Have been researching on here all-day and have a new found intrest in the WMS velocity tube for several reasons...

1) The cold air -vs- hot engine compartment air factor.

2)The fact that I can use the K&N filter I just purchaced with this setup.

3)The fact that I live on a dirt road and about a third of my driving is in dusty conditions and this setup also allows me to keep the filter concealed from these elements un-like the fipk's from the various other maufactures.

4)Price vs the others.

This being my case, I went to the WMS website to further check them out. The first thing I noticed was that the price has gone up to $113.00 from the $89.00 or so I had continously seen in the posts. I do realize that most of the posts I looked over originated back between 98 and 2000 so the "inflation" in the price dosnt bother me that much.
However my concern comes from the sometimes poor quality (welds) and missing parts (hoses and clamps) that were involved with these kits at that time. Has anyone purchaced and installed one of these on an 02 model 5.4 recently? How was the quality and was all the parts enclosed the first time? Has these last couple years allowed these folks the time to correct the prior glitches in mfg and installition previously expirenced? How have the results in performance been for you? Did you shell out the extra$ for the "ceramic coated" tube or just stick with the black one? I appricate any feedback on this product as I am seriously consitering it for my very first mod. (not counting the K&N filter). Thanks

 

I can't say anything about current quality, but when I bought mine in the fall of '00 I didn't have any quality issues. Mine is the black powdercoat finish, and look good in my truck. I would put it up against any of the more expensive ones as far as power gains, and put the money you saved towards a good exhaust system.

 

Thanks for the reply. Kinda figured after the research on here with dyno results that the VT would be just as good as the others. I hadnt thought about an ehaust just yet. What would you reccommend for a decent price? I am however looking into a superchip, hoping it will help firm up the shifts that fell more like a car than a truck. Your not running the "homemade ram air" with yout VT are you?
Gordon

 

i'm running the WMS ,,i love it ..i got it chromed and modded it to fit a JL air box....and yes i have the HOME DEPOT PERFORMANCE cold air ducting..! hehh hehh.....

 

I have one and have no issues with the quality.

Another plus for me is that it doesn't get plugged up with snow and ice like some FIPK type elements do.

Ian

 

I just used the piece of hose supplied with the kit. Never got around to doing anything else.

If you are looking for maximum power and not concerned with the racecar exhaust note, the I'd recommend the Gibson Sweptside. I put mine on at the same time I did the VT. I do a lot of highway driving, so I didn't want something that droned. The sweptside has a little more growl than stock, but a lot more power. I don't know what the latest and greatest system is, but this one has done me good.

 

I've had the Velocity Tube for ever a year. The only problem i had was that one of the rubber connectors hada crack in it, but the folks at wms racing were very helpful and sent out a new piece no questions asked!

Tony

 

1. Don't buy into the hot air cold air story, it is all Monkey Shine.
I say this from doing the actual testing and taking logs of open FIPK elements. The open element only yields about 5 deg hotter air then outside ambient air temp, using the trucks computer for taking the readings, while moving. Still have the AutoTap logs if someone wants them.
Take a look over the actual specs in this post :
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=85409

As for the dusty conditions, if you are all that concered with it, get the filter from JLP, with the outerwear cover. I have the outerweat cover on mine, b/c of the brake ducts running from the airdam to the filter, I can get bugs all over the filter, and this just makes a weekly clean of the filter easy.
Dust is dust, and it is going to get into the filter be it open or closed element.

As for getting Snow stuck in a open element FIPK, I have yet to have this problem, while we do not get the blistering snows of the north, or lake affect snow of NE IN, we can get quite a bit of snow in Chicago.

If you have snow packed on the filter, you got snow packed on the top of the engine, as well as everywhere else in the engine compartment.
An open element FIPK will not change the snow packed on top of your engine, which is another problem all together.

I currently have the ROUSHFAN-1 FIPK mod done to mine (non- chrome version ), but I actually used break duct, rather then the HD perf department air ducts

 

I think I want one of these WMS velocity tube systems. Anyway to open up the intake and keep dust out and get cooler air is what I want.

AZ - it's a dry heat! heh

 

ALL JUST A MATTER OF OPINION I GUESS.
(STATED W/O ACTALLY LOOKING AT YOUR DINO RESULTS)
I JUST HAVE A HARD TIME BELIVING THAT THE AIR BEING DRAWN INTO THE FILTER (AFTER IT IS SUCKED THRU THE HOTT RADIATOR AND IS BLOWN ACROSS THE FRONT THIRD OF THE HOT ENGINE ACCESSORIES) IS ONLY 5 DEG. HOTTER THAN THE OUTSIDE AIR TEMP. IN 20 DEG TEMPS I MIGHT BEGIN TO AGREE BUT IN THE MID AUGUST 105 DEG TEXAS SUN THERE ISNT ANY WAY. COOLER AIR (NO MATTER HOW MUCH COOLER) IS BETTER AIR; OR SO IM BEING TOLD. I DONT KNOW ALOT ON THE SNOW SUBJECT BEACUSE WE LEFT MAINE BEFORE I GOT A DRIVERS LICENCE BUT I HAVE A NEIGHBOR WHO SPENDS ROUGHLY THE SAME AMOUNT OF TIME IN THE DIRT AS I DO (WITH THE FILTER COVER) AND STILL HAS TO CLEAN THE THING EVERY WEEK, AND EVERY WEEK I HEAR ABOUT HOW HE REGRETS SELLING THE FACTORY INTAKE WHEN HE INSTALLED THE FPIK. LIKE ALL GOOD ARGUMENTS BOTH HAVE THEIR UPS AND DOWNS. IM RELIVED TO KNOW WMS IS SELLING A QUALITY PRODUCT AND ARE BACKING IT UP WITH QUALITY SERVICE. A LOST COMBINATION NOWADAYS!

 

I would highly recommend the WMS tube. I have the ceramic coated and the fit and finish is perfect. Installation was a snap and the colder air has to be a plus! I don't remember the price when I got it last spring, but the price on the web site is quoted in Canadian currency so you can email for the actual cost.

 

Does the WMS velocity tube system come with a K&N filter?

 

Testing done with Chicago summer, 104 Deg.
TX is not the only place that gets hot in the summer, top it off with humidity.

BTW : take off your caps lock, some might take that to be yelling.

Like I have always offered : drop me an email in my profile, and I will send you the AutoTap logs, that you can open with any copy of AutoTap and read them for yourself. These are direct from the truck's computer, i.e. what it uses to advance and retard the timming / amount of gas, based on the Mass of the Air Flow into the engine. ( the actual process and code, I wil not claim to know, b/c I don't ).

I don't do guesstimations, S.W.A.G.s, or S.O.P. dyno work and claim it to be best, I only reported what the truck saw.

Also if you read the thread, a perf vendor also found the same with the open vs closed element FIPKs.
He has the money, time and staff to test all, where I don't, so he has an opinion on the actual HP increase of each FIPK.

I did not comment on the HP increase, as I did not take a dyno pull with each FIPK.
Never claimed better HP with one over the other, only the IAT readings of the open element to ambient air temp.

If you want to not believe it, I'm good with that.
I can only report what my truck reported.
Got the data to back it up, unless I got the special built on a blue moon on the 5th tue of the month truck, where it runs like a monkey with it's butt on fire, regardless of what I do to it, with the built in A/C for the Intake ( wait maybe I have an L motor in there, and I don't know it, I'll have to go look again, don't recall the intercooler maybe it is under the battery box....no it's not there...maybe I'll see if that really is a trans cooler. )

 

The WMS V Tube is a replacement from the output of the MAFS connection in the stock airbox to the T/B.

The parts of the stock air intake that are re-used are:
- 2.5" fender well opening
- Stock air filter ( or drop in equivelant with the closed end on the filter )
- MAFS mount point in the airbox.

The only way to get more air into the intake is to increase the size of the fender opening with a sawz-all. I have read of others doing this, but it is not for me, and even with this, the lower flow rate on the closed end filter is there.

I found even with the K&N FIPK, that the flow rate is less with the end of the filter being closed. The JLP type has pleated filter material in the end of it, and opens up the flow rates in the MAFS.

Neil the HP freak has a FIPK that looks to be a K&N FIPK ( not 100% sure if it is K&N or another mfgr ) with a airfilter that looks to be like the type that JLP uses, with the pleats in the end of it, for better flow.

To be honest, any dust that is in air would make it into the fender well, and into the filter all the same.
The fender well offers very little filtering action for airborn dust. Some of it might fall out with the air turning over in the fender well, but I cannot see this being a great amount.
That is purely a SWAG, no data what so ever as I do not have dusty conditions to test this in to back up that, it is only a guesstimation. The info that I get this SWAG from is the service schedule for the truck. Under dusty conditions the filter needs to be changed more often, same as you would clean a open element more often.

This uses what ever is in the stock airbox.

 

hapynzap,

The K&N is extra. You would need to get the one to fit the factory airbox.