How long before changing stock brake pads?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 39
From: Easton, Pa.
I bought an 02 Screw with 32k on it and the dealer had replaced the front pads.
Seems to be the average life from the replies here, is anywhere from 32 k up to 38k for the first time change on the fronts.
After driving the truck for 3k, I see that with the heavier weight and the 4r70w trans, that the engine brakeing is not that of older trucks with AOD and makes the use of brakes much more manditory because the truck seems to want to roll on after lifting the throttle.
Does anyone know if trans lockup is released when the throttle is lifted.
This would be one reason the truck rolls so easy making brake use much more.
In the older Bronco II and Rangers A4LD, the lock up does disengage with throttle lifitng and brake use by design.
Seems to be the average life from the replies here, is anywhere from 32 k up to 38k for the first time change on the fronts.
After driving the truck for 3k, I see that with the heavier weight and the 4r70w trans, that the engine brakeing is not that of older trucks with AOD and makes the use of brakes much more manditory because the truck seems to want to roll on after lifting the throttle.
Does anyone know if trans lockup is released when the throttle is lifted.
This would be one reason the truck rolls so easy making brake use much more.
In the older Bronco II and Rangers A4LD, the lock up does disengage with throttle lifitng and brake use by design.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, TX
During an oil change, the dealer said my brakes needed to be replaced ASAP. I have 30K on my 2001 Supercrew and tow a heavy boat and thought well its possible. Reading some of the posts on this forum even supported this conclusion. We had planned to change pads at the next service interval.
I changed all four wheels yesterday to Raybestos QS Ceramics. The OEM pads removed probably had another 20-30K miles left on them.
Me thinks the dealer was trying to make some extra $$$. Be careful they may be looking at you to get the $$$ they didn't get from me.
I changed all four wheels yesterday to Raybestos QS Ceramics. The OEM pads removed probably had another 20-30K miles left on them.
Me thinks the dealer was trying to make some extra $$$. Be careful they may be looking at you to get the $$$ they didn't get from me.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Sunny Southern California
Brake Job
I bought my first truck approx 6 months ago... I used to drive Mustangs solely until the birth of my Son. I sold the Mustang, and bought a 2001 SC... my question is... Can I do the brake job on the SC? or does it require that I take it into a certified mechanic?
I just want to replace the pads - I have 36K on the Truck at this time, and the brakes are squealing a bit... but not grinding.
I noticed that the calipers have counter-sunk bolts, unlike Mustangs...
Can anyone help with these questions... are there any special tools required? if so, what?
Also, can the calipers be compressed? or do the work via a worm gear?
If the only difference is the counter-sunk bolts - then I can get the job done... I just need to know the name of the special "socket" that fits the application... Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, as with the new-born boy - I have expenses, and I need to save as much $$$ as I can...
I just want to replace the pads - I have 36K on the Truck at this time, and the brakes are squealing a bit... but not grinding.
I noticed that the calipers have counter-sunk bolts, unlike Mustangs...
Can anyone help with these questions... are there any special tools required? if so, what?
Also, can the calipers be compressed? or do the work via a worm gear?
If the only difference is the counter-sunk bolts - then I can get the job done... I just need to know the name of the special "socket" that fits the application... Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, as with the new-born boy - I have expenses, and I need to save as much $$$ as I can...
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 2
From: Rochester, NY, USA
If you can do the brakes on a Mustang, you can do them on your F-150. No special tools are required - unless you count metric wrenches as "special." Retracting the pistons can be done with a simple C-Clamp. Actually, the brake job on mine was one of the easiest I've ever done, and I replaced rotors and pads.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Folsom, CA
Just had my front pads changed yesterday with 40k showing. Shop said that I might get 3-4k more out of them, but I swapped 'em out while I was getting routine service done. I tried to get that extra 3-4k out of my Explorer and ended up with wasted rotors. Swapping the pads was MUCH more wallet-friendly.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Originally posted by kcward
--snip
A word of caution, do not go to Midas! I made the mistake of having the fronts done there, with their lifetime pads. 2,000 miles later I was buying rotors.
---snip
Took my Chrysler minivan to Midas when breaks started squeelin. They said all four rotors had to be replaced, not enough left on them to turn and it'll be $850 with a lifetime warranty. I then took it to another shop who said there was plenty left to resurface on the rotors and couldn't believe someone had the gaul to state otherwise.
--snip
A word of caution, do not go to Midas! I made the mistake of having the fronts done there, with their lifetime pads. 2,000 miles later I was buying rotors.
---snip
Took my Chrysler minivan to Midas when breaks started squeelin. They said all four rotors had to be replaced, not enough left on them to turn and it'll be $850 with a lifetime warranty. I then took it to another shop who said there was plenty left to resurface on the rotors and couldn't believe someone had the gaul to state otherwise.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Just before approximately 70k miles, my '97 F150 4x4 stared shaking increadibly while breaking. At 72k I had the pads ($70/pair) and rotors ($168/pair) replaced with aftermarkets. There was not enough left to turn. So far at 85K they're doing fine knock on wood.
History: Lug Nut recall was done at 25K miles, replaced 17" Goodyears at 31K, rotated and aligned at 36k, 41k, 60k and 70K. It was before the 70k alignment that I'd noticed the shaking. The alignment guys, Just Tires, didn't seen any reason other than the rotors had some ware but still life in the pads. For what it's worth, JT hadn't heard, except maybe on a Jag, of any rotors warpping due to lug mistighting. However, I've since started checking them with a torque wrench. Both shops had put them right-on, in the middle of the spec range. So maybe at 60k I had bad luck.
History: Lug Nut recall was done at 25K miles, replaced 17" Goodyears at 31K, rotated and aligned at 36k, 41k, 60k and 70K. It was before the 70k alignment that I'd noticed the shaking. The alignment guys, Just Tires, didn't seen any reason other than the rotors had some ware but still life in the pads. For what it's worth, JT hadn't heard, except maybe on a Jag, of any rotors warpping due to lug mistighting. However, I've since started checking them with a torque wrench. Both shops had put them right-on, in the middle of the spec range. So maybe at 60k I had bad luck.