Can anyone tell me the location of the O2 sensors, i.e. is bank 1 on the driver's side or passenger?

 

look straight down the pipe from the top side and you.ll see them....but seeing is easier than getting to them

 

Thanks, I know their locations but I need to know which one is which cuz I'm showing bank 1 sensor 2 as bad.

 

You may find that is it not the O2 sensor...

There are other things to check, if you get a code, beyond the reporting device.

With the addition of the second O2 sensor as beign bad, you coul dhave something else wrong with the closed loop operation fo the trruck.
These include ( and are just SWAGs, don't go looking at any of them yet without having the code ) MAFS connection, EGR ( depends if it was set after 1st time over 35 mph ), and the partenial favorite, VAC lines.

If you have the code, and post the number myself or another helpful memeber can list the items that Ford says to check if you get these.

Also If you want to, drop me an email via my profile, and I can email the whole DTC problem diag section of the Ford service manual in pdf format.

 

SSCULLY said it perfect! The code is not a diagnosis!! For instance if it is actually your 02 sensor WHAT caused it to fail?

keep us posted!

 

Thanks for the input guys...yes I know the code is not a diagnosis, but they are helpful in pinpointing a problem. In my case it turned out to be a leaking exhaust pipe right behind the sensor. Took it back to the shop and had them weld the connection. So far so good!

 

No Autozone here in my area.

'97 F-150 5.4 Regular Cab Step Side SB 4WD Auto

I just paid the local Ford guys $64.00 to tell me I had a "EEC tested found #12 O2 short in heater circuit needs O2 sensor". I asked for the code but they weaseled out of giving it to me somehow.

Job cost estimated at $250.00, (plus the $64.00 I'm already in).

How can I find out where this #12 O2 sensor is located and what it would take for me to replace it myself?

TIA

 

thdf

 

Sensor (12) is the cat monitor. It is located on the passenger side behind the cat convertor. All you need is a 7/8" wrench. It is fairly easy to get to.

 

Is it a 7/8" wrench or a 22 mm ?

I got the Flexhead O2 wrench in 22 mm, that is what the application listed for the F-150. Hope I don't have the wrong one.

As far as the code, tell the dealer you want to know the DTC number, you paid the daig fee, which in turn means you paid for the code number to be given to you. At least that is the way I see it.

They are pulling the normal trick of lack of info. If you replace the O2 sensor and it does not fix it, they will tell you that is the reporting device, not specifically the cause of the code ( even though you paid for a diagnoses, not a reporting device listing ).

With stuff like this going on daily, dealers wonder why they have the image that they do. Rather then trying to bleed every dime out of a customer, as the stereotype goes, the ones that pull this type of thing should try to treat the customer as they would want to be treated themselves ( but that might mean less revenue..short term ).

Good luck trying to pry the code out of the dealer and prying the O2 sensor out of the bung.

 

Well, I took it in this morning and had them change the sensor.

A pleasant surprise was that the bill was only $141.00, not the $250.00 they'd estimated. $73.89 for sensor P/N F85Z9G444BA and $56.00 labor plus tax and shop supplies. The receipt says; "Complaint: Install #12 o2 sensor diag previously". Correction: "Installed O2 sensor and retested OK".

If #12 is an "After-Cat" sensor it wouldn't be one with a heater circuit, would it? The original diagnosis said; "found #12 O2 short in heater circuit needs O2 sensor".

In any case, the light is out and I'm out $205.00. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll see if I can detect which sensor actually got changed.

 

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but all 4 are correctly called H02S. This is how they do the calculation. I think 3 of them are actually the same P/N on some years.

Take it out for 2 drive cycles constant speed over 48 MPH to complete the drive cycles, to make sure it does not come back on. If it does, get the credit for them fixing the wrong thing inthe first place.