I just did my first oil change on my 2001 V-6 at 4,500 miles. I'd like your reaction to 2 things I found that I didn't expect. 1) There was what appeared to be sand in the drain pan after I disposed of the old oil. And there were shiny metal shavings also. Core sand? Anyone else find metal shavings? 2) I poured in 6 quarts of Amsoil 5W20 and screwed on a new Amsoil oil filter. Started the engine, checked the oil pressure and checked for leaks. All A-OK. But when I checked the dipstick, it was only about 1/4 of the way about minimum on the way to maximum. What the heck is that all about? I double checked the owners manual. It says 6 quarts. I counted my empty bottles again and there were six of them. Should I pour in another quart? And what about that sand and those metal shavings?

 

Check your oil on a cold vehicle, on level ground. I would pour just enough oil in to take it to the full level when cold. This is how I do mine.

About the sand and metal, hmmmm never noticed when I have changed my oil. I would say if you can see the particles, they are too big to get past your filter and into your engine.

Don't worry a bit. Good Luck


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Yeah, don't bother checking your oil pressure gauge.....it's a waste of your time. The fake oil pressure gauge really gets me going! I can't believe this! Does every F-150 have a remote oil filter located by the driver side front tire? --Just wonderin--



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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC 4.6L Auto, Class III hitch, Pioneer Premiere deck, Boston speakers

 

Just talked with the Ford service guy. He said that particles that big couldn't get past the filter and that most probably the sand was road sand that came off the cross-member etc. I can buy into that. He also said that any metal shavings I could see also could not get past the filter and were a normal thing to see at first oil change. I can buy that also. He DID say that I should NOT use a non-Motorcraft oil filter until my warranty was up; that if the filter failed for some reason, Ford wouldn't honor the warranty and that I would have to go after the filter manufacturer. If I use a Motorcraft filter and it fails, no issue. I guess he is right; but I'm not too worried. I've never had a filter fail in 40 years of driving.

 

acadianbob

Oh, first, I don't even check the oil after I change it. I usually forget to now becasue I know what it'll read. 6 quarts is fine. At that level you OK. I have't seen an Amsoil filter but I belive it has a more capacity than most if not all so that's probably why it reads a little lower. I just changed mine and went from a Motorcraft (after dumping Fram; well I didn't know) to a Mobil 1 and the Mobil 1 has a little LESS capacity than the Motor craft. You could probably only add a half a quart at most to get it up to the high end of safe; either way you're probably fine. I'll add one more comment at the end.

Now on to the good stuff. I read all the time where people take the Moss-Magnuson Act way to far. Although I have a Superchip and have absolutly no concerns I would have a real hard time forcing a warranty claim if something happened say to the tranny or to some part of the engine that is effected by tuning. I believe any manufacture has every right to offer a product and warrant it only under conditions under which it offers the product; unreasonable or not. You change anything about the way their product performs at the time they offer it, you accept a certain risk. You're probably asking, what the heck does this have to do with an oil change and warranty.......

This is what it has to do with.....this case is exactly what the Moss-Magnuson Act was written for as I understand it.

The dealer/Ford can't void warranty because you don't have a dealer do to work, or use aftermarket replacment or service parts that DO meet their specs, like a filter or oil. Now if the filter DIDN'T meet or exceed Ford's specs, then yes, it would void the warranty in the case of a claim that was the result of the part. Now if you used an oil filter that didn't meet Ford's spec and your A/C went out, well obviously there's no connection therefore only a moron at a dealer would try to decline the claim on the A/C.

As long as the replacement service part(s) meet the manufactures specs and are properly installed, you're good, and even protected by Federal Law.

Now, that doesn't mean the dealer/Ford can't void the warranty because you didn't have them do it, or use Ford parts. I know that sounds confusing and you're thinking I'm either off my rocker or typing too fast but they can void or decline warranty if you use after market parts that DO meet their spec......as long as THEY provide the *parts* and *labor* FREE of charge for the service work.

Now, do you think Ford or any dealer will start doing all service related work 100% absolutly free? Nope. Some manufactures have though; but don't think you're not paying for it. Take BMW for example.

Now you're using Amsoil and Amsoil filters. Your treating your truck better so I wouldn't worry about any issues since you're exceeding what Ford specs.

Ok, here's my continued comment(s) on the 6 qt or add more question now that you've read the rest. If the filter (Amsoil) you replaced the Motorcraft with has much more capacity and 6 quarts isn't enough to fill it properly, you could have a problem. Let's say you install a new super capacity filter that holds 3 quarts of oil (I know, ridiculous but it makes a point) and you fill the truck with the reccommended 6 quarts and leave it. You drive it hard and end up spinning a couple of rod bearings, you're stuck with it and Ford has every right to wash their hands of it by not covering it under warranty or other. Now if a reputable after market parts manufacture made such a crazy filter like that, they would surely make sure that you knew you needed to increase the oil fill to 9 quarts or make it clear that when using their filter, you needed to add additional oil to compensate for the extra capacity. Then you're meeting spec and servicing properly so your fine with warranty

It's funny, many people post about the oil capacity and some always jump in and say "don't add more than 6 quarts" before they know if a different filter is used that may have a slightly different capacity. Many people use a Motorcraft filter still becasue it really is one of the best, just behind Amsoil, Mobil 1, Purolator-Pure One (I think those are the ones on top) so they use 6 quarts and it perfect. I'll bet if I check mine now, it's higher than normal snce the Mobil 1 looks to have a slightly lower capacity.

Sorry the post was soooo long. This always happens when I'm at home and make my own double Latte!!

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[This message has been edited by FamilyRide (edited 05-11-2001).]

 

Justinman,

I believe the remote oil filter is just on the 4.6 (maybe 5.4 also?) 4x4's. The reason for it is the front diff is where the oil filter is on the 2 wheel drives. It took me at least an hour to find the stupid thing my first oil change!!!!

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Ok so I'm slow, i've heared alot of people infer Fram is a bad filter. I have not heard anything about them, so what is wrong with them.

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If you cut open a bunch of filters, just looking at them you would see the Fram sucks. There's a page out there evaluating all the filters, someone prolly has a link.

I had no sand or shavings at my first change. The oil was a wierd color from all the assembly lubes, but there were no particles. I changed it around 500 miles.

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[This message has been edited by 2000 F150 4x4 (edited 05-11-2001).]

 

This is probably the oil filter comparison referred to above: http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

 

I use a drain plug that has a magnet on it -- and inspect it during every oil change for "fuzz".

I have been pleased with the very minute amount of "fuzz" which is collected during each lube inning -- and have used this method as an early warning for engine wear (of course, aluminum/brass from piston/bearing won't show up) for years.

Until this engine, I have not used the Mobil 1 filter -- and decided to use that brand only after reading the review referenced by someone above (some fellow did a physical inspection of several filter internals -- and posted a nice, but unscientific, photo review -- worthy of review).

The only time I have seen sand in the drain pan after draining is when I had not cleaned the crud off the outside of the oil pan (or other cross member that gets bathed during the operation like someone above mentioned).



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I think that the first oil change would probably be normal to have metal shavings in it, the engine wouldn't be worn down 100%, and it's probably the same oil that was in it the first thing at the factory, before the test on the truck and everything. I also use the drain plug with the magnet end on it, just to check for anything everytime I change my oil. I have always been very picky about oil, and I always use the Valvoline Fully Senthetic 10-W30 in my F150. Motorcraft and Valvoline are both made by Ashland Oil Company, and it's the exact same formula for each of them, just a different name on the bottle. Mobil 1 is also a great oil, but I prefer Valvoline to it. I'm not putting down other oils, I'm just saying what I like better. Check closesly the next time you change your oil, and if there is still anything in it, have it checked, but I wouldn't worry about the first time. Isn't it great with the filter being behind the front bumper where it is? If I had to pick a place, I couldn't find one better!

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Just a note on the odd color of the first oil changes: It's UV dye. During the assembly process when they fill the crankcase, they inject a UV dye in with it so that if you buy a truck and never change the oil in it, then come back to the dealership when it blows, they will know. After a couple of oil changes, it works its way out of the system. They can also use it if a new engine develops a leak while still new, after it's installed in the truck. Makes it easy to track down the source.

-Joe-


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