Rock,

They did download a program from Ford yesterday during troubleshooting. Does this mean that I no longer have "UAT2" as my engine code? I'm not sure if it was before or after finding the chip the computer was reading 3.0L V-6 Ranger.

 

The way to know for sure is to ask them if they "upgraded" or changed the program from the UAT2. They are suppose to put a new code sticker on if they do reflash your computer. It is not always done.


Rocks

 

Whoops!

I did not see the last post by Dudley.

 

Try to keep up here ironhorse...LOL. We have advanced to a whole new problem...


Rocks

 

I'll check tomorrow........I have to get my rear diff looked at> it's leaking!

If it has not been re-flashed. I'll pull the computer. Any caveats when pulling the wiring harness and bolt in the center? Also, will rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips be sufficent to remove any coating? I don't want to scrape if I don't have to!

 

One more thing. I do believe if they had tried to read the computer with the chip in place, they would have picked up an error code.

It is always best to remove the chip before you take it to the dealer. Chips in place seem to always cause a whole chitload of wrong diagnosis.

Rocks

 

Ironhorse,
How about you give the blow by blow on cleaning removing...you've done yours twice...LOL.
I only did mine once.LOL


Rocks

 

Careful ironhorse,

Are ya typing up the whole book?
Don't violate any copy right laws.


Rocks

 

I have the instructions. There just isn't much detail before the computer is out of truck. It's probably because its real easy but I just wanted to know if there are any caveats before the computer is out.

I guess that is why they say, "If you want it done right, do it yourself."

 

is your diff. leaking at the bolts located at the 9 o,clock posistion?...if so pull it and swab the end with some rtv and put it back in...seems that that and the three o,clock bolts run through to the case and the diff. fluid will meander down the threads of the bolts and leak out onto the cover

 

Rocks,

ha! ha! he, eh, eeeeh....

My brother- in-law has been giving my hel*, because I always bragg about how I have replaced engines and transmissions, etc. and now I can not even clean a plug-in correctly! ha!

Hey How did you know? I did want to write very detailed instructions, however, I could not find the original instructions anyway......

Dudley,

Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips will not be enough. You will need to scrape the coating off. Here is what I did:

1. Engine is turned off and key is out of ignition.

2. Turn lights on.

3. Removed both positive and negative battery cables.

4. Remove battery. (Not required but it helps.)

5. Remove battery box. (Not required but it helps.)

6. unbolt wiring harness plug-in from computer box plug-in.

7. Go around to passenger side of truck and "un-snap" door jamb molding.

8. "Un-snap" side panel under glovebox near door.

9. "un-snap" clip that holds superchip in computer box

10. "Un-snap" computer box from brackets.

11. Un-plug the chip from computer box.

12. un-screw the two little screws on each side of computer box.

13. Take a bright light and magnifying glass and look at the computer board plug-in.

14. You have 15 thin short line contacts on each side of the plug-in for a total of 30 contacts.

15. The Coating is transparent in most areas and looks like a doughnut glaze (ha!) in some parts of the contact.

16. Use a scraping tool that is extremely sharp like a box knife blade and lightly begin to scrape the contact points, in between the contact points, the edges of the computer board plug-in. DO NOT scrape behind the contact points where all the little electronic gizmozs are located.

17. If you are scraping it correctly, you should see little flakes of "glaze" coming off. DO NOT scrape down to the "copper". Supposely it is okay to see a little "copper", but not very much at all. Scrape all 30 contacts and all areas as mentioned. Scrape a little bit, then put some rubbing alcohol on a Q-Tip and rub down the plug-in area. Then look under the light/magnifying glass for ANY traces of the Coating. Perform this routine until ALL coating is gone from the plug-in area. When you are finished, make sure the plug-in is dry of rubbing alcohol. Be very patient and meticulous.

18. When you are finished cleaning and after you have bolted the computer box together, and have "plugged in" the chip to the computer box, it does not hurt to put some tape over the superchip and upagainst the sides of the computer box (so it does not come loose if you hit a bump.

19. The re-installation is reverse order. I would make sure that it has been at least an hour before I reconnect the battery and if you have cleaned the plug-in properly, it will be! ha!

20. Do as I say not as I do. (Not required but it helps......... ha!)

21. Still confused, contact Mike Troyer in computer chips section.

 

Thanks iron horse.
I think your instructions made up for what was missing. Hopefully they did not re-flash the PCM and I'll be able to re-stall per your directions. Thanks for your time and patience.

Thanks Rocks for your input also!