Not getting fuel

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Old Mar 14, 2001 | 12:09 AM
  #1  
Jen's Avatar
Jen
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From: Camdenton, Missouri, USA
Question Not getting fuel

I have a 1986 F150 4x4 - 302, I have never had a problem with this truck starting. It is fuel injected. Everyone said I needed a new fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump in the gas tank, and still she won't start. The truck acts like it is going to start, but it won't. I'm lost! I am doing all the work myself (I'm a girl) so if you could please answer me in terms I could understand, I would love you all forever.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2001 | 12:43 AM
  #2  
Neal's Avatar
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From: WINDSOR, ONTARIO, CANADA
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HI!.... JEN : Have you checked to make sure your fuel filter is'nt plugged up? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Hope this helps you out.

------------------
NEAL " THE H.P FREAK" E-MAIL :nnewman@sympatico.ca
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS.


FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, CUSTOM SUPERCHIP FLIP-CHIP, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, SHM "RACE WATER PUMP, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150, LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 330H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.53E.T * MPH - 93.00 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc

[This message has been edited by Neal (edited 03-14-2001).]
 
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Old Mar 14, 2001 | 12:50 AM
  #3  
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From: Whidbey Island, WA
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I had a 90 Bronco 351 EFI, about 3 years ago the fuel pressure regulator failed. It was causing the fuel rail to be over-pressured and forcing fuel through the injectors, even when they were closed. While I was talking to the tech, he mentioned that the regulators also cause an under-pressure condition, not supplying enough fuel to run, but just enough to fire occasionally.
You can check to see if your fuel rail has pressure by turning the ignition to run. Locate on the top of the engine, drivers side fuel rail, towards the front you will see a schrader valve (looks like a valve stem on a tire) with a cap on it. Remove the cap, take a small screwdriver with a rag rapped around it (to catch fuel) and depress the center pin in the valve. Be very, very careful, fuel is nothing to mess with. (If you happen to know someone who has a fuel pressure gauge to install on the valve, that would be the best way to do it) If the fuel does not "spray" out, you have no pressure and most likely (since you've already replaced the pump) need to replace the regulator.
The regulator is located on that same side of the motor, on the fuel rail almost all the way to the rear of the motor. It is round, about 4 inches across, sort of a gold color, and has a vacuum hose connected at one end.
To replace the regulator you will need to make sure all the pressure is out of the fuel lines. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector, remove the gas cap, and crank on the engine for about 10 seconds. Disconnect the Neg. (-) battery terminal. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator, and take out the 3 screws. Remove the regulator, there will also be a gasket and an O-ring. Make sure you get a new gasket and you will also likely need a new O-ring. Replace everything in the opposite order.
After all the steps are complete, turn the key on and off several times without starting the engine, and check for leaks.
I hope this helps you out, good luck.


[This message has been edited by whitestx (edited 03-14-2001).]
 
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Old Mar 14, 2001 | 06:07 PM
  #4  
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From: Pa
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Hi
Can you smell gas when you try to start it? Do you hear a buzz under the truck when you turn the key to where the heater fan runs? It will only buzz a few seconds each time you turn on the key. I had an 85 do that when the timing chain jumped a tooth. If you can't smell gas or hear a buzz, it might be an easy fix.

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97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-Airraid-Perma-cool electric fan & controller
 
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