The ends of the parking brake cables have come off the arms of the levers at the backside of the rear discs.
I purchased Chilton's manual recently, when I saw that these were off, I looked through this manual to figure out how to fix... nothing, nowhere does it say how to repair the parking brake.
So I went to remove the discs, to see what was wrong inside, but cannot figure out how they come off. Yes, I removed the calipers and thought that the rotors slide over the lug bolts, just like the front rotors, but noooo!
Can anyone be of assistance on this one?
Thank you in advance.
John

 

The rotors will rust on to the axle, give it a few whacks with a hammer on the rotor right between the lug nuts, this will break up the rust and cause the rotor to pop free.

 

Actually, there's a bit more to it than that. Yes, the rotors will sort of slip off just like the fronts after you remove the caliper, but the parking brake is actually a thin drum brake inside the rear rotors. (Yes, a drum wihin a rotor.) What's probably hanging you up is the shoes on the inside of the drum portion. I found that teasing them off just like a drum worked best. Good luck!

 

The other responses are right, but they will only get you so far. I just fixed this same problem on my truck this weekend. To get the rotor off, do as was suggested and back off the adjuster by removing the rubber plug on the back side and use a screwdriver. Then bang on the rotor with a rubber mallet until it pops free and wiggle it off.

Now you'll have to take the shoes out by removing the clips that hold them on, and unhooking the small spring at the bottom. The large one at the top can stay in place. There is a part that is supposed to pivot as the cable is pulled or released, and that is what the cable hooks to. One of mine was rusted and seized up even though I use the p-brake all the time. Just take it out and get it loosened up again, cleaning out the rust and stuff. I put some caliper grease on mine to prevent it from happening again. Reassemble, adjust the p-brake, and you are done. I hope. At least it worked like a champ for me.

 

Since his parking brake cables came off, I seriously doubt his shoes are hanging up, they're disengaged. Rotors rust onto the axles all the time.

 

I just had this experience today, 10 hours later and a MAPP gas torch purchase, I had the REAR brakes done. First the rotors were rusted to the axle, loads of Castle Thrust penetrating oil and hammering and heat got the rotors loose. I think cool, I will be done with this side finally, NOPE then comes the next step of getting the rotor past the Parking brake shoes.

ARRRRGGGHHH.

BTW, the metal they use in the parking brake adjuster is way too soft, lost some teeth with little effort.

I think I will take the rotors off when I put my summer wheels and tires on and replace the adjusters and really go through the parking brake stuff as the one side was hanging on me for no apparent reason. I had to back it out a lot to get it right, but I may have made it too snug after reassembly even though it spun freely before the test drive.

I got one rotor off without touching the adjuster and that side was ok. I guess the rule of thumb to just have slight rub on a drum brake doesn't apply to these parking brakes, give them space.

It was so pleasant to get the calipers off and pistons pushed in with no problem that if the rotors came off easy it would have been a half hour job per side if that. I hope the fronts are easier, and that the dealer mechanic that changed them out under warranty at 20K miles put some nevr-seez on them.

 

Beat the h@ll out of the rotors with a big plastic or rubber hammer.

 

I had the same problem getting the rotors off the back. They were rusted tight to the axel face. What I did was find two bolts and nuts that were the same threads as teh caliper bolts. Thread them in gently using plenty of lube and possibly a tap to clean out the threads ( mine were M8 x 1.25) so that they protrude out the other side. Then put the nuts on the bolts ( this is to keep from messing up the threads on the bolt. I used an old brake pad between the nut and the rotor. Then turn the bolts so they apply pressure on the rotor. Wack the rotor, loosen the bolts, rotate the rotor, and try again. Pretty soon it will crack and pop loose.