Eventually I would like to go with 35" tires and the lift to fit them. I really don't want to stay so skinny w/the stock 16x7's. I suppose I could go with 8" rims w/35x12.50's (but least possible w/35x15's)and still not effect the steering components, but... 10's would be so much more right.

So, if I go with 16x10's, is there a brand/company for wheels that tries to keep the same backspacing and weight on each side of the stud plates of the wheels as close to stock as not to punnish the steering components. I know you can order Welds w/special order backspacings. Would this be my solution. I figured, the reason for less/more backspacing was either fitment or wider stance.

I am just pulling a theory out of my butt; it being: keep equal space/weight on each side of the bolt pattern just as is on the stock 16x7's.

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1999 Red F150 4x4 5.4L XLT X-Cab
Towing Package
Corporate 9.75 Rear Axle, 3.55 Limited Slip
Corporate 8.8 Front Axle, 3.55 Open
K&N Generation II
Jet Chip
32x11.50 Super Swamper SSR
coming soon
Gibson Headers
40-Series Flomaster exhaust

 

I don't know quite how to answer your question, because I don't know a lot about wheel theory.

I ordered (and think I bought) correctly back-spaced American Racing 16x10 rims from a local dealer. With 285x75x16 Dueler MT's mounted, I can't tell if there is a positive or negative backspacing, but the wheels and tires *look* to be in an OEM configuration.

How can I tell if I'm "punishing" the steering components? Everything *seems* to handle fine. Weight-wise, these rims are lighter than the stock ORP rims.

Here we get to my real weakness--I don't know what it means when you say "...weight on each side of the stud plates of the wheels as close to stock ..."

 

Well, one of the ways to punnish the steering is having too much leverage on either side of the wheels (specifically each wheel. i.e. driverside/front wheel). I wish I could give you a true reason how I know this, but I'm not an educated enough mechanic to explain it correctly.

The effect of this havoc will come in the future. It's not cheap to fix at all. A true four wheeler (friend of mine) preaches not to do this (go too far beyond stock width rims), at least on daily drivers.

Maybe weight was a bad choice of description. I know aftermarket is almost always lighter. So overall weight is not the issue. Ballance? per side of the bolt pattern is more of my concern.

Does that help?

 

Check with DirtSlinger. I think he has some 16x10's. http://www.jasonshobbyshowcase.homes...asonsF150.html

He might be able to help you out?

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2001 Supercrew:White,XLT 4x4,5.4L,K&N Filter.
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photopoint.com


[This message has been edited by SurfinCowboy (edited 08-08-2000).]

 

Confusion reigns!

"...specifically each wheel. i.e. driverside/front wheel..." do you mean that somehow the LF wheel can exert more leverage against the rotor up front than the RF can?

"Ballance? per side of the bolt pattern is more of my concern." This statement completely befuddled me, sorry.

 

Red BullSr,
I'm sure you know this already, but please bear with me. I think most 16x10 wheels come with 4.5" of backspacing, which is -1" of offset, which moves the tires outward 1" from center. The stock wheels have 14mm of positive offset, which moves the tire in 9/16th". A 10" wide wheel would have to have around 5.5" of backspacing to have zero offset. You add about an inch to the inside width of a wheel to get the over all width, then get your backspacing & offset numbers from this number, (in this case 11").

No one makes a 16x10 wheel w/ 5.5" of backspacing for our trucks because it won't clear the calipers. The most backspacing for a 16x10 wheel that I know of is 5 1/16th" & thats a Prime Wheel 159.

I think you would have to at least a 17x10 wheel to get a zero offset & there's not many AT or MT tire options for a 17" wheel.The most backspacing I've found is 5.625" for an 18x9 AR Nitro.

One more thing, would someone please shoot me so the little voices will go away?

 

Red BullSr

Keeping as close as you can to stock is the best way to protect components. I will be changing tires and wheels in a month or so and I have been visiting all kind of tires and wheels sites. Almost all of them offer information on almost all the applications. There I learned about the measurements for the wheels and what I was looking for. For example go to: American Racing, Mickey Thompson, ULtra Wheels, Weld Wheels, Centerline, Eagle Alloys and many more. Take your time and study all you can. You will be doing a good purchase.

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98 4x4 Lariat SC 5.4L, 4 speed, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 LS in oxford white two tone, K&N Filtercharger, Stepshield door sill protectors and Performance Accesories 3" body lift.

 

lol! gofish

Oh well. I'm sorry I befuddled you. No, this is not what I meant, "Do you mean that somehow the LF wheel can exert more leverage against the rotor up front than the RF can?" I've never been good at English. Thank God I'm studying engineering... or maybe not. I don't even feel safe around me sometimes. Sorry I couldn't explain it better.

But I think d reyes helped me out. I suppose I was trying to turn an ant hill into a mountain. I'm awesome at dragging out the little things.

And no, I am not that educated w/backspacing. I've skimmed through the articles in each of my subscriptions to different mag's, but I'm too lazy to look at tech stuff (ironic). I like to look at dem pitchers. Anyway. I had hoped there was something overlooked (as far as the wheels) to continue steering comfort. There's no way I'm gonna go w/low-rider/dropped top/hoopty ride/low profile/spoked 18's. I'm from Texas. However, I am a little more at ease. Thanks.

JMTruck,

I'm familiar w/all the rim companys (as far as looks). If I'm not as limited as I hope, I'll go with Weld, MT Classic II, Bart or Eaton wheels. Thanks for the help. But I will look into their sites and not just their adds in the mag's.

SurfinCowboy

I'll also check with Dirtslinger.

 

Red BullSr and D Reyes,

Thanks guys! Red, it's okay. I figured out what you meant by leverage with D Reyes' post. The downside is that now D Reyes has got me wondering if I'm set up properly.

By the way, guys, what are the bad things that can happen structurally, if the offset is incorrect?

[This message has been edited by gofish (edited 08-09-2000).]

 

gofish,

If you have little or no tire rubbing, then you should be OK.

One more thing. If you do a spindle lift on a 2WD, the spindles move each wheel out 1" from stock. So if you have a spindle lift, a 16x10 (16.5x9.75) wheel with 4.5" backspacing, & a 12.50 wide tire (10" wide tread vs 7.5" for a 255/70R-16). The outer edge of the tread is sticking out 3 & 13/16" farther than stock. Might get a teeny bit of rubbing.

 

D Reyes,

Thanks for your quick response! I've been frettin' over this--wondering if I've made a $700 error. That's what you all meant by structural damage! I had to cut the mudflaps and the air dam just a little for clearance.

I thought by "structure", you all were talking about suspension or alignment parts.