The brakes on my '01 Screw are driving me nuts! (Purchased used in November w/39k). After just a few minutes of in-town driving, they start squeaking, and then start getting really loud (people turn & stare!). I've gone back to the dealership twice on this issue. The first time was the day after I took delivery. The tech said that the brakes were fine, with 40% in the front and 80% in the back. I didn't notice the squeaking any more so I thought their messing with them might have cleared some air in the linse or some such. Shortly after, I noticed the noise happening.

Last week I had the truck in for another reason, and asked them to take another look at the brakes. I described the symptoms. When the tech called me, he said that the rotors were heating up and that was causing them to squeak. He said that the rotors were fine and that the pads were still good. (30% and 80%). He asked if I was doing a lot of towing or heavy hauling. I told him I haven't towed a thing and the only thing that I've even had in the cargo box was a couple of sand bags. It struck me that he thought I was really overbraking, which was causing them to heat up and complain.

I don't abuse the brakes, but, since the truck is an automatic, its not like I can downshift to slow down. for the past several days, I have consciously tried to go very light on the brakes, but the noise develops after just a couple of stops.

This is a heavy truck and I'm starting to think it is underbraked. I'm past my factory warranty, and the extended warranty doesn't cover brakes. Next week I'm planning to get new pads put on the front (open to recommendations) and I hope this solves the problem. I really don't want to spend the money on aftermarket brakes if I don't have to.

Has anyone else run into these kinds of problems? Has Ford had problems with their truck brakes?

 

Welcome to F150 brakes. We have all been there. ford oem pads and rotors are crap. You can do better by buying oem brembos or powerslots from tirerack and get some lifetime warranty pads from kragen,autozone,napa or pep boyz.

 

i had a van that the calipers were lockin up causing heat and noise.toasted my hubcaps,among other things

 

Brakes are only covered under factory warranty up until 7500 miles, or so I was told. I've never had any problems with my SCrew yet, and I do a lot of towing. (Knock on wood)

 

I'm going to send you in the other direction on this one...before you throw away that remaining 30-40% of your pads, try this.

Go out and 'burnish' your brakes. Go make some 40-20 MPH snubs at a moderately high decel rate. Make a snub about every 1/4 mile or so until you've done 20 or so. You want to get those brakes good & hot.

Stop the truck & let everything cool down...at least an hour or so.

Then start driving your truck like you used to when it squealed and try to make it squeal again. Hopefully, you will find your problem is resolved!

Let us know how you make out.


Tom

 

DO NOT go out and BURNISH your brakes (key word being BURN) that is not what is needed, heating the brakes up like that only causes more glazing and damage and will make those rotors nice and slick which is not what you want. My Brakes have started doing the same thing awhile back and the rotors are glazed and the pads although still about 50% material left are simply gone. I do tow a boat however and have heated the braakes up even without trying during the summer going down hills even when trying my hardest not to use the brakes. Basically like Poolvibe said Ford Brake pads and Rotors suck. I have just purchased some Powerslot Rotors and some HAWK Performance Pads for the font of my truck and some Raybestos Superstop Shoes for the rear. If you are wanting to replace your pads and Rotors I would highly suggest you upgrade to the Powerslots,EBC slotted even BREMBO OEM rotors none of which are much more that the price of stock rotors anyway. In fact i just purchased a pair of the OEM BREMBO rotors for my wifes car and they were only 2.00 more per rotor than regular rotors.Go to www.tirerack.com they have great prices and if you go to www.mothers.com they have some nice articles on brakes if you would like to read up some info about them.

Richard D.

 

While Richard is certainly entitled to your opinion, I believe differently.

The brunishing of brakes is one of the procedures done to brakes before they're tested to meet FMVSS105 brake regulations. And they do a lot more snubs than I've suggested. They do not damage the brake rotors or pads. They are designed to be exposed to this procedure.

Brake pads are made up of a number of different types of particles which are 'glued' together by a phenolic resin. During braking, the heat created will melt some of this resin. It deposits some of this melted resin on the rotor. Subsequent applications re-melt the resin on the rotor and re-deposit it onto the pad. This exchange can occur many times. The 'glazing' Richard describes is this buildup of resin on the rotor.

Sometimes, due to certain operating conditions, you can generate an excess or deficiency of resin on either the pad or the rotor. This can manifest itself in several forms. It may cause a loss of performance, it may cause noise, etc, etc.

What we want to do in re-burnishing your brakes, is to try to normalize this distribution of resin. And we're going to accomplish that by the application of heat generated by braking. We're trying to get the brakes hotter than you normally run them to melt this resin to remove the old resin and deposit fresh resin on the pads & rotors.

Burnishing will not always resolve a noise issue, but it certainly does work with regularity, and does not harm either the rotor or the pad. It's your truck, your noise, and your choice.

Good luck with whatever you decide...

 

While 8MMAG is alos intitled to his opinion I am cutting and pasting an e-mail that i recieved From Powerslot Rotors and it say the exact oposite of what he just tried to explain......
( 1.) Yes drivers side is always LEFT.

2.) On the break in do this. Get the truck going up to 30-35 mph and make 15-20 very very slow stops. This will seat pads and rotors. Then try not to slam on the brakes for the next 300 miles. What we are trying to do is not over heat the pads. If you do the rinses will come to the top surface. They will cool there and harden. They will in turn polish the rotors. The rotors polish the pads. They will give off a loud squeaking sound. About the freeway exits, just slow down a little more before exiting. I have a question for you now. What color decal do you want?? WHITE, BLACK,
BLUE, SILVER, YELLOW and RED. If I can be of any more help please email again.

Thanks Bill Osman
Tech / Customer Service

-----Original Message-----)

There you have it you may decide which to go with based on the info that has been supplied.

Richard D.


T

 

I have 33,000 on my screw, I just, this week installed Brembo Rotors and EBC heavyduty SUV pads on the front. I may drive a little fast, so that can explain why the factory brakes were completely gone at 33K. I figured for 44 bucks a pop, why resurface my old rotors? The pads were on the expensive side, but if they wear better than cheaper pads, its a wash. I got ***** the rotors and the pads @ Tirerack.com

 

I'm afraid we're going to have to let MisterE decide what to do on his own.

But I guess the logic I'd use to decide if it were my truck and my noise might be

1. My brakes are already noisy
2. I have plenty of pad left
3. New pads cost $$
4. I already drive light on the brake pedal and the brakes are noisy.
5. Why not try something different to save money if it doesn't hurt anything.
6. I've got nothing to lose by burnishing, except my time.
7. If it works, I've saved some $$$ for other cool stuff I really want!


Tom

 

Richard D, the tech in your post said exactly what 8mm was saying, (except 8mm said to do a slightly higher speed). You need to break-in the brakes (burnish them). 8mm was just saying to try re-breaking-in the pads. All brakes need this process, here is a quote from the Brembo site:

*Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least 1/2 mile between each brake application.
* The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.
* After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.

To get rid of squeaky brakes, try lubing the slide areas for the caliper and you can also try ceramic brake pads and new rotors. Another member just did this and it got rid of his squeaking.
Good Luck,
Brian

 

To an extent yes but the key is to NOT over heat the rotors and pads to much which is what 8mmag's procedure will do. I have been having the same problem with noise and sqeal and tried exactly what 8MMag said to try figuring what the hell I already have a problem it will either help or stay the same . Well it got worse that is why I don't think it is a good idea. I just this mornig finally have replaced my rotors and pads with some Powerslot Rotors and HAWK HP Light Duty Truck Pads. Rear Drums still look new to my suprise .I will be replacing my wife's Rotors and pads on Thursday with the Brembo OEM rotors and The Prosatisfied pads all from Tirerack except the Powerslot rotors which i got at www.truckperformance.com about 10.00 each less in price per rotor.