For all of you with the experience of replacing yourself the spark plugs in your 5.4, did you remove any fuel injection line or other, besides the coils, to make space for the change?

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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

 

JM,

You don't have to remove the fuel lines. But do get several socket extensions and a few wobblers (sp?). I think it takes an average 2 hours to replace all the plugs. Don't forget to get a pack of band-aids too. Good luck

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1999 F250 LD S/C XLT 4x4
5.4L, 3.73, 4R100 trans.
Flowmaster 40 "DF" series, K&N, Superchip, WMS Velocity Tube, Rancho RSX shocks, Hellwig rear swaybar, Stull billet grille, 2-PIAA Pro80XT's (120W), 2-KC Daylighters (150W), Clear Side Lens Mod w/ 9006 (55W bulbs). 265/70 R17 BFG AT KO's on 17x8 American Racing Atlas rims
Kenwood 7007 CD, Alpine 3342 Signal Processor, Alpine MRV-F353 5Ch. Amp, Pioneer TS-A6865 3-way speakers, MTX Thunderforms. CompuStar alarm/autostart. On the way: Performance Accessories 3" body lift, 33/12.5/17 ProComps, GSP grille guard and more KC's

 

I wonder if a 50 pack of band aids will be enough. I know it's crowded in there, I hate that part.

 

I went to 2-3 local shops and they told me I would need to remove the intake plenium to get at the plugs and the cost in labor would jack the price up to around $250 total.

I looked around the engine of my 5.4 expedition 1997 model and I could only see the coils. I dont mind attempting the change myself as I have the tools but I would like a few more suggestions or tips.

Anyone know for sure that you do or dont have to remove a bunch of stuff?

Thanks

Don

 

The reason for me posting the message is basically getting some feedback to save some time when replacing the plugs. I am self confident and I know I can do it and I will go for it.

I know is time consuming just from taking a look at the engine where those little devils are plug in. With the feedback I am almost convinced that I will be doing it on saturday or sunday early morning.

I am tired of listening to shop owners or employees of how NOT to do things in my truck, you know because it is dangerous or difficult or you will damage this or that. I respect their technical preparation and education but $250.00 for installing the spark plugs on a 5.4 is out of this world. I know I am going to look for help from professionals when installing my gears. But we can handle most of the bolt on mods on our trucks.

I will confirm to all of you if it is better to pay to get them installed based on my experience. Because of the Holidays I don't think that I will be able to get it done by the end of the year, but I will let you know here.

Happy Holidays.

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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

 

Ok, I just changed my plugs 2 days ago. You will need several extensions, and a couple of those angle adapters/wobblers (don't know exactly what they are called). You should also have a shop vac handy.

There was quite a bit of dust and dirt in the spark plug hole so I vacuumed each out before taking out the old plug. And then vacuum again before putting the new plug in.

I used a rubber hose on the new plug to start it in the threads so that there was no way to cross thread. Also remember to use anti-sieze.

I ran into one problem. Somehow there was a rock stuck next to one of the plugs. I still haven't figured out how to get that rock out because it's on the driver's side furthest back. I'm still working on trying to get it out, but may resort to taking it to somebody.

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97 150 4.6 auto ex-cab 4x4 3.55 open.
K&N filter, 1 into 2 dual glass packs, 285 wild country's on 2000 Ford Rims.
bad pic of my truck

 

A rock??
It's amazing what garbage can into these days. You might want to try some surgical needle nose pliers or a dentist's pick to loosen the rock.

[This message has been edited by Jupiterak (edited 12-25-2000).]

 

Off topic, the other day my wife was on her way to the gym at around 5:30AM (we do exercise early in the morning)and all of a sudden I receive a call from her telling me she was coming back because there was a very loud and strange noise coming from under the truck. After some searching here and there I found a stone stucked between one side of the right side front brake rotor and the splash guard. It was a very high pitch screeechiiing sound turning heads everywhere(not the reason I want to call for attention). Couple of minutes later and it was gone. No damage to the rotor. There something about this stones.

Thank you guys, I will have all those tools available at installation time. Hope I do not find any stone on my way.

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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

 

You guys want a challenge?? Come change the plugs on my V10. I got a first aid kit... Cold beer?? Anyone????

I've had 3 rocks end up between my rotors and the shields. Only on the fronts. Go figure...

Happy Holidays everyone!!

 

Three?, I think that sets a record in the pick a rock book.

 

Just replaced plugs in my 98 5.4, here's what I did: You need 5/8" spark plug socket, a few socket extensions (short and long), some universal joint thingies for your extensions too. Also I recommend the extensions that have a locking button so you can't pull it out of the socket. Mount universal joint directly to socket, then wrap duct tape around to keep the uni on the socket (so it won't pull off either). You also need a real small (6 or 7 mm?) socket and 1/4" drive rigged same way as above for the coil hold-down screw. You need an air source to blow debris out of plug wells (dirt sand etc). I used shop vac with hose on exhaust side, then crevice fitting, then small tubing stuck it hole and duct taped in place. Need a lot of light too. A quilt of some other padding will reduce bruised ribs from laying across misc engine bay components, cuts down on paint damage too. Put small squares of duct tape on knuckles to reduce blood and band-aid consumption. Go to store, buy 8 Bosch Platinum +4. I think these things give you a couple HP, I accidently burned tires from stop light in straight line FOR FIRST TIME EVER in 3 yrs of ownership right after I put the Bosch P+4s in (i know, i'd never guess it would matter either, guess thats why the d*a*m*n things cost 52 bucks a set). Then buy 6 beers. Go home and plan on spinning 5-6 hrs getting ready, doing the job and cleaning up. Drink beer, sleep, then drive truck in town where there are stoplights. Oh, you don't have to remove injectors or fuel plenum if you have enough craftsman socket tools and patience. It does help to remove power steering fluid reservoir bracket. It also help to previously own a 77 Jeep J10 P/U with complete fully rusted fasteners everywhere to put the difficulty of this F150 job into perspective.

 

oh yeh you need antiseize and dielectic grease too.

 

According to the owner's manual, the plugs should be changed at 100,000 miles. I guess that's why Ford engineers didn't bother to make plug access easy. On the bright side, when my F-350 7.3L TD arrives, I'll only have to struggle with the F-150 plugs, and that's not for another 95,000 miles. A small price to pay for such an awesome vehicle.

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'00 5.4L 4X4 Lariat (Black/Silver)
'99 Ranger 4.0L 4X4 XLT

 

I'm trading in at 95k miles

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'01 SuperCrew 4x4 Lariat, 5.4, 3.55 LS Amazon Green/Gold, med parchment, Moonroof, captains, 6cd, skids, slider, tow, cab steps, Pendaliner, Advance Bed Cover.

 

Our OEM spark plugs are supposed to be platinum tips. That's why they should last 100,000 miles. But even platinum plugs show some wear during their lifetime so, a new set of say Bosch's or Splitfire's will help compensate for the wear and you will feel the difference as seeker333 mentioned above.

Thanks a lot seeker333 for that detailed explanation on how to deal with the little devils. I will let you know on the outcome.

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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck