I have been thinking about some custom rotors and I realized I don't know squat about rotors.Any help is appreciated

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2000 f150 4x4 sport,black, 3.55 5spd ,4.2 liters of fury ------mods----pioneer cd,alpine sub,cadence ultradrive amps,alpine mids&tweets,Delta tool box,class III reciever hitch,herculiner bed liner,taz floor mats,profile bug guard,custom painted tail light covers,headlight covers,cranked torsion bars,pirelli scorpion at(265/75 16), modified air box(crash1 style),JET air filter,blue cargo lights


www.lightningcrashz@hotmail.com

 

As far as I know the reason we get brake fade to begin with is heat, the next thing that happens is the brake pads start giving off a gas when they get real hot, that gas causes your pad and your rotor to have minimal contact. Hence brake fade. Two solutions, one give the gas somewhere to go, slotted. Two, give the gas somewhere to go and get some cooling capacity as well(cross drilled). The cooling capacity comes from having more surface area because of the holes all the way thru. Both give good wet braking but again I believe the cross drilled are a little better. I think summit has the cross drilled for about 80 bucks or so. I know if I ever need new rotors I'll be springing for the cross drilled.

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97 4X4 Flareside
4.6 5-Speed
Superchipped
ASP underdrives
Airaid
Dynamax headers
Borla Cat-back
Clear corners
5% Tint
285/75/16 BFG All terr.
16x8 AR Baha's
Rancho 9000's

Soon to come:
3" Perf. Acc. body lift
w/lift lips
315/75/16 BFG KO's
4000K bulbs

 

First of all the rotors ford put on your truck are the best ones to have there .
Just get a set of performance friction brake pads for it and you'll never have to buy another set of rotors as these pads will not remove metal from the rotors except for the initial polishing they do during breakin .Believe it or not slotted and cross drilled rotors do not improve your braking unless you are actually on a road course racing your truck .They just look cool to those who never had a set break or fail do to an improper manufacturing proccess . I had a 79 ford long van with a 351 windsor and ate up brake pads every three months untill I put on a set of performance friction pads .They lasted for 18 months but should last longer for normal people as I haul heavy loads all the time and drive a little faster than some .

 

Crossdrilled are for the racetrack. They can crack easily; especially cheap ones!

For the street, you will want the slotted rotors. They will help if you tow a lot for sure.

 

I would just like to hear some input on the reasoning behind you guys idea that cross drilled rotors are for the race track.

If the advantages seen were only at the race track why is that? Extreme braking causing excessive heating of the rotors? The whole reason for having cross drilled rotors is for cooling. Anyone who tows in the mountains can attest that if you tow anything with some weight around here your brakes get hot.

If the reason the race cars use them is for cooling why not use them if you can get a quality piece?

There are factory cars that are using cross drilled rotors. So there must be some advantages on the street, otherwise the car companies would not pay for them.

One more question leo351blue,
You evidently have had no problems with your rotors, unlike most people on the board. I have heard of many people cursing the ford rotors for warping and for wear. On eguy said he took his in to have them turned on his first pad change and they couldn't turn them, not enough material.
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000189.html

Sounds to me there are more than a few people looking for some aftermarket rotors.


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97 4X4 Flareside
4.6 5-Speed
Superchipped
ASP underdrives
Airaid
Dynamax headers
Borla Cat-back
Clear corners
5% Tint
285/75/16 BFG All terr.
16x8 AR Baha's
Rancho 9000's

Soon to come:
3" Perf. Acc. body lift
w/lift lips
315/75/16 BFG KO's
4000K bulbs

 

I am about to replace my rotors for the second time. I think I'm going for some slotted rotors,and performance friction pads.....Two rotor sets at 48k,,what junk!!

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98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Westin nerfs blk .powdercoat
Clear front corners
Euro tails(Altezza style)
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
Viper 500HF Security system
On the way/wheels,tires,air dam, etc..etc.......
doin the monochromatic boogie
on the front end.Billet grilles on order
www.my-f150.com Still want to lift it,YESSS!
FENDER GUITARS,ROCK!!!
http://www.bigsandy.net
officialtomwaits.com
reverendhortonheat.com

WOW,what a cool site!

 

i replaced my rotors after 10,000 miles on a brand new 1998 f150. i went to have them turned and they were too warpped to turn. after another 20,000 miles they needed it again.that was at 30,000 miles. i am now at 45,000 and again need new rotors.

if these things are the best out there then brakes suck and we dont need them on our vehicles.

i have never heard of anyone replacing rotors like we have had to on our fords.

i am thinking about installing a Brembo brake kit from stillen this time.

 

I too have been frustrated with our LOUSY brakes. I have 47K on my F150 and just did the second brake job. Neither due to pad wear, but rather to that annoying shudder while braking caused by the warped rotors!

I had the rotors turned both times and was told that this was their last machining. I called my local Ford dealer and they want $100 each! I have never had to replace rotors that hadn't been damaged by running through the pad, ever in over 20 years of driving! This is rediculous!

Does anyone know of an OEM replacement rotor that is slotted or cross-drilled, and possibly cadmium plated? I want to know all my options? Brembo's are not an option, they require a min 20" wheel, as the rotor is 17" diameter, not to mention their HIGH price!

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1998 Pacific Green 4x4 XLT, Xtra cab, Short bed, ORP, Willow Green interior, tinted windows, Superchip, K&N FIPK, Custom 3" aluminum tubing catback exhaust system with MagnaFlow Race Magnum muffler, Jacobs Electronics plug wires, Superior Transmissions Police Shift Kit, Eclipse Head Unit, Xtant 200W Amp, MB Quart 6.5", JL Audio 10" woofer, Alarm, and other goodies

 

I too have been frustrated with our LOUSY brakes. I have 47K on my F150 and just did the second brake job. Neither due to pad wear, but rather to that annoying shudder while braking caused by the warped rotors!

I had the rotors turned both times and was told that this was their last machining. I called my local Ford dealer and they want $100 each! I have never had to replace rotors that hadn't been damaged by running through the pad, ever in over 20 years of driving! This is rediculous!

Does anyone know of an OEM replacement rotor that is slotted or cross-drilled, and possibly cadmium plated? And by the way what is cad plating really suppossed to do for you, I've heard that it improves heat dissapation and makes the surface harder? Being a plating, wouldn't it just wear off?

I want to know all my options? Brembo's are not an option, they require a min 20" wheel, as the rotor is 17" diameter, not to mention their HIGH price!

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1998 Pacific Green 4x4 XLT, Xtra cab, Short bed, ORP, Willow Green interior, tinted windows, Superchip, K&N FIPK, Custom 3" aluminum tubing catback exhaust system with MagnaFlow Race Magnum muffler, Jacobs Electronics plug wires, Superior Transmissions Police Shift Kit, Eclipse Head Unit, Xtant 200W Amp, MB Quart 6.5", JL Audio 10" woofer, Alarm, and other goodies

 

what ford dealer charges $100 for each rotor.

i went to mine and i guess this guy is always wanting to make moay because he told me they were $250 each and the pads were $175

this isnt the first time the guy tried to overcharge me though.

i went to autozone oneday because i was changing my differential fluid.

they had it for like $4.00 a quart.

they didnt have the exact weight i needed.

i went to ford and told the guy i need 3 quarts of fluid and a bottle of additive for the limited slip.

he told me the synthetic was $100/qt and the regular was $65/ quart and the additive was $30 and the silicone seal for the cover was $48

thats the only thing i hate about fords is the dealers.

i need to replace me EGR valve but they charge about $5000 and hour labor.

its a bunch od BS.

 

When I was young and dumb (last month), I had a 97 GMC Yukon 4wd with cross drilled front disks (from Stillen). I would recommend them to anyone. In traffic, in the Texas heat, there was very little fade. I'm planning to go with Brembo 14" cross-drilled on all 4 corners sometime this year. But I've never heard of cracking or warping, unless through abuse.

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2001 S/Crew, Roush Stage 1 package (3" drop, 295x45x18 Comp/TA ZR on 9.5" chrome, Roush leather seats, and front airdam.)

 

WEll, I agree that this is a bunch of bull and from the info i have gathered this just isn't a ford problem and it is affecting most auto manufactures. It seems that due to current EPA regulations they are not allowed to use asbestos in the brake pads. Current pads cannot dissapate the heat as well without asbestos and so we are left with warped rotors! It seems until manufactures can find an alternative for this we are stuck paying for it. They will not give us cross drilled and slotted rotors due to trying to keep production costs down so we can afford these rigs. Get this Dodge will only cover warped rotors and pads up to 12 mo. or 12,000 miles becuase of the same problems they are having. So if you check your bumper to bumper warranties from the big three they will be similar. Even the foriegn market is eating rotors.
DRIVIN FAST AND BRAKIN HARD!!!so I pay the price.

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2001 F150, EXTCAB, LARIAT, WEDGEWOOD BLUE/ARIZONA BEIGE, 7700 PAYLOAD, 4R100, 5.4L, 3.73'S,

 

WOW!

I just bought two bottles of friction modifier for $12 including tax!