What exactly does it take to change the spark plugs on a 5.4L I know I have seen a bunch of stuff from the Lightning guys on how big a pain it is to change their plugs. But I have a normal 5.4L (well sort of, if you don't count my ATI S/C), and I need to change my plugs out. I have heard you need a bunch of extra extensions and swivels, is this true? Can I get along with a couple of extensions and swivels, and a spark plug socket. I was also wondering if there is any detailed instructions anywhere that I could read. Or if people would just like to give me advice/tips. I know that I am going to have fun with the drivers side. I am just hoping that I don't need to disassemble too much. I would rather not take off my fuel rail, but if I have to, then I guess I will figure it out. I just had to find out the hard way with a lot of things with my blower install, and would rather save myself a whole lot of time by asking people with experience. Thanks

-Matt

Oh, also going to change the T-stat while I am at it, so if anyone has anything good to input there, go ahead.

 

I changed my second set of plugs last week. It is a total pain. I have the 4.6, but I am pretty sure it is set up the same way. My first change was at 80,000 miles. The plug boots were melted to the plugs, very hard to get out. Get a boot puller. One plug wire came apart, I had to go get a new set of wires. Grease the inside of the boots and the porcelain part of the plug with dielectric grease, and brush anti-sieze compound on the threads. Buy quality plugs that will last a long time, as you don't want to do this any more often than you have to. Last week's change went a little smoother because I had greased the boots well last time. One boot did melt to a plug, and the last 5/8" of the boot ripped off, but the rest went fairly well. You will want to allow a lot of time to do this. I would start on a Saturday am, so you would have the whole weekend in case something goes wrong. plan on replacing the wires, too. I did not have to remove the fuel rail, but you will need to remove the intake air tube to change the wires. AS for the thermostat, that is an easy job. Drain about 2 gallons out of the radiator, remove the thingamabob that's mounted above the tstat housing, remove the tstat housing, replace the tstat and gasket, reassemble and fill the radiator. this only took about 25 minutes for me. several different extensions and swivels are required for the spark plugs, also. good luck!

 

I only have 16K on my truck, so hopefully they the coil packs will not have melted themselves to the plugs. I need to replace them though, I put in an S/C and the thing runs too hot sometimes. I overheated today, but I think that was the t-stat. I got NGK TR5's and a 180 stat. Hopefully that helps, and I also need to check my electric fans out, make sure that they are working okay. In any event, thanks though. I need as much input as possible. I saw that one guy said that he had to remove his drivers side fuel rail, and that the coil pack on the last plugs on both sides are tough to get out. I think he said that you can't get to the 7 mm bolt that holds them on. I will have to see. Everyone else, feel free to put in your input, I appreciate it.

-Matt

 

Hey Matt.

Have a 2000 F150 Lariat SCab 5.4L. It wasn't too bad, took me about 1.5 per side. I started with the passenger side and the rear most first. I did remove the fuel rail for easier access and it also gave me a change to clean/inspect the injectors. They were a bit grody. When I remove the 7mm bolt, I gave a slight twist and they came off pretty well for having 30k on them. One boot did come off and expose a spring core. I simply pushed the boot back on and it locked again. The plugs were tough. I can't imagine what it would be like to try and change these puppies at 100k. Use anti-seize on the threads and dielectric on the boot ends.

On the driver side, the rear plug was the hardest, and got easier working forward. Take it slow and you'll see it's not too hard at all. Even when you pull the rail on this side, there isn't much room to work.

Good Luck,

Al

 

I changed mine last weekend. Have plenty of extensions and universals. The plugs on the 5.4 are buried about 6" deep in the heads. I thought this job was a lot of work. If you are not experienced with engine work this is a tough job. You do have to remove the fuel rail on the driver's side to get the back 2 plugs. You can do the passenger side without removing the fuel rail. I am in total agreement about using anti-seize compound on the plugs and dielectric grease on the boots. Be very careful when taking the 7mm screws out of the coils, I'm afraid if you drop one it would disappear into Neverneverland in the engine. This job took me about 6-8 hours and I needed the help of a younger more flexible friend to reach the rear plugs. Good luck if you attempt it. BTW, my plugs had 67K on them and they looked great...I replaced mine with the stock Motorcraft plugs.

 

What all does it take to remove the fuel rail? Is it difficult? Also, do you need to remove any of the EGR? I think that I am going to try and do it this weekend, but I want to know what I am getting into. Thanks.

-Matt

 

I was looking at mine last night as well, and it seems to be quite a big job.. Looking forward to seeing additional experiences of others on this thread..

 

I went to change mine last weekend, 70,000 miles on them, and got to cylinder #2 and found that the coil boot was melted to the plug. I stopped (after pulling the plug and replacing it) and deciecded to pay the dealership $85 to change them all.

I did this not because it was going to be difficult, and it looked like it was going to be, but because I wanted to have all the coils to be tested due to the damaged one.

I do hope that someone here is gathering all this information and experience to put it into a "how to tech" article. That would definately help a lot of people.

 

What i wnat to know is why your plugs were in such horrible shape at only 30K. That seems a little rediculous.
Tony

 

HI!... My personal record for changing my plugs in my 5.4 is 37 minutes. I honestly don't see why everyone is having such a hard time changing them. It's quite straight forward to me.

 

Neal, I would like to personally designate you as the offical author of the "how to change your plugs" guide. If you can change yours in 37 min. then it should only take you 10 min. to write it all down.

seriously, take the time and clue us beginners in on the best process.

Thanks in advance and I will be sure to watch this tread.

 

If you only have 16,000 on your truck why would you even want to attempt to change them. My 1st set went to 73,000. just curious?

 

from Chuck's page

Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools

The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket. 1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing 7mm bolts.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet, (2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble.

By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job. It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.

Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs. Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.

I hope this helps. It's a lot more info than I had.

I have also heard that a 1/4 swivel 7mm from sears helps allot

 

I changed my 4.6 plugs last week at 87000km. It took me about 1.5 hours. I didnt take off any fuel rails. I was pretty easy but patience was a virtue! I found starting the plugs in the hole the most difficult since they seemed to be leaning towards the back of the engine and not staight down. Anyhow the proper socket( one that will hold the plug inside) is a must. I used 3 different length extensios and 1 universal joint adapter and the anti seize and dielectric grease when putting them back in. Pliers worked to remove the bolts. For the money I saved from not bringing it in to the dealer i bought my mercon v fluid for my tranny flush. Id do it again in a second.
In back yard handyman terms it was a 3 beer job!
good luck

 

TomatoTruck,

Thanks for the post!! Knowing exactly what tools I'll need to have on hand should make the entire process less stressfull..