So I got the electric fan installed in the F150. This fan was from a 96 crown Vic police car, but I am sure it is the same as the standard unit. Only has one speed, and it flows some serious air! The blades are curved, so that improves airflow.

It is about 17" in diameter and mount inside the stock fan shroud. I did the same thing on the mustang with a Fiero fan since the shrouds are fiberglass and it will help pull air from the whole radiator vs directly on the radiator.

I used a Hayden electic fan controller. Same unit on the stang that has variable temp setting and AC override. Works well on the stang, but that fan does not pull the same power as this CrownVic unit! I have heard they pull some amps at startup and they do! dims the lights a bit for a second, but once running they recover. Good thing for the 3g in the F150.

So it is too cold to tune the temp part right now, but when you turn it on with the AC, WHOA! It pulls some serious air! It is cooling the motor directly almost more than thru the radiator!

So if anyone is looking for a good electic fan, the Crown Vics or the Lincoln Mark8 fans are the way to go! BTW, I got the fan used with a 30 day warrant for $45 at the yard. You can get new Mark 8 fans for $99 from Houston performance.

I am heading to my parents place tommorrow about 30 miles away, so I am anxious to see what kind of MPG improvements I get. Heck on the GT stang, I got 3mpg.

 

Let us know what the mpg increase is... also did you notice any power increase. This sounds like a fairly easy mod.

Thanks!

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2001 Ford F150 Supercab 4.6L

 

Sounds like something that I might want to do if it increases power/mileage. Post instructions on how you did it also.

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1997 XLT Teal 4.6L Flareside 4x4. Automatic, Reg. cab, tinted windows, bug deflector, Dual exhaust, K&N Generation 2 air filter, BullDog keyless entry/remote start(installed myself), Custom 16" wheels, bedliner, Covercraft tonneau cover. Going to add headers.

 

got a few questions for you.

what did you do about removing the stock fan, and how much 'custom work' did it take to get the cown vic fan in??

this sounds like it is a worthwhile job.

thanks

------------------
mr k
_ ____________________ _
1999 f150 xlt ex-cab 4x4
4.6 triton v8
5 speed manual
3:55 rear
towing package
k&n f.i.p.k.
gibson ss swept side

 

I too, anxiously await installation details and performance/mileage gains...Mark


sundayniagara@hotmail.com

 

Crown Victoria '96 Electric Fan install:

Tools:
-fan wrench
-zip ties
-wire strippers
-7/16" bolts, nuts and washers

Install:

-pop the hood
-Remove the jack rod
-remove the plastic pop nuts that hold the plastic skirt over the top of the radiator. use a phillips screw driver to unscrew them, then pull out.
-remove the plastic cover/skirt
-You need a fan wrench. Autozone has them for $30 or free tool loaner program.
-The fan unscrews from the water pump shaft. If you will look you will see. The Haynes manual is WRONG in there. It is right hand thread. So torque towards the passenger side to unscrew it. Just break it lose now.
-use a 8mm socket wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the fan shroud.
-Finish unscrewing the fan, and remove the shround and fan.
-toss the fan to the side.
-take the CV (crown vic) fan and place it inside the shroud. Since it is fiberglass and covers the whole radiator, we are going to use it to mount the CV fan to. Keeps a stock look also.
-there are 3 mounting tabs on the fan. I used 7/16" bolts, nuts and washers to mount it. Drill the 3 holes. The first at the 6 o'clock bottom position, using the fan as a guide. Bolt it in place, then the other use the fan to drill the other 2 holes. Install the bolts.
-Bolt the electic fan up, use locktite on the bolts.
-Now put the shroud/fan setup back in. It slips into place on the lower sides of the radiator, then held in place with the stock bolts.
- Now to wiring up the fan! I bought a HAYDEN brand electric fan controller. It has AC on and adjustable temp selection. Very easy to install. Ran me $30 and has a 30 amp relay in it also. I may replace this with like a 45 amp relay later if I run into problems.
-I mounted the controller to the left of the radiator. I drilled 1 hole and used a self tapping screw to mount it. I also used some black gasket maker silicone on the back of the controller to glue it down also.
-Drill another hole above and to the side of the contoller for a ground.
-mount the ground wire (black wire) from the controller and the ground from the fan. You will need a piece of wire to extend the fan ground wire here. I used the blue lead that I cut off.
-I cut the second fan lead from the controller (blue wire) and hooked up the positive from the controller to the positive on the fan (orange wire)
-the green wire goes to the positive AC wire. This is a PIA to get to! The AC unit is under the belt tensioner. Remove the plug, strip back the tape and splice into the black/green stripe wire there.
- Now I am a bit lazy, but this works well. I wired the positive and the iginition on wire directly to the battery. Works well in the stang, and have not had any dead batteries from it. It will only turn on when it gets to or above the preset temp. In the summer it only did it about twice for 20 seconds before not running again. Some extra insurance once the key is off in the summer that things will stay cool.
- mount the temperature probe by the water inlet hose. There is a large opening in the top left of the radiator that I used. I did not have to punch through the fins there. Secure it as per the instructions with the plastic zip ties parts.
-now time to test! turn the key to on. Then turn on the AC. The fan should kick on. Check to see that it is blowing air into the engine compartment, not out the radiator. There should be a LOT of air movement! You can feel the air flow in front of the radiator!
-once that is good, turn off the truck. Use zip ties to secure all the wires.
-start the motor and test again. You will not be able to adjust the temperature until the truck is at operating temperature. So leave that for a while. I have noticed that they are preset at 190 degrees on the hayden units. That is when the stock thermastat opens, so that is about perfect.
-install the plastic skirt/cover back and the jack rod, drop the hood and enjoy! You just freed up soem HP from the parasitic drag of the stock fan! this will help in acceleration and MPG!

[This message has been edited by Matt90GT (edited 02-11-2001).]

 

matt,

thanks for taking the time to post these directions. will be printing them out shortly.

i have looked into the under pulleys, a different ignition system, and this to make the truck a little quicker and this is the only option that i think has no real drawbacks.

have decided not to go after the ignition, or pulleys after seeing all the negatvie posts. this looks like a winner. thanks.



------------------
mr k
_ ____________________ _
1999 f150 xlt ex-cab 4x4
4.6 triton v8
5 speed manual
3:55 rear
towing package
k&n f.i.p.k.
gibson ss swept side

 

Your welcome.

Results that everyone is hungry for is.........


Power, by the butt-o-meter (which is pretty accurate by the way) about 7hp and 10 ft-lbs of torque. Really made a lot of difference in torque. Pulls a lot stronger down around 1500rpms, then if you go over 3k really revs easily like the engine should! Much improved.

For driving, I can get to 30mph in 3rd (i have the 5sp) without thinking about it. Before I would have to rev it some or pull 4th to get there. This is normal driving style here. 5th gear, I can pull down to 27mph without the engine making the lugging sound. It revs smoother and quicker without the drag. It feels like going from 3.55 to 3.73 gears. Not a lot of difference, but you can feel it quicker with more torque.

Now the milage. I drove about 100miles today. About 20 of that city, the rest highway and freeway about 67mph. I use to get 80miles per quarter tank. I got an honest 89-90miles this time. So about 1.5mpg. The fan only kicked in this afternoon when I got home and it was sitting for about 5 minutes. Other than that, the temp gauge never moved all day.

For $75, cannot be beat! Fan was $45, and the controller was $30.

Email or post back if you have questions.

------------------
1997 XLT: 4x4, 4.6 5 sp manual. supercab, 3.55LS. Eagle Series 171 16x8 wheels with 285/75/16 BFG ATs. Magnaflow 2.5" muffler, electric fan, Airbox mods, K&N, Amsoil synthetics in engine, tranny and transfercase.

1990 Mustang GT. Black, 5sp. Usual mods, about 250bhp.

 

WOW thats some good mileage there. Is the difference between auto and manual that big of a difference in mileage. I get about 10 to 15mpg. Also what RPM do you normally run at going down the raod?

------------------
1997 F-150 Lariat
Ext Cab Short Box
4x4 Off Road Package
3.55 Gears
265/75 R16 Uniroyal Laredo M/Ts

My 2 cents worth

If you're gonna stroke it, POWERSTROKE IT!!!

 

Thnaks a lot for sharing all that! Where can I get the Hayden controller?

 

Matt,

Do all of the 96 CV's have electric fans or just the police units? Also do they have the regular clutch fan in addition to the electric fan?

Mike

 

I bought an extended warranty when I bought this truck so I might hold off on doing this until the warranty ends. You had to go into 4th gear before you put the fan in to get 30mph? My previous truck(95 EB F150) had a 5 speed and the 4.9L inline 6. I could get 30 in 2nd. I didn't have a tach so I had no idea what the RPM's were at. Now I have the 4.6L with an automatic tranny. When I got pass someone going up this hill between the base and the city, I can get at least 70mph in 2nd when I floor it to pass. The hill is about 5 to 6% grade.

------------------
1997 XLT Teal 4.6L Flareside 4x4. Automatic, Reg. cab, tinted windows, bug deflector, Dual exhaust, K&N Generation 2 air filter, BullDog keyless entry/remote start(installed myself), Custom 16" wheels, bedliner, Covercraft tonneau cover. Going to add headers.

 

All the 96 Crown Vics have electric fans. It believe it is the first year of the 4.6 in that car. No engine driven fan. All ford cars 96 and newer have electric fans. The Mustangs started in 94, Mark8 when they came out, CV in 96 i believe. It is the primary engine fan. So if you install this, you remove the engine driven fan and replace it.

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
You had to go into 4th gear before you put the fan in to get 30mph? My previous truck(95 EB F150) had a 5 speed and the 4.9L inline 6. I could get 30 in 2nd. I didn't have a tach so I had no idea what the RPM's were at. Now I have the 4.6L with an automatic tranny. When I got pass someone going up this hill between the base and the city, I can get at least 70mph in 2nd when I floor it to pass. The hill is about 5 to 6% grade.

Like I said normal driving. S0 keeping it under 2k, actually shifting around 1500rpms. There is also a difference since you have 4sp auto and I have a 5 sp manual. My gears are a bit shorter than yours in the tranny. I can definately get to 40 in second if I rev it out, but that is not normal driving for me.

[This message has been edited by Matt90GT (edited 02-12-2001).]

 

I got mine locally at Knechts auto parts stores.

I am sure you can find something similar locally. If you have AC, make sure you get one with an AC on function and adjustable thermostat.

 

Not to get off the subject, but the electric fan has nothing to do with speed you are shifting at. You are actually shifting at a higher rpm now whether you think you are or not. Since you don't have the drag created by the stock fan, you're reving the engine easier. You will be going the same speed at 1500rpm in 2nd whether you have the electric fan, flex fan, stock fan, or no fan.

------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4X4 Off Road 5.4L Reg. Cab 3.55

Performance Enhancemets:
K&N
WMS Velocity Tube
Gibson Sweptside

Audio Enhancements:
All of the above, plus
Sony C7000X HU
Cerwin-Vega SS2502 components(Front)
Blaupunkt PCxp573s(Rear)

Radio-delay mod

Other Enhancements:
Extang Black Max Tonneau Cover