First brake job
I'm doing my first brake job on my 1998 F-150. I went to get the rotors off and I couldn't. Now I read a thread where he messed up the hub and bearings by beating the rotors off. How should I get the rotors off without damaging anything else? Also I was planning to put a good set of vented rotors and some good syramic pads does anyone have a good brand or type of rotors and pads that I should use???
4X4 's have slide off rotors. ( lots of threads about these rusting on to the hubs and needing persuation with a hammer.) 2X's are removed by removing the hub ( rotor and hub one piece) not sure if you have a 2 or four wheel drive so I hope this helps!
Yeah Its 4X4 and I have that haynes repair manual it said that the rotors just slide off but believe me they are full of it. I was going to just start beating on them but I just wanted to make sure that I didn't mess anything up via the hub or bearings. Thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it.
I haven't done it, yet, but there have been many posts saying to beat around the bolt circle towards the rotor and it will eventually loosen. Don't try to beat it off from behind, which seems like the logical approach, since if you tilt it, it will then be stuck permanently. Many have posted that they had to resort to cutting rotors off with a sawzall or cutting wheel. Also, I've seen posts of drilling holes around the bolt circle and getting some penetrating oil in there.
I have not seen anyone say how much beating (toward the rotor) it really takes. I'd like to hear how Ford techs get the rotors off.
Put antiseize on the new rotors.
Let us know the outcome.
I have not seen anyone say how much beating (toward the rotor) it really takes. I'd like to hear how Ford techs get the rotors off.
Put antiseize on the new rotors.
Let us know the outcome.
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Done it numerous times to many vehicles. How hard to hit and how many times depends strictly on how bad it's rusted on, use a metal head hammer and hit it flush. Start softly and gradually work up, don't just hit one spot, but alternate hitting all the spots between the lug bolts, it should pop right off.
I cannot stress this enough!! Do not try to hit the rotor from behind you will never get it off you will have to cut it off if you do.
Only hit it towards the truck and be sure not to smack one of the lugs or you will be replacing that too. You can also lightly tap the outer rim of the rotor all the away around to get the rust seal to pop. BUT do not hit it hard on the edge. Remember you are only trying to break the seal. Just like opening a brand new jar of pickles once the seal is broken it will come right off.
Ford techs use a BFH dead blow or a puller to get them off.
Only hit it towards the truck and be sure not to smack one of the lugs or you will be replacing that too. You can also lightly tap the outer rim of the rotor all the away around to get the rust seal to pop. BUT do not hit it hard on the edge. Remember you are only trying to break the seal. Just like opening a brand new jar of pickles once the seal is broken it will come right off.
Ford techs use a BFH dead blow or a puller to get them off.
I am a tech at a Ford dealer in Canada you will need heat and a hammer to get them off f-150 expedition same especially the earlier ones poor design. Mind you will have to replace them after. you can remove hub and rotor as one assembly and have them turned as a unit if you are planning to reuse them. I have done it this way a many times or you can have the dealer turn them using an on car brake lathe. use never seize on the new rotors and hub surface before installing.good luck.
LISTEN TO SILVER CREW!
Take a small propane torch and heat rotor all around reall nice and hot. Map gas is better and a acetalyene torch is the best.
Once you get it reall nice and hot smack the back of the rotor with a RUBBER mallet (aka dead blow). DO NOT USE A METAL HAMMER!!!!!
Since this is your first brake job take your time and do it right.
Some tips:
Use a big C clamp and a little pice of wood to compress the cylinder in the caliper. That little piece of wood is impotant to put between the cylinder and the clamp because its made out of ceramic and will crack if your not careful.
Make sure you put the pads in the right way too.
Make sure you dont mess the screamers up on the brake pads when your putting them in.
Use some (some not a lot) grease on the slide part of the caliper.
And like silvercrew said put never seze up on the hub so you dont have to go through this again.
Good luck bud!
Take a small propane torch and heat rotor all around reall nice and hot. Map gas is better and a acetalyene torch is the best.
Once you get it reall nice and hot smack the back of the rotor with a RUBBER mallet (aka dead blow). DO NOT USE A METAL HAMMER!!!!!
Since this is your first brake job take your time and do it right.
Some tips:
Use a big C clamp and a little pice of wood to compress the cylinder in the caliper. That little piece of wood is impotant to put between the cylinder and the clamp because its made out of ceramic and will crack if your not careful.
Make sure you put the pads in the right way too.
Make sure you dont mess the screamers up on the brake pads when your putting them in.
Use some (some not a lot) grease on the slide part of the caliper.
And like silvercrew said put never seze up on the hub so you dont have to go through this again.
Good luck bud!
Last edited by rclay11541; Feb 22, 2004 at 03:57 AM.
THANKS A BUNCH GUYS!!!! I used the heat and hammer technique and a little beating worked just fine. I used the vented rotors and syrmaic pads off of stylin concepts and noticed a big difference. Thanks to you all who replied I really really appreiciate your tips it helps a lot. thanks!!


