To make a long story short, i took my pickup to autozone, and they told me that i needed two new oxygen sensors, "number one and number two" they sent me the before and after cat version. now i don't know which side they go on, i tried to tell them there was 4 of them, and they said there were only two. so.. which two are one and two, the left side or the right side?? thanks in advance.

 

Blue

The O2 sensors that are generally replaced are the upstream sensors (the ones closest to the engine) I don't know how they are numbered. It is my understanding that the downstream O2 sensors just tell whether cats are present and working. Hope that helps a little.

 

well ***** that doesn't do me a damn bit of good now, i live 2 hours from the nearest auto zone, and now i've got one of each of the two different sensors, and you say i need the two pre-cat sensors. what a pain in the a$$...........

 

The only difference is one has a longer cable than the other. Atleast it was on my 98. What caused you to get new sensors. The codes would tell you bank one (pass.) bank two (driver) up stream or down stream (before and after cat.) Hope I was of some help.

 

which ones do i need to replace then.. if they told me that i needed to replace number one and two? all of them??cause that's gonna get expen$ive as hell.... dammit.

 

The rear's are actually HEGOs and you want to replace the front two. All the back ones care about is whether or not you have cats. Just replace the front two. I'm guessing they are thinking bank 1 and 2 which would just be each side (bank one being passenger side).

Seabass

 

The 2 front sensors (pre-cat) are oxygen sensors. The 2 after the cats are cat monitors.

I'm willing to bet the oxygen sensors won't correct your concern.
All Auto Zone is doing, is drumming up their parts business.

 

why don't you think it'll correct my concern? All i'm worried about is the check engine light, and some poorer MPG and performance. so........ lemme get this straight... both of the front sensors are the same, so i need to replace them, only difference is one has a longer wire on it?? thanks in advance.

 

First thing you want to figure out is why the check engine light is on. Try this link to find out what code you have.

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/dtcodes.htm

As for the O2 sensors. They're indentical except for the longer wiring. If you're going to replace them, then replace the two closest to the engine. They're the ones that usually go out first.

 

thanks a bunch guys. i'm going to replace the two front sensors and call it good, and hope i'm not still throwing a code. autozone told me that i had faulty oxygen sensors, so..... i guess that was what was causing the check engine light, thanks again.

 

OK, heres the deal. The passenger side is bank 1 and the driver side is bank 2. The sensors closest to the engine are the HEGO sensors (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen). The sensors to the rear are cat monitors. You would be wise to listen to what others here are telling you and stay away from AutoZones super techs. Pulling a code does not tell you that that part is bad. If you have HEGO codes, they can be caused by bad HEGO sensors, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure problems, MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow), exhaust leaks, PCM (Powertrain Control Module), or a wiring problem. Best thing to do is get it checked by someone who know what they are doing, it can save you money in the long run.

 

well sonuvabitch, i hope i didn't get screwed yet again.... damn fords, i swear, every time i get in the damn thing the check engine light is one. The next vehicle i buy will be a peterbilt or a freightliner...........

 

LOL, moving from a full-size to a king size, HUH

Reminds me of a joke
Old truckers never die... They just get a new Peterbilt.

 

I got ****ed once again, i replaced both O2 sensors, and what do you know, the check engine light is still on. So much for thinking Autozone was good, I just changed my mind, i just spent 100+ dollars on O2 sensors for NO reason, talk about pi$$ing me the F!#@ off... anybody have any brilliant suggestions, as it sounds, i'm prime for the taking....

 

battery,turn on ignition switch,lights,radio,etc...turn off everything...replace terminal to battery...now ecm is reset...take for EASY drive and let ecm relearn...check hose off pvc valve to back of throttle body at manifold...rotted?..replace...dude your headed for an ulcer.....ch.ch.ccchhiill