I hope i don't sound stupid,But i want to change my brake fluid how do i go about doing this?What are the do's and the don't's
I have alot of experiance with fixing and repairing my truck ,but never tackled the brakes yet.Oh i do not have ABS

Thanks for the help..


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97 f-150 XL 4.2L V6 standerd cab short bed 5 speed
-3 1/2 fabtech lift kit
-3 inch fabtech spindles
-rancho rs9000 shocks
-16X9 centerline trigons
-285/75R16 BFG's A/Ts
-Stockland tonneau cover
-Line-X Bedliner
-Bed rug Carpet Bed liner
-Clear corners
-Euro taillights
-Shaved tailgate
-Upper and lower billet grilles with a 4X4 bumper
-Doulbe limo tint and 20% on windsheild
-Eclipse 5504 HU with Audio control 4.1 EQ PPI power class 4100 amp and MB quart seperates
-a 12 inch cerwin-vega
-spilt 60/40 seat(came with a bench seat)
-Carpet(came with vinyl)
-Superchip
-K&N filter
-0ptima battery
-bosch platium 4's
-Stinger terminals wire etc.
-PIAA super whites
-super white blubs
-Straight Exhaust with gibson stanless tip
-Billet antenna
-Billet pedels
-Billet door stills
-Billet mirror
-Billet shift ****
-Westin Chrome nerf bars
-Royal Purple oil,trans,rear end.

 

Two-person job.

Engine off.

Guy with wrench gives the orders.

Scripted like this:

Mechanic yells "push on the brake"

Wife steps on pedal with 'stopping-in-garage' pressure

Mechanic opens bleeder valve (that has a clear plastic hose jammed on the rounded end of the bleeder and dipping down into a Coke bottle) 1/4 turn and waits for the wife to yell "it's on the floor", at which time...

Mechanic yells "hold it there" while he closes off the bleeder. He then yells "let it up"

Wife lets it up and yells "OK"

Mechanic yells "push it down" and repeats the exercise - being mindful that after a couple of these innings, the reservoir will be empty and the whole scenario will need to be repeated.

Ideal: Pedal should not be pushed all the way to the floor, as it allows the pistons in the master cylinder to move over new territory -- which, for newer vehicles is no problem, but for aged ones, might mean that corrosion or crud in the piston could result in a subsequent leak. Ideal pedal travel should be 1/2 way -- which is totally controlled by the guy with the wrench UNLESS it was so full of air as to allow the pedal to go to the floor without any hydraulic resistance.

Too much pressure on the pedal when bleeding the line will result in pushing the left/right cross valve (there's a name for it that has slipped my mind) to go off-center and favor one direction -- causing a brake light to remain on (which can be corrected by the similar scenario while bleeding the other side -- and closing off the bleeder when the light goes off.

In general -- if you're just changing fluid, use enough pressure to cause fluid to be pushed out -- but not enough to move the switch/valve.

 

Thank you y2k77004x4 for the help I have 19,000 miles and the truck is 3 years old and needs to have brake fluid change.The information you gave me really helps.

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97 f-150 XL 4.2L V6 standerd cab short bed 5 speed
-3 1/2 fabtech lift kit
-3 inch fabtech spindles
-rancho rs9000 shocks
-16X9 centerline trigons
-285/75R16 BFG's A/Ts
-Betterbuilt Black nerf bars
-Stockland tonneau cover
-Line-X Bedliner
-Bed rug Carpet Bed liner
-Clear corners
-Euro taillights
-Shaved tailgate
-Upper and lower billet grilles with a 4X4 bumper
-Doulbe limo tint and 20% on windsheild
-Eclipse 5504 HU with Audio control 4.1 EQ PPI power class 4100 amp and MB quart seperates
-a 12 inch cerwin-vega
-spilt 60/40 seat(came with a bench seat)
-Carpet(came with vinyl)
-Superchip
-K&N filter
-0ptima battery
-bosch platium 4's
-Stinger terminals wire etc.
-PIAA super whites
-super white blubs
-Straight Exhaust with gibson stanless tip
-Billet antenna
-Billet pedels
-Billet door stills
-Billet mirror
-Billet shift ****
-Royal Purple oil,trans,rear end.