2 WARNINGS for the newbies on front brake changes
Here are some basic mistakes that I made during this first time front brake change.
WARNING 1
When and if you have to overhaul calipers. Make sure that you remove the anti-rattle clip before you blow out the pistons and seals. Reason: the clip is a sharp as a razor blade and will cut the seal no matter how carefully you think you'll be. Trust me, I tried, and after 2 repair kits (each costing $20 Canadian for a stupid rubber seal that is not much more than a black condom) the caliper was ok.
WARNING 2:
Anyone putting calipers back on should make sure that you use the proper torque settings when putting back bolts. I learned the hard way, and twisted the head right off of the bolt that fits onto the caliper slider pin. Off to the dealer again (no after market to be found) and get this, 50 bucks Canadian for two pins, two nutts, some high temp. grease, under the name of a repair kit.
WARNING 3. (not for the pro's)
If you tnink that it'll only take a few minutes, you're wrong. As a dude named Murphy told me about his laws, expect anything and everything to go wrong and you won't underestimate how much time you'll need. This way, you're significant other won't get pissed at you for ignoring her.
sorry for the long posting, but if I can't prevent even one person from these laime problems it's worth it
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Black 98 F150-XL, 2WD 4.6L 5spd., RegCab,
Short WB, Windsor Triton (slapless to date),
3.08 rear, Air, Rear Slider, Triton V8 Badges,
Duraliner Boxliner, K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Syntec,
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Blazer Neon-Blue Projector fog lights, custom look'n door cracks
Tinting: #4 RearCab & Bedcap Windows, #2 Cabside Windows
My Site
[This message has been edited by defacto (edited 04-19-2001).]
WARNING 1
When and if you have to overhaul calipers. Make sure that you remove the anti-rattle clip before you blow out the pistons and seals. Reason: the clip is a sharp as a razor blade and will cut the seal no matter how carefully you think you'll be. Trust me, I tried, and after 2 repair kits (each costing $20 Canadian for a stupid rubber seal that is not much more than a black condom) the caliper was ok.
WARNING 2:
Anyone putting calipers back on should make sure that you use the proper torque settings when putting back bolts. I learned the hard way, and twisted the head right off of the bolt that fits onto the caliper slider pin. Off to the dealer again (no after market to be found) and get this, 50 bucks Canadian for two pins, two nutts, some high temp. grease, under the name of a repair kit.
WARNING 3. (not for the pro's)
If you tnink that it'll only take a few minutes, you're wrong. As a dude named Murphy told me about his laws, expect anything and everything to go wrong and you won't underestimate how much time you'll need. This way, you're significant other won't get pissed at you for ignoring her.
sorry for the long posting, but if I can't prevent even one person from these laime problems it's worth it

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Black 98 F150-XL, 2WD 4.6L 5spd., RegCab,
Short WB, Windsor Triton (slapless to date),
3.08 rear, Air, Rear Slider, Triton V8 Badges,
Duraliner Boxliner, K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Syntec,
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Blazer Neon-Blue Projector fog lights, custom look'n door cracks
Tinting: #4 RearCab & Bedcap Windows, #2 Cabside Windows
My Site
[This message has been edited by defacto (edited 04-19-2001).]
I just replaced the front brakes(and rear last weekend) on mine and if you have an Advance Auto up there check with them the next time. I got the pins, clips, and 2 bolts for about $16 US.
But the whole brake job cost me about $300 because everything neded replaced!
Brake lines and all!
But the whole brake job cost me about $300 because everything neded replaced!

Brake lines and all!
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by defacto:
sorry for the long posting, but if I can't prevent even one person from these laime problems it's worth it
</font>
sorry for the long posting, but if I can't prevent even one person from these laime problems it's worth it

</font>
Just caught your post, thanks big time, I can see me doing the same thing! I could let "a trained monk**" do it but some of us still like to do it . . . !
Once again, many thanks for the info . . . !
Bob
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Gots: Gots: 2000 F-150, 4x4, SCab, XLT, Island Blue, Styleside, 157” Wheelbase, 5.4L EFI, 4-Speed Auto O/D, Class III Towing Package; AM/FM/CD; Dark Graphite 40/60 Cloth Seats (F/R); Rear Slider; 4 Wheel ABS; “Ex-Tang” Snapless Tonneau; Ford “Duraliner” Bedliner; “CDA” Paint Saver Pad; “Lund Runners” Truck Steps; “Husky” Splashguards; “Saddleman"Hood Protector; “WeatherTech” WeatherFlectors; 4th Brake Light (again!); “Pilot” Navigator 55 Watt Backup Lights (pair, under hitch); “K&N” FIPK; Lighted “Blue Oval” Logos – grill and tailgate, “Weather Tech” Floor Mats (retired for the summer);
Wants: “Gibson” Dual Sport Truck Cat-Back Exhaust System; “Exotic Wood” Steering Wheel & Dash Kit; “RoadMaster” Active Suspension; Remote Starter; Pilot Driving Lights; “Lund” Backdraft Tailgate Spoiler; “Superchip”…
u could pay the trained monkey now or later it doesnt matter but dont cry when you bring your car in a box on a tow truck and say pretty please put it back together !!!!!
just kidding but i do see these type of people all the time
just kidding but i do see these type of people all the time
fordtec2001:
Yes, we can all imagine how many of us 'idiots' you see on a daily basis, and how much fun all of you mechanics have laughing at us. And yes, you're right about us coming in a asking you to put things back together again from time to time. It ain't brain surgery anyway; the main reason us 'shade-tree' mechanics need tech's is because we can't afford the tools and machines to do it ourselves (believe me, if we could, we would.)Bottom line, I save so much money on doing 95% of the work on my own that I only need you tech's once in a while anyway. Also, since I save so much money doing it myself, I can afford your overpricing of parts and labour. So I, or some other whiner will probably see you tomorrow, and the next day, etc. etc. saying "pretty please"... Incidentally, most of us say "pretty please" 'cuz we've had so many screw ups from supposed 'ford specialists' and tech's that we ask nicely in hopes of getting what we asked for done propery.
Sorry about the long posting, but it burns my *** being laughed at by people who do things full-time, and then pat themselves on the back for being good at doing it. I'm sure a scathing flame/reply will probably follow this posting (perhaps not) but I've put in my 2 cents anway. I will continue to screw things up, learn how to fix'em and post what I learn here anyway (whether techies like it or not)
PHEW!
------------------
Black 98 F150-XL, 2WD 4.6L 5spd., RegCab,
Short WB, Slappin Windsor Triton,
3.08 rear, Air, Rear Slider, Triton V8 Badges,
Duraliner Boxliner, K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Syntec,
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Blazer Neon-Blue Projector fog lights, custom look'n door cracks
Tinting: #4 RearCab & Bedcap Windows, #2 Cabside Windows
My Site
Yes, we can all imagine how many of us 'idiots' you see on a daily basis, and how much fun all of you mechanics have laughing at us. And yes, you're right about us coming in a asking you to put things back together again from time to time. It ain't brain surgery anyway; the main reason us 'shade-tree' mechanics need tech's is because we can't afford the tools and machines to do it ourselves (believe me, if we could, we would.)Bottom line, I save so much money on doing 95% of the work on my own that I only need you tech's once in a while anyway. Also, since I save so much money doing it myself, I can afford your overpricing of parts and labour. So I, or some other whiner will probably see you tomorrow, and the next day, etc. etc. saying "pretty please"... Incidentally, most of us say "pretty please" 'cuz we've had so many screw ups from supposed 'ford specialists' and tech's that we ask nicely in hopes of getting what we asked for done propery.
Sorry about the long posting, but it burns my *** being laughed at by people who do things full-time, and then pat themselves on the back for being good at doing it. I'm sure a scathing flame/reply will probably follow this posting (perhaps not) but I've put in my 2 cents anway. I will continue to screw things up, learn how to fix'em and post what I learn here anyway (whether techies like it or not)
PHEW!

------------------
Black 98 F150-XL, 2WD 4.6L 5spd., RegCab,
Short WB, Slappin Windsor Triton,
3.08 rear, Air, Rear Slider, Triton V8 Badges,
Duraliner Boxliner, K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Syntec,
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Blazer Neon-Blue Projector fog lights, custom look'n door cracks
Tinting: #4 RearCab & Bedcap Windows, #2 Cabside Windows
My Site
A fw tips here for the DIY guys on brakes:
1. Get a haynes or chilton manual. You can check them out at most librarys. Then read it start to end on the brake job just so you know what you are getting into. If it looks over your head, drive it to someone else. If you tackle it yourself, get some sticky postit notes and put them on the pages with the torque settings.
2. Instead of rebuilding calipers, it is usually easier and cheaper to buy rebuilt units. usually, there are exceptions! check it out first for sure
3. instead of replacing stock parts, thing about upgrading them at the same time. Need new brake lines, go SS units! new pads, get some good ones, not just the cheapest one on the shelf. We are talking brakes here, so a little money spent may be the difference between and accident and stopping!
4. you pay up the a$$ to have someone else do the brake job for you! man, I cannot believe the prices! I do all the work on my motors myself. I totally agree about saving money by doing your own work. Only time my rigs go to the dealer is for a recall or AC work. Heck, once you learn how to do it, you can help all your friends out! $40 for new pads, shoes and fluid is pretty cheap compared to the $200+ per axle they charge for the same job. (yes I know you can get it cheaper, but we are talking about brakes here!)
A note to FordTec2001 here -- there are people that know more and do better work than dealer techs. So dont just put everyone down cause they dont have the ford authorized diploma.
1. Get a haynes or chilton manual. You can check them out at most librarys. Then read it start to end on the brake job just so you know what you are getting into. If it looks over your head, drive it to someone else. If you tackle it yourself, get some sticky postit notes and put them on the pages with the torque settings.
2. Instead of rebuilding calipers, it is usually easier and cheaper to buy rebuilt units. usually, there are exceptions! check it out first for sure
3. instead of replacing stock parts, thing about upgrading them at the same time. Need new brake lines, go SS units! new pads, get some good ones, not just the cheapest one on the shelf. We are talking brakes here, so a little money spent may be the difference between and accident and stopping!
4. you pay up the a$$ to have someone else do the brake job for you! man, I cannot believe the prices! I do all the work on my motors myself. I totally agree about saving money by doing your own work. Only time my rigs go to the dealer is for a recall or AC work. Heck, once you learn how to do it, you can help all your friends out! $40 for new pads, shoes and fluid is pretty cheap compared to the $200+ per axle they charge for the same job. (yes I know you can get it cheaper, but we are talking about brakes here!)
A note to FordTec2001 here -- there are people that know more and do better work than dealer techs. So dont just put everyone down cause they dont have the ford authorized diploma.
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May the big blue oval be looking down on you for this one fordtech,,,,,,,, good luck dude.
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1997 F-150 XLT 4.6 REGULAR CAB, FLARESIDE PACIFIC CLEARCOAT GREEN 5-SPEED. WESTIN NERF BARS, POWER EVERYTHING,BUG SHIELD, EX-TANG SOFT COVER, BED LINER(FORD).
Better 1/2 : 92 Red T-Bird.
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1997 F-150 XLT 4.6 REGULAR CAB, FLARESIDE PACIFIC CLEARCOAT GREEN 5-SPEED. WESTIN NERF BARS, POWER EVERYTHING,BUG SHIELD, EX-TANG SOFT COVER, BED LINER(FORD).
Better 1/2 : 92 Red T-Bird.


