Just an FYI......Sears does sell a 5/8 spark plug socket with the universal flex built right into it for about $6. That stops the thing from coming apart on you when trying to lift the plug out or getting the socket off the plug once it's finally in and tight. All you have to worry about now is the extensions staying together

------------------
Boss™

Ordered June 29th, 2000; pick-up date Nov 28th, 2000: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver Supercab 4x4, Styleside, 5.4L, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Planned Mods:
"Protected by the Owner and his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, Pacesetter ceramic coated headers, Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system

 

Thank you Boss. I already purchase a 5/8" T tool (T handle) with the socket attached to it. I will be getting other extensions from my dad's tool box and I think I will be ready for the task. I am thinking of having there more tools than I need that day, just to be sure. Of course, my list of tools and materials it's been developed from this tread.

Thank you guys.

------------------
My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

 

Wrap electrical or duct tape around the joints of your socket extensions to keep them from coming apart.

I plan to change the plugs in my 1998 5.4L this weekend. I didn't spring for the Bosch +4's... too expansive for my blood... I went with the regular Platinum tipped Bosch plugs.

Thanks for all the tips... I'll need them this weekend!

--Steve

 

What is a good price for the Platinum +4 Bosch's?

 

$6 ea everywhere i looked except found 'em on internet once for $5 ea not including S&H

 

Not that bad for a premium spark plug. I'll look around. The thing is that I have with me a set of splitfire's (non platinum) that I purchase many months ago thinking they were the best (at the moment). But now I am having second thoughts about them after reading so much of the Bosch's. However I read good things about the splitfire's as well.

Since there is so much effort in replacing them I would like to go with the best and the longer lasting( of course platinums).

I will decide on the next days or so if I keep them or try to sell them to an interested party and get the Bosch's. We'll see what happen. Thanks for the support.

 

http://www.automedicsupply.com/

Try this site out. My truck really likes the +4's.

------------------
97 150 4.6 auto ex-cab 4x4 3.55 open.
K&N filter, 1 into 2 dual glass packs, 285 wild country's on 2000 Ford Rims.
bad pic of my truck

 

Good351

Great site. I just requested them a quote for price and shipping to PR? I hope they can include me in the free shipping promotion. Thank you.

 

Okay, I just replaced my sparkplugs in my '98 5.4L this afternoon. Took me about four hours. All in all, it was not too difficult a job.

Here are some pointers:

1. Go to Sears and buy a sparkplug socket that has the swivel built-in.

2. Make sure you have plenty of extensions and at least one in-line swivel (universal joint) connector.

3. On the driver's side, third coil-pack from the front... You'll need a 1/4" 7mm socket with a u-joint to get the coil pack off. A bit tricky, but it will come off. This is by far the toughest coil-pack to remove since there is a vacuum diaphram immediately above the coil-pack. If you can find a 1/4" 7mm socket with built-in swivel you'll be doing yourself a big favor, otherwise make sure you have a 1/4" 7mm socket and u-joint.

4. You'll have to remove the power steering reservoir bracket (easy) to have better access to the driver's side front two plugs.

5. On the passenger side, you'll need to remove the wiring harness block from the firewall to gain access to the rear-most two plugs.

6. As others have pointed out: use a scrap piece of hose to hand-start the plugs. Use anti-seize compound on the plug threads and dielectric grease in the coil-pack plug boots and connections.

7. Attach a piece of hose to an air compressor spray nozzle. Stick the hose down in the plug hole and blast with compressed air to remove any debris *before* you remove the plug. After you hand-tighten the spark plug with the hose, blast again with air before you attach the coil-pack.

If I had to do it again, it'd probably take me about two hours now that I know how to do it.

As others have pointed out: No need to remove the fuel rails. It's a fairly simple job once you get all the hoses and such out of your way.

FYI... After the plug change, my truck idles smooooooth! I'll report back on any performance gains once my computer re-learns everythins (yes, disconnect the battery before undertaking this job!)

--Steve


[This message has been edited by bluecrab (edited 12-28-2000).]

 

Today I will be checking some prices here and if I can not find any better I will ordered a set of Bosch's from automedic.

Bluecrab, that's a great step by step explanation on how to do the job, thank you. It will be very helpful at installation time. What spark plugs did you installed?

 

I used Bosch Platinum plugs (not the +4's).

My opinion is that the Bosch +4's and SplitFire plugs are nothing more than marketing hype. That's my opinion, take it or leave it.

FWIW, the old plugs that I removed (original factory-installed Motorcraft Platinum plugs) were in good condition. Several plugs had a tiny amount of ash build-up on the electrode, probably due to the fuel cleaners that I've been running through the system on a regular basis. The original plugs had about 41,000 miles on them.

Also, I read that some people were finding two different types of plugs factory installed in their 5.4L's... with different gap settings and all. My truck had all plugs the same with the same gap. Not sure why some guys were reporting this.

--Steve

 

I forgot to add. When I changed my plugs a few months back, I used the Champion Truck Plugs. I used them in my Chevy and worked very well.
But I get my truck back today from Ford due to the oil leak. They put new factory plugs in, so I might have to try the Bosch +4's this time.
Does anyone have the Bosch part#?

[This message has been edited by Jupiterak (edited 12-29-2000).]

 

bluecrab,
According to my owner's manual, my truck requires two different sets of plugs, or at least that's my interpretation. The manual lists two different part numbers. I just assumed that the plugs have different overall lengths, maybe to overcome clearance issues.


------------------
'00 5.4L 4X4 Lariat (Black/Silver)
'99 Ranger 4.0L 4X4 XLT

 

That different part #'s observation is very interesting. I will be checking my manual but as far as I can remember thay are all the same.

 

I know that one, the plugs are different due to the iginiton. One requires platinum on the - side one needs platinum on the + side. Get the double platinum plugs, which I think most are, and you'll be fine.

------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.

1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17

My Home Page