I'm trying to change out the plugs and wires on my 4.6 and am really starting to swear! The dealership said $456 to do it, I figured since I've been working on Fords for at least 14 years it's a snap. Well....they had to get rid of the 302 and use this rediculous 4.6 setup! Trouble is, I can't get the plug wires to come off of the plugs. They're stuck. I've been pulling on em and yanking on em and they just won't come off...what is the trick? I'm really pi$$ed off about this whole deal with the plugs being way down in the intake....at least I can still work on the mustang.....
Thanx
Matt


http://www.mattsmustang.com

 

Matt---You are right on several counts----the plug wires are a bear to change and the dealers are pirates. I just swapped mine for some lifetime guarantee 'Standard' brand plugs. It is a four hour project! Getting the old ones off took a pair of channel locks and a lot of brute force. I have heard of looping a piece of string around them and pulling hard(no kidding) Putting the new ones in is no treat either. They don't want to snap onto the plugs very easily. On top of that, two of my 'lifetime' replacement wires were bad out of the box. I may actually break down and buy motorcraft if these don't hold up for long. Good luck--The 4.6 is designed to build and sell, not to maintain.

 

YOur right, it's sure not like working on a 302, especially the old 73 302 in our Bronco. As for the plug boots it took my dad and me 2 1/2 hours and a lot of skin. The boots suction cup themselves in. Putting the wires back in took some work as well as the boots are beveled and have to sit in only one direction. Tip to the wise, use plenty of boot grease. How hard are the plugs to change, do need any special tools (thin wall sockets, flexible extensions)? The plugs look so hard to change I might sell the truck the next time I need them,JK, LOL.

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97 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed, 3.55LS rear axle, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests
Sylvania Cool Blue Bulbs, Ford logo hitch and license plate, tinted windows, blackouts front and rear(w/ford logos on front blackouts),ventvisors all around, painted logos on door sills and under hood, 55w backup lights, K&N Filter, custom 4x4 emblems, cup holder/LED mod, 99 F150 Triton V8 emblems, and much more to come

 

Thanx guys. I was starting to loose my cool out there! What a PITA! I'll try the trick with the string, I tried Channel Locks and a lot of yankin, but gave up cuz I thought I was gonna break something. Good thing I left the mustang street legal......

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98 Black XLT Supercab Flareside 4wd, 4.6 auto. Grey cloth interior....so far have only added an extang soft bed cover and Airaid intake system

1990 Mustang LX 5.0 Weekend racer
http://www.mattsmustang.com

 

The boots have a lip/edge part that is made to grab on to.

Be sure to TWIST the boot first! That will loosen it up from the side of the plug. Then just grab the boot and they come out.

I know that Ford likes to use the locktite on the assembly line, but the spark plugs and boots are not know to have any on them. the header bolts, oh yeah! Anyways, it is not as bad as everyone makes it sound. I can change the plugs and wires in 30 minutes now, first time took an hour.

Another tip, do NOT get any water down the spark plug holes! Make sure the new wires are on tight! otherwise water will make its way down to the bottom of the hole. then the engine warms up and pops the boots off the plug! PIA!

Just a heads up before spraying down the engine !

 

I haven't had too much trouble with the plug wires but how the heck am I supposed to get the $4 plug out??? The other 7 weren't too bad but I've lost a lot of skin and patience on that thing. Tried all sorts of extensions & elbow thingies to no avail...

#4 is the furthest one back on the passenger side.

Many thanks

 

I'm pretty sure the access to the plugs are the same for a 4.6 as they are for a 5.4 (PITA). I had a heck of a time getting that one out. Took over an hour. It sounds like you have tried all the extensions and such. I used a plug socket that has a swivel built into it. That gets it in the hole. Then I had an extension to get it above the head. I put on a separate swivel to this and attached several more extensions to get this out past the firewall. Then attached the rachet and tried to get this whole mess to line up as straight as possible and twist. I was having the most trouble with it all "binding" on the swivel. Once I was able to get this to a point where it would turn, the plug came out. Unbroken too. Install was the same. I made sure I seated the new plug first, so all I had to do to tighten it was just give it a firm twist.

Good luck. Not looking forward to doing this again. I put in the Bosch + 4's and not really impressed with them. I will go back to Motorcrafts next time.

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1997 F150 4x4 Off Road, SuperCab, Short Box, 5.4, Royal Blue/Silver, K&N, Gibson SS, LT265/75/16 Wild Country APT's

 

I feel for you matt. I changed the plugs in mine, they weren't bad, except of course #'s 4&8. Had a family friend change the wires. Those little clips holding the wires together gave me he!!. He works at a Ford dealership and I don't think there is anything I've asked him about these trucks that he hasn't known. Only charged me like $30 and it only took him about an hour to do it. Guess when you have done it so much, you get quicker at it. Get your minds outta the gutter<LOL>.

Good Luck

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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.

 

Glad I wasn't the only one having problems with this. I used channel locks and a block of wood for leverage. It worked pretty good getting the wires off. However, getting the rear plugs out was a bitch. On my stomach, on the motor, with every extension and knuckle I had. Did loose some skin as well. Getting the new ones in wasn't fun either. Using an extension mirror helped out alot. Make sure you seat the wires good and tight. I did not, and a couple of months later water worked it's way down there and caused problems. Cyclinders misfiring and plugs fouled. It cost me $300 + for diagnostics, new plugs again, and wires. I went with Motor Craft, the ones that came stock. Hope I dont have to go through that again.

 

Mitch--

That is exactly what I have also. The sparkplug socket with a swivel head. You have to have one of these to do the job. It makes it really easy.

FYI, if the dealer said $456 to do the job. I will do it at half price! plugs included! hehe

 

I used a 6" extension and plug socket to get to #4 with nothing else but maybe a smaller ratchet. There are a couple of hoses in the way but you can work around them. Using that the ratchet fits nicely in the indention in the firewall making it no problem to get the plug out. I saw on another board to use numerous swivels and extensions so tried that first but all I got was a binding mess that wouldn't even start to back it out. Once I saw I really didn't need all that it was a snap.