU CAN NOT USE A C CLAMP ON REAR CALIPERS DUE TO THE SELF ADJUSTING PARKING BRAKE. THE ONLY WAY TO COMPRESS THE REAR PISTON IS WITH THE TOOL ABOVE OR SOMETHING SIMILAR. PUSHING IT WITH A C-CLAMP WILL DAMAGE THE CALIPER.

 

Trust me guy, there were no special tools needed. The only thing I see screwing is backing off the e brake adjuster, but usually it comes off fairly easy. Putting the piston back with a c clamp is the way to go, never any damage here.

As far as antisieze, that's what I use. You can use whatever to dress these babies up, but it makes a difference. I've forgotten to antisieze the outer clamp, those steel tab like things on one of the pads and made all kinds of noise. Took them apart, antisiezed them and no probs.

As far as having a wannabe tech (myself) doing the jobs, no it was the pads boy. I made the mistake of buying the most expensive pads. They started squeeling like pigs after about 10 000 km's so because they're warrantied for life, I replaced. The replacements did the same thing so my parts guy said try the ones a step down. Installed, and never happier. Trust me, my father is a mechanic and teaches me so I know.

I really can't see what your hard on is with my c clamp advice. It's after all using the old pad to (park) the piston back into it's bore so new thicker pads can go on easier. Just step on the pedal a few times before you drive to seat it again. Just relax buddy, it's how I do things in an imperfect world!

 

i just replaced the rear brakes. it ook about five minutes each side! i didn't need any special tool they went in very easy with c clamp. i was told by the parts store some require the tool and some dont. thanks for the help.
car quest carries the tool for $20.00.

 

My friend did mine a couple of months ago and used nothing but basic hand tool and a c-clamp. No special tools required as far as I know.

 

Ya , thanks true blue for not calling me stupid, just a wannabe know nothing. Awesome Eaglesfan, easy weren't they.

 

they were very easy! thakns for the screw driver tip. i would have had a hard time figuring out how to get the pad out of the two holes .

 

Get your facts straight. You have obvisously never had your rear brakes apart.

E-brake is a small drum style on the inside of the rotor - they are not part of the disk brake caliper at all. Pistons on the rears are not screw in, they are push in just like the front. Personally, I use a big set of channel locks to get them back in. I just did mine about a month ago.

 

My friend whos a mechanic taught to use a real big flat head screw driver about 2 feet in length stick it in between rotor and pad thats on piston and pry it back in. Do this only if you are having your rotors recut or replaced and force the screw driver tip against pad and not the rotor. Ive done it this way and no problems.

 

If the parking brake is the style where it uses the the hat on the rotor as a drum, use your C clamp, channel locks, pry bar or what ever to compress the piston back in the caliper. If your caliper has the park brake cable attached to it then you need to turn the piston back in. I've never seen this style used on trucks, just on cars. They only problem I've had is backing off the e-brake to get the rotor off. As far as lube I use brake caliper slide grease.