Rotor Price vs Quality
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
Well the rear's are drums and I hate drum brake so I guess that's why I have put it off as long as I have. The rears are supposed to be self adjusting but the self adjusting features rarely work 100% I know of on any car. They work by a star wheel and when you back up they are supposed to adjust tension and what not. You can pull the rubber plug out the back and adjust with a brake spoon. I'm not 100% sure on the exact plug to pull out and how to adjust, but that's not hard to figure out.
Actually I don't think I have the pedal feel I should, seems pretty soft until about half way down. Dad's 94 F150 and most cars with brakes I like you can move the pedal no more than 1/4 and have plenty of brakes. It should have air in the lines as I have never opened a bleeder, only the mater cylinder cap. I have also sucked out most of all the old brake fluid and replaced 2-3 times, so the fluid shouldn't be water logged.
My plan of action on the brakes when I get the time as much as I hate to. Is to pull the rear drums replace and clean what's needed (probably will throw on new shoes and hardware if any wear at all). Then I need to replace at leat one front rubber brake line. Then I will bleed at least that side if not all and see what happens then. Does this sound like it should take care of any brake problems I may have or do I need to go deeper? Any other ideas? Which should I get for rear shoes organic's or semi-mettalics?I heard one or the other should help stop the rear wheel lock up when wet problem.
Actually I don't think I have the pedal feel I should, seems pretty soft until about half way down. Dad's 94 F150 and most cars with brakes I like you can move the pedal no more than 1/4 and have plenty of brakes. It should have air in the lines as I have never opened a bleeder, only the mater cylinder cap. I have also sucked out most of all the old brake fluid and replaced 2-3 times, so the fluid shouldn't be water logged.
My plan of action on the brakes when I get the time as much as I hate to. Is to pull the rear drums replace and clean what's needed (probably will throw on new shoes and hardware if any wear at all). Then I need to replace at leat one front rubber brake line. Then I will bleed at least that side if not all and see what happens then. Does this sound like it should take care of any brake problems I may have or do I need to go deeper? Any other ideas? Which should I get for rear shoes organic's or semi-mettalics?I heard one or the other should help stop the rear wheel lock up when wet problem.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 9
From: Wisconsin
You have all the symptoms of braking with the front brakes mostly. I have a Plymouth Voyager. The brakes are adjusted when you use the emergency brake. The emergency brake was never used. The rear brakes went 88k and still were in good shape.
I started to ask questions and was told that they were not adjusting and not being used for braking. That explaned why the front brakes were wearing faster.
I'm a soft braker, and can go a long way on a set of pads, but 66k is almost too impressive.
I started to ask questions and was told that they were not adjusting and not being used for braking. That explaned why the front brakes were wearing faster.
I'm a soft braker, and can go a long way on a set of pads, but 66k is almost too impressive.
