Turning Rotors
Turning Rotors
It used to be common practice to turn rotors every time you changed brake pads to "brake the glaze" so your new pads would wear evenly. Is this still common practice? I was told by a dealership it wasn't nessary any more. What has changed?
I turn the rotors on every single brake job that goes through my shop, unles the customer specifically asked for it not to be done. The worst enemy of the brake system is heat. And massive heat builds up between the pad and the rotor, cuasing slight warpage and uneven wear. Turning them evens it out and keeps you from having brake shuddering. Dealers don't want to turn rotors for the time and labor purposes. Then they have to remove and cut, and they could be making money on something else while thats going on. They'd rather just wait till it shudders like hell and replace the rotors. Now, years ago when I did all my stuff at home and didn't ahve an available lathe, then I didn't turn them unless they shuddered thereafter and would take them somewhere and have them turned, usually for about $15. But all else being equal, and learning as much as I have since then, I wouldn't do a job without turning them. And, I have come to fully believe in the crossdrilled slotted rotors after using them. They aid in heat dissipation and vitually eliminate brake fade with good pads@!
In addition to what 98Navi says,
By cutting a new surface all run out is illiminated so there won't be any pusing vibration from warped rotors and an exposed surface will help the new pads break in with out over heating from the rotor glaze.
I'd ask to see the Ford Manual that says that turning rotors is not needed.
Thats a cop out and total BS.
On a personal note: I replace the rotors instead of turning them on my personal vehicles. By replacing the rotors, a new surface is maintained as well as having the maximum thickness in the rotor allowing for better cooling and longer life of the pads. I figure fronts every 50,000 miles and backs every 75,000 miles. Big deal the extra cost. Being 50 miles from town it is easier to install new than bring in my old to get turned, and cheaper in time.
By cutting a new surface all run out is illiminated so there won't be any pusing vibration from warped rotors and an exposed surface will help the new pads break in with out over heating from the rotor glaze.
I'd ask to see the Ford Manual that says that turning rotors is not needed.
Thats a cop out and total BS.
On a personal note: I replace the rotors instead of turning them on my personal vehicles. By replacing the rotors, a new surface is maintained as well as having the maximum thickness in the rotor allowing for better cooling and longer life of the pads. I figure fronts every 50,000 miles and backs every 75,000 miles. Big deal the extra cost. Being 50 miles from town it is easier to install new than bring in my old to get turned, and cheaper in time.
I think you'll find most shops would rather replace rotors than turn them these days. Why? One big difference is the availability of cheap repalcement rotors - generally made in China. Yes, these are brandy new rotors and mating a new rotor with a new pad is the best way to fly. The problem? Many of the less expensive (there are different grades of rotors) rotors don't seem to last too long. So you end up going back for yet another brake job. Shops seem to like that too for some reason.
I agree that mating new pads with a less than new surface is not a recipe for success - although it does work sometimes. I'd recommend either turning a decent rotor (if you don't go below minimum thickness) or replacing them with decent quality replacement rotors. By the way, if you replace the rotors, the job is also a whole lot simpler and cleaner - and you don't need a Brake Lathe!
I agree that mating new pads with a less than new surface is not a recipe for success - although it does work sometimes. I'd recommend either turning a decent rotor (if you don't go below minimum thickness) or replacing them with decent quality replacement rotors. By the way, if you replace the rotors, the job is also a whole lot simpler and cleaner - and you don't need a Brake Lathe!
It depends on who you ask. I've done brake jobs with and without turning rotors and they've all turned (ha) out fine. Ford says something like unless there's more than .003" lateral runout, when replacing pads under warranty rotor resurfacing isn't really required. Look at it on the flipside as well, when resurfacing rotors, you're taking more metal off the rotor, metal that could be used to dissipate heat. At work, I turn 'em regardless. On the side, whatever the customer wants to do. My personal stuff, depends on what kinda mood I'm in.
Quintin,
You are the man and I have to agree with you about the real world. I do some work for a friend of mine in the winter - working on his fleet of F-350 plow trucks. As you might guess, we absolutely eat brakes. Unless the rotors are badly warped, we just replace the pads. We even have a term for it. It's called "pad slapping" a truck. In fact, we don't ever turn rotors. As expensive as the big stuff is, we just replace them when they're worn out. We rarely have a warped rotor. Of course, we use the "good" rotors too.
You are the man and I have to agree with you about the real world. I do some work for a friend of mine in the winter - working on his fleet of F-350 plow trucks. As you might guess, we absolutely eat brakes. Unless the rotors are badly warped, we just replace the pads. We even have a term for it. It's called "pad slapping" a truck. In fact, we don't ever turn rotors. As expensive as the big stuff is, we just replace them when they're worn out. We rarely have a warped rotor. Of course, we use the "good" rotors too.



