Where/what is the octance shorting bar?
A buddy of mine has been having a ton of problems with is '98 4.6. It pinged constantly so he took it to the dealer. They said they unhooked the octane shorting bar to correct this. Now the engine has no power and still pings a little.
I wanted to help him hook it back up and see if running better fuel would correct the problem. Unfortuantely I have no idea what this "bar" looks like or what it does.
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Supercrew 4x4 Lariat
Solid Black , 5.4 Triton, 3.55 Limited Slip, 6750# GVWR Package, Skid Plates, Moon Roof, Sliding Rear Window, Trailer Tow - Class III, Cargo Cage, Grey Leather Captains Chairs, 6-Disc CD Changer
Mods:
305/70/16 Goodyear ATS
American Racing Atlas 16x8
Chrome Westin Steps
Flowmaster, Delta Flow 50 SI/DO
Planned:
Toneau Cover
Expedition Console Mod.
Another great Ford truck site -www.fseries.com
Truck Pictures
I wanted to help him hook it back up and see if running better fuel would correct the problem. Unfortuantely I have no idea what this "bar" looks like or what it does.
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Supercrew 4x4 Lariat
Solid Black , 5.4 Triton, 3.55 Limited Slip, 6750# GVWR Package, Skid Plates, Moon Roof, Sliding Rear Window, Trailer Tow - Class III, Cargo Cage, Grey Leather Captains Chairs, 6-Disc CD Changer
Mods:
305/70/16 Goodyear ATS
American Racing Atlas 16x8
Chrome Westin Steps
Flowmaster, Delta Flow 50 SI/DO
Planned:
Toneau Cover
Expedition Console Mod.
Another great Ford truck site -www.fseries.com
Truck Pictures
The "Bar" is a little black plastic plug about 3/8" by 1/2" at the end of a short cable located high on the passenger side firewall. It is to the left of the plastic cover for the two mega-fuses if your looking from the front of the vehicle. With the plug removed you should see a little bit of red plastic visible. With the oxygenated fuel, I pulled my shorting bar, and I run midgrade gas to get around the pinging going up hills.
Hope this helps
Regards
Bill Aquino
Hope this helps
Regards
Bill Aquino
What does this do? How does it work? When should it be removed, or left in place?
-AR
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2001 F-150 XLT 4x4 Off-Road, SuperCab, Flareside, Black[*] 4.6L Triton V8 HPI[*] 5 Speed / 3:55 Reg. Axle[*] Keyless[*] Premium Audio CD
Mods:[*] K&N Cold Airbox / Throttle Body Mod.[*] 3" Cat-Back (No Muffler, Turn-Down)[*] Cranked Torsion Bars[*] APC XENON PLASMA Super Whites[*] Bugshield[*] Bedliner[*] Ventshades[*] Taillight Covers (Slotted)[*] "Light Argent" 4x4 Off-Road Decals[*] FOX Stickers (Front & Rear Windows[/i])[*] K&N & Flowmaster Stickers (Under the Hood)
Audio:[*] Rockford Fosgate G360A2 Punch Amp[*] JL 12W3-D2 (JL ProWedge Box)
Build Date: 8/23/00 (Kansas City Plant)
arobbins@mail.liberty.k12.mo.us
-AR
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2001 F-150 XLT 4x4 Off-Road, SuperCab, Flareside, Black[*] 4.6L Triton V8 HPI[*] 5 Speed / 3:55 Reg. Axle[*] Keyless[*] Premium Audio CD
Mods:[*] K&N Cold Airbox / Throttle Body Mod.[*] 3" Cat-Back (No Muffler, Turn-Down)[*] Cranked Torsion Bars[*] APC XENON PLASMA Super Whites[*] Bugshield[*] Bedliner[*] Ventshades[*] Taillight Covers (Slotted)[*] "Light Argent" 4x4 Off-Road Decals[*] FOX Stickers (Front & Rear Windows[/i])[*] K&N & Flowmaster Stickers (Under the Hood)
Audio:[*] Rockford Fosgate G360A2 Punch Amp[*] JL 12W3-D2 (JL ProWedge Box)
Build Date: 8/23/00 (Kansas City Plant)
arobbins@mail.liberty.k12.mo.us
I appreciate your responses. The dealer said they went over his truck top to bottom and found nothing wrong. They then proceeded to tell him it was normal. Now the truck is out of warranty and running poorley.
I will have him get the EGR valve checked. Thanks!
I will have him get the EGR valve checked. Thanks!
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be sure the MAF is clean.. clean it with a good quality brake cleaner and q tips (on the inside) And have the "octane shorting bar" put back, though I am pretty sure that 98's don't have them.
kkirt1
Have your mechanic thouroughly check the EGR valve and its operation. I had a 92 Ranger with the same simptoms even running higher octane fuel. My mechanic found that due to EGR valve not fully opening, the combustion temperature would increase to the point it would cause the pre-detonation. Changed the valve and pinging went away.
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99 4X4 XLT S/C with ORP
5.4L 3.73LS
Flow Master Dual Exhaust
K&N Filter w/ Intake Mod
Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150 Electric Cooling Fan
Jason "Hugger" Truck Lid
Have your mechanic thouroughly check the EGR valve and its operation. I had a 92 Ranger with the same simptoms even running higher octane fuel. My mechanic found that due to EGR valve not fully opening, the combustion temperature would increase to the point it would cause the pre-detonation. Changed the valve and pinging went away.
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99 4X4 XLT S/C with ORP
5.4L 3.73LS
Flow Master Dual Exhaust
K&N Filter w/ Intake Mod
Flex-a-Lite Black Magic 150 Electric Cooling Fan
Jason "Hugger" Truck Lid
Another question.
About cleaning hte MAF...what do you mean by, "on the inside?" All their is to clean is the little wires that protrude from the side of the airbox body right? I've heard it needs to be removed and cleaned with a q-tip before, but wouldn't that break the wires? What else is their to clean? I just popped my airbox in half, and shot elec. parts cleaner on both sensors carefully. Is their more to it?
-AR
About cleaning hte MAF...what do you mean by, "on the inside?" All their is to clean is the little wires that protrude from the side of the airbox body right? I've heard it needs to be removed and cleaned with a q-tip before, but wouldn't that break the wires? What else is their to clean? I just popped my airbox in half, and shot elec. parts cleaner on both sensors carefully. Is their more to it?-AR
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jackal:
Another question.
About cleaning hte MAF...what do you mean by, "on the inside?" All their is to clean is the little wires that protrude from the side of the airbox body right? I've heard it needs to be removed and cleaned with a q-tip before, but wouldn't that break the wires? What else is their to clean? I just popped my airbox in half, and shot elec. parts cleaner on both sensors carefully. Is their more to it?
-AR</font>
Another question.
About cleaning hte MAF...what do you mean by, "on the inside?" All their is to clean is the little wires that protrude from the side of the airbox body right? I've heard it needs to be removed and cleaned with a q-tip before, but wouldn't that break the wires? What else is their to clean? I just popped my airbox in half, and shot elec. parts cleaner on both sensors carefully. Is their more to it?-AR</font>
As far as I know, you do NOT want to touch it with your bare hands. Use a Q-tip as others have suggested.
Do a search in the Engines forum on MAF on tips how to clean it. As I recall, Windex is supposed to be okay and it's been suggested that you don't spray it (carefully use the Q-tip instead), though I wouldn't bet the farm on anything I say...
[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 01-26-2001).]


