Amsoil makes an engine flush that will clean sludge varnish etc. They also have a product PI (Performance Improver) gasoline additive. Pi will clean the injectors, remove carbon deposits and basically clean every place that fuel flow and conbustion takes place including the valves. I have used Amsoil products for the past 5 years and swear by them. They tend to be pricey but I feel its worth the extra $. Also, a little tip, if you purchase your own Amsoil dealership (Ithink its around $20 a year, but don't quote me on that) you can by the products at dealer cost. You will cover that cost in one oil change. Just my .02

 

I'm with everyone else on NOT using any additives in the oil of a good running vehicle. (I have used Marvel Mystery oil in a car with almost 300,000 miles on the original motor b/c there was a knocking in the motor, so I figured I couldn't hurt it and the knocking quit, but rebuilt it about 30K later and talk about sludge build-up--from the Mystery oil.)
I feel if you use "dino oil", just change it and the filter every 3K, and you'll be alright.
As for a suggestion on synthetics, MOBIL-1 all the way!! I run it in my boat and motorcycle and never a problem. Everything alse gets Mobil Drive Clean or Valvoline All climate.

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1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.

 

Keep in mind that teflon sheds oil and therefore the teflon treated parts in your engine will shed oil, not a good thing. It has been proven to shed oil on camshafts and therefore cause early wear problems. Teflon can improve HP and this is what many people claim is less friction and hence less engine wear, HMMMMMM, maybe there is less oil friction. Nothing could be further from the truth, teflon increases wear on oil starved parts.

Chris

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98 SC 4.6L stepside, Gibson headers, Gibson single exhaust, superchip, Intake mods, Piaa's, high end audio stuff.

 

I believe that Duralube contains clorine bases in it, which when mixed with heat and moisture makes hydrocloric acid. In time this will eat the inside of your engine and cause damage.

Actually they used to put clorine in oil in the 1930's but they discover the acid and quit. I belive they used like less than 5% concentration. The duralube contains like 30% or something like that.

I would stay away from it myself.


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It takes over 800 degree to bond teflon to metal. I don't think that your engine will ever see those temps.

So what happens is the teflon goes to your filter and you throw it away when you change your oil next time.

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Chlorine was used as a degreaser. There was nothing like the chlorinated solvents to clean an engine. They are not used anymore. Today, we call solvents like that hazardous waste. In SC, it only takes 3000ppm to be declared hazardous waste(at 1000ppm, research has to be done as to why the levels are so high before the waste can be disposed of). You have heard that PCBs are so bad, what do you think the "C" stands for?
If you really want to get scientific, chlorine bonds to hydrogen are stronger than oxygen's bond to hydrogen. Basically, hydrogen will come out of water (H2O) and bond to form HCl, or hydrochloric acid.