Well my abs light has been on i've read everyones suggested fixes, all but replacing the speed sensor in the diff. or replacing the computer. my next 2 therorys are could the float device in the brake fluid be bad, and second any other suggestions. before or without spending 800 right now i've got the battery disconnected, hoping to reset the computer. its only RABS is there any way to get some sort of code, on a 2000 refering to the abs. without a scanner.

 

Kelsey-hayes RABS II reapir manual #DA-R-97
It's a little out dated but should work:

"Yellow light check:
When ignition switch returns to run position from the start position, yellow light should turn on for 2 seconds and then turn off. If yellow light turns back on but does not flash, check for stored trouble codes...........
Stored Trouble Codes:
Ensure ignition switch is in the run position (engine does noot need to be running). Locate Black test connector. Connector has 2 mating halves. One has a Black/Orange wire; other has a Red wire. Disconnect connector. Connect jumper wire to terminal with Black/Orange wire. Ground other end of jumper wire for 2 seconds. When ground curcuit is completed then broken, Yellow ABS warning light will flash trouble code. Code will repeat until ignition is turned off. Count all flashes short and long. The last flash is long, then it starts again. A code 16 indicates the system is operating properly."

Location of test connector:
Under far right side of instrument panel, Below right corner of glove box.

Let me know what code you get and I'll get you the corresponding step.

Good luck...........

PM or email me and I'll get back sooner

 

>
>give me the codes reasons for 8-10 its one of those. it flashes way to quick


Code 8:
Turn ignition off. Unplug electrohydraulic valve connector. measure resistance between Yellow/light Green wire and Black/White wire at valve. if resistance is less than 1 ohm, replace electrohydraulic valve. if resistance is one ohm or more, disconnect battery.
Unplug control module connector. Measure resistance between module connector pin #8 and ground, and pine #14 and ground. if resistance is 20,000 ohms or more, replace control module. If resistance is less than 20,000 ohms, repair short in Yellow/light green wire between valve and control module.

Code 9:
Turn ignition off. Unplug speed sensor connector, at sensor. Measure resistance between sensor pins. If resistance is 2500 ohms or more, replace sensor. If resistance is less than 2500 ohms, disconnect battery. Reconnect speed sensor connector. Unplug control module connector.
Measure resistance between module connector pin #3 and pin #10. If resistance is less than 2500 ohms, replace control module. If resistance is 2500 ohms or more, repair open in Light Green/Black wire or Red/Pink wire between speed sensor and control module. If wiring is defective, High Flex Wire (E6EB-14488-AA) MUST be used.

Code 10:
Turn ignition off. Unplug speed sensor conector at sensor. Measure resistance between sensor pins. If resistance is 1000 ohms or less, replace sensor. If resistance is more than 1000 ohms, disconnect battery. Unplug contol module connector.
Measure resistance between module connector pin #10 and ground. If resistance is less than 20,000 ohms, repair short in Red/Pink wire between speed sensor and control module. If wiring is defective, High Flex Wire (E6EB-14488-AA) MUST be used.
If resistance is 20,000 ohms or more, measure resistance between module connector pin #3 and pin #10. If resistance is 20,000 ohms or more, replace control module. If resistance is less than 20,000 ohms, repair short in the Light Green/Black wire or red/Pink wire between speed sensor and control module. If wiring is defective, High Flex Wire (E6EB-14488-AA) MUST be used.

I hope this solve it for you....

 

I have a real easy fix I did to my 92 Explorer one time

Pull the ABS bulb

 

I second that motion... I did that same thing to my 2000 F~150 and since you don't have it now you won't miss anything...except for a annoying yellow light.

 

Removing the bulb or fuse for the ABS sure is an easy way to make the light go off, but it is definately not a fix.

I bet if your insurance knew your ABS wasn't working and you got in an accident your insurance rates would go through the roof. Did you know your PCM stores all kinds of stuff like seatbelt use, maximum RPM, Maximum speed, sensor malfuntions?

These can be and are retrieved by insurance companies after an accident.

It's amazing that some one will own a newer vehicle that the manufacturer has to charge thousands more for to have an ABS system installed and people don't think it is a valid safety feature.

Those people should check out the statistics of the National Transportation Safety Board, and find out why it was made mandatory for auto manufacturer's to install these systems.

These are the same folks that made installing seat belts required and made crash testing mandatory.

 

I would suggest replacing the speed sensor. How many threads are there on here about people replacing that thing and the light going off. I know it worked for me. The part is like $20 at the dealership, and it takes five seconds to replace. $20 is pretty cheap compared to spending alot of time doing other things to fix it. Just my 2 cents.

 

Although I understand the concept of ABS, I personally feel that a car will stop faster and more efficiantly under a full lock slide, as long as the driver has the ability to control the vehicle. Yes, I know to some this sounds asenine, but after feeling both conditions on my 92 and 95 Explorers, I know that it would stop faster when the ABS was failing. Its all about driver experience and the ability of the driver to handle an extreme situation

 

On a clean dry road you migh be correct, but a wet, sandy or icy road you have no chance against an active ABS system. If you put emergency agressive steering into the equation with the emergency stop, the ABS system even on a clear dry road will win hands down again.
You just can't pulse the brakes that quick to regain traction.

Here's another one to try. Travelling at speed: 2 tires on the road, 2 on the dirt shoulder, agressively trying to stop. Without ABS you will be in the ditch. (try on a clear road with no one around but a tow truck)

 

Apparently you have the ability to rewrite the laws of physics?!!? Amazing!

The ONLY time a non-ABS vehicle will stop faster than an ABS vehicle is on a soft, loose road surface where a locked tire can push up a mount of road-surface in front of it.... sand and deep snow are the only two times. At ALL OTHER TIMES, an ABS-equipped vehicle will stop faster AND will maintain some amount of steering ability.

It's not possible to have ANY control of a skidding full-lock vehicle. If all four wheels are skidding, you're just along for the ride.

Threshold braking is a whole other story, and there's no way to accurately or consistently threshold brake a 4500lb SUV or 5500lb unloaded pickup.

[rant off]

As for the original post, the float in the reservoir has nothing whatsoever to do with the ABS. It's simply a level sensor that will illuminate the red BRAKE light on the dash.

-Joe

 

I agree that the ABS is the best way to stop the quickest. I meant my post as a joke only and as a "newly doned" officer of the law I fully agree that it is extremly hard to control a vehicle that is in a full lock slide. In the training that we patrol officers recieve you actually go through a phase in mandate where you are trained how to control a vehicle in a slide. This is done in a controlled environment on a wide open lot. There are still officers that have these same types of wrecks and they are trained as the general population is not. Anyway, the speed sensor did not fix my F~150, so I thought, but once my codes were cleared by a friend that's a mechanic my light went away too.

 

No, unfortunately I can't rewrite the laws of physics, however, anything can be bent. I completely beg to differ on everyone elses opinion here. I know for a fact in a 92 explorer 2wd that I could handle the brakes better than the abs, cause I tried it. Ran the same mile of road several times, half with abs and half without. My average stopping distance was something like 12-15 shorter without. (mind you this was years ago when I was a kid and did stupiid shiat like that) Now, I might have been ****ed sideways a little with out, but I wasn't like off the road.

As for the off the road with two wheels thing, well, after seeing so many teens die around here in 2004-2005 vehicles from running off the road, I don't think the best stability, anti roll, or braking technology can help a driver who can't control the car. I personally just drive on the shoulder if I run off the road until I just meander my way back onto the road.

 

No engineer can design a vehicle or systems on a vehicle that could completely stop an inexperienced driver from wrecking. I don't think it would matter what kind of vehicle they were driving, and having seen numerous wrecks in the law enforcement field, I can testify that older vehicles, such as the early 90's Exploder you referred to, usually have much higher rates of rollover. You say that you could control your vehicle in a skid but that was a controlled slide have you ever been in an uncontrollable slide? It can happen and then is when you need ABS.

 

Well again, as a kid doing stupid shiat, yeah, I did have a few unexpected slides. Only once did I ever not get stopped, and that one time (same exploder) I managed to turn the whole truck sideways trying to stop and bumped the car I was trying to avoid. I let it go sideways, figuring it would cause greater friction and a quicker stop. That was the one time I lost in a complete lockdown

 

Back to the topic at hand...turn the ignition switch on and short the diagnostic connector, located in the passenger's side kick panel to ground. This connector will have two ends connected together. Short only the black/orange end of the connector to ground, shorting the other end will probably blow the ABS fuse. Count out the flashes of the ABS light and get back to us; you've probably got a bad rear differential speed sensor, but I think it sucks to randomly throw parts at something and not fix it on the first shot.