oxy sensor testing?
#1
#2
Hi Blue
As you probably know...lots of parts all working together to give mpg...so mpg can drop off due to old/worn parts. From simple as just a really dirty air filter/worn plugs etc. then the other not so simple.
I think its possible to test the oxy.sensor...suggest getting a repair manual for your truck. Haynes is a good starter.
So...if you are able to do the testing and understand what those tests mean...yes, could say alot of $$$.
Good luck...OT
As you probably know...lots of parts all working together to give mpg...so mpg can drop off due to old/worn parts. From simple as just a really dirty air filter/worn plugs etc. then the other not so simple.
I think its possible to test the oxy.sensor...suggest getting a repair manual for your truck. Haynes is a good starter.
So...if you are able to do the testing and understand what those tests mean...yes, could say alot of $$$.
Good luck...OT
#3
thanks, the truck is a 2000 4.6 5spd truck with roughly 60k on it, im getting about 13 to 15 thats with a 3.55 ring gear and 245/75/16 rubber. and never letting it see more than about 2200rpm before shifting. the k&n on the FIPK is pretty clean, and it has a new hooker aero chamber on it with 2.5" pipe. i am planning on dropping a new pcv valve in it, have run a few bottle of injector cleaner through it and am looking for anything else to help out. i know that this is better than a lot of guys are getting, but i have a buddy with a 4.6 auto truck that is getting 18 to 20 on a regular basis, so i know it can be done. im sure that it could use a set of plugs, im just not sure if i really want to mess with the COP ignition on one of these modular motors. and at around this milage the oxy sensors are bubble item, they might be going out, or might still be good. really didnt know it had that until after i was at the parts store the other day pricing a few things and the kid at the counter couldnt find a listing for the plug wires. when i started looking to see how involved the swap would be i figured out why. anyone able to tell me how involved changing the plugs is on a truck with the coil-on-plug ignition, it looks like the fuel rails will be in the way.
#4
A lot of F-150 owners remove the fuel rail when swapping the plugs (aswell as the PS resevoir.) As far as fuel milage, the numbers your reporting are pretty close to where the rest of us are at. 18-20 miles per gallon on a regular basis in the city sounds a little optimistic! I have always averaged out between 14 and 15 in the city in a regular cab 4.6 with the same gears you have. Usually get around 17-18 on the highway depending on how fast I'm crusing. My best milage to date was just under 20 on a roadtrip my dad took in my truck. (which might I add I've never even come close to!)
#5
well, thanks to having 2 drawers full of various extentions, swivels ratchets and so on, i got them changed out. did not have to remove anything but the power steering resivour bracket, although, for a man with extra large hands, it wasnt an easy task. change the plugs, and PCV, gonna give the k&n a recharge in the morning when i get home from work, and will see if just by chance auto zone got me the right fuel filter. probably flush the coolant too, got to love inheriting lots of due services on a used truck. the old plugs however were smoked. they were probably burned out about .025 out of spec. replaced them with the oem motorcraft plugs... yeah, i know milage in the high teens is optimistic, but i just traded off a 3.0 ranger, that although having 32's and 4.10s would get 22mpg and still light the rubber with nothing but throttle(well at least give em a good healthy long chirp) i just needed more room and towing ability, thats why i traded. it does now idle smoother after the plug change and seems to run a LITTLE better, so hopefully i might see 16-17ish on the next tank.