AntiLoc Questions
#1
AntiLoc Questions
Hello Everyone!
First time here looks like a great place.
I have a couple of questions.
I have a 1999 F150 2x4 supercab with 4 wheel anti-loc disc breaks. I have done plenty of break jobs on standard disc breaks but never on an anti-loc system.
When I picked up the breaks (Wagner semi-metalic) the guy behind the counter told me to open the bleeder valve when compressing the pistons to prevent damage to the anti loc system.
He also said that since the parking break was part of the rear calliper and that a special tool was required to compress the piston. He letting me use one free however is there anythig I should be aware of?
The Hayne's book does not mention any of this.
Any suggestions/Guidence would be greatly appreciated.
Bors
First time here looks like a great place.
I have a couple of questions.
I have a 1999 F150 2x4 supercab with 4 wheel anti-loc disc breaks. I have done plenty of break jobs on standard disc breaks but never on an anti-loc system.
When I picked up the breaks (Wagner semi-metalic) the guy behind the counter told me to open the bleeder valve when compressing the pistons to prevent damage to the anti loc system.
He also said that since the parking break was part of the rear calliper and that a special tool was required to compress the piston. He letting me use one free however is there anythig I should be aware of?
The Hayne's book does not mention any of this.
Any suggestions/Guidence would be greatly appreciated.
Bors
#2
It's definitely important to open the bleeders when compressing the pistons front and rears. Yes you do need the special tool to crank the rear pistons back in. Get some high temp grease for the caliper slides....Bleed the brakes afterwards....can't think of anything else...
------------------
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
------------------
Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
#3
Thanks for the reply.
I changed them on monday. I attached a 8" hose to the bleeder valve and filled it with about 2" of clean break fluid. This prevented air from entering the system when I opened the bleeder valve. I did not need to bleed the breaks when I was done.
Also I bought the special tool for the rear breaks. I did not see a place to use it and the haynes book did not mention any special tool. So I just compressed the rear caliper with a C clamp and it worked just fine.
All in all the whole job was quite easy.
Bors
I changed them on monday. I attached a 8" hose to the bleeder valve and filled it with about 2" of clean break fluid. This prevented air from entering the system when I opened the bleeder valve. I did not need to bleed the breaks when I was done.
Also I bought the special tool for the rear breaks. I did not see a place to use it and the haynes book did not mention any special tool. So I just compressed the rear caliper with a C clamp and it worked just fine.
All in all the whole job was quite easy.
Bors