Yesterday, I replaced the front brake pads...easy...no problem.

Before I even attempt to open the bleeder valves, I give them all a shot of screwloose and let it soak in good...twice I did this. The fronts work no problem.

Now I'm ready to start bleeding the brakes at the RR brake bleeder valve. Evidently I torqued it with a bit too much force cuz the damn thing snapped off flush with the surrounding metal...and left me swearing a blue streak under the truck.

Now how do I get the rest of the valve out? Do I need to tap it and reverse thread it?

Is there another way to get around this thing and still bleed the brakes adequately?

I just bled the front two and everything seems to work fine. Do I really need to bleed the back two?

Help is, as always, greatly appreciated.

 

I did exactly the same thing on an old Audi several years ago. Unless you think that there is any reason to have air in the pipes associated with that wheel, you are probably OK - I know I was since I never fixed that broken bleeder and I kept that car for several more years before I replaced the rear brake cylinder, which of course gave me a new bleeder.

 

If they are'nt leaking any fluid leave them alone.

There is no need to bleed because of the brake job. Most likely you would have to replace that wheel cylinder or caliper because if it was tight enough to break off, then your hopes of extracting it with an easy-out are pretty slim.

 

I once broke off a bleeder valve on a 69 cougar caliper. I tried the easy-out. It broke off. Then I was stuck. I bought another caliper from a salvage yd. and made sure they loosened the bleed valve before I bought it.

You could try drilling it out. If you are careful it may work. I have drilled out bolts before with success. I started with a small bit and then went larger trying to drill as large a hole as I could without getting into the threads.