98 4.6 chk engine, rough, hesitation
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: W. Van., BC, Canada
98 4.6 chk engine, rough, hesitation
Hi,
Read some of the other posts. Not sure what my F150's prob is. Noticed a little bit of pinging lately before trouble started. Only has 62k kms and 2 1/2 years driving on it. Warrantee expired at 60k! Doesn't seem like a good warrantee to me. When it started it idled fine, hesitated when cold but fine when warm. Then (over 3 wks) hesitated at idle when cold and slowly started hesitating/rough when running. Sometimes a burp of the throttle smooths things out for a second or two. Now runs extremely rough, even idle fluctuates like it's on 6 or 7 cylinders. Stock everything. Haven't changed plugs/wires, only K&N filter in stock airbox but cleaned and oiled it last time more than 4 months ago. 4.6L, auto trans, 4x4, S.cab, 3.55 axle, XLT (air,etc). Usually drive with heavy go foot. Have dealer appointment Mon but appreciate advice. Read posts with info on cleaning MAF, new plugs/wires, oxygen sensor. Will check wires/plugs tomorrow. Which specific model of code reader is good. Is this an OBD-II vehicle? Thanks for your help.
Read some of the other posts. Not sure what my F150's prob is. Noticed a little bit of pinging lately before trouble started. Only has 62k kms and 2 1/2 years driving on it. Warrantee expired at 60k! Doesn't seem like a good warrantee to me. When it started it idled fine, hesitated when cold but fine when warm. Then (over 3 wks) hesitated at idle when cold and slowly started hesitating/rough when running. Sometimes a burp of the throttle smooths things out for a second or two. Now runs extremely rough, even idle fluctuates like it's on 6 or 7 cylinders. Stock everything. Haven't changed plugs/wires, only K&N filter in stock airbox but cleaned and oiled it last time more than 4 months ago. 4.6L, auto trans, 4x4, S.cab, 3.55 axle, XLT (air,etc). Usually drive with heavy go foot. Have dealer appointment Mon but appreciate advice. Read posts with info on cleaning MAF, new plugs/wires, oxygen sensor. Will check wires/plugs tomorrow. Which specific model of code reader is good. Is this an OBD-II vehicle? Thanks for your help.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 0
From: Waltham Ma.
p_ferlow
To clean the Mass Air remove the air filter take a QTip and spray some windex on it. very carefully rub the two wires in the Mass Air Flow Meter. Be careful use very light pressure so you do nor brake one of the wires.
Sometimes the K&N filter can cause the Mass Air Meters wires to get a thin film of oil , causing a check engine light.
To clean the Mass Air remove the air filter take a QTip and spray some windex on it. very carefully rub the two wires in the Mass Air Flow Meter. Be careful use very light pressure so you do nor brake one of the wires.
Sometimes the K&N filter can cause the Mass Air Meters wires to get a thin film of oil , causing a check engine light.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I had the same problem with my F150 4x4.Ran my truck for 30,000 miles that way until I got tired of it.The computer at the dealer said it was one of my O2 sensors.Got it fixed and took care of the problem.Hope this helps you!
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Pa
p_ferlow
your truck is OBD-II. I got my scanner from summit racing. It's an actron/sunpro & was about $140. It is well worth the cost. Your prob could be EGO sensor or MAF or who knows. The scanner will tell you.
------------------
97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-K&N-3"
pvc air box mod-Granetelli MAF
your truck is OBD-II. I got my scanner from summit racing. It's an actron/sunpro & was about $140. It is well worth the cost. Your prob could be EGO sensor or MAF or who knows. The scanner will tell you.
------------------
97 Lariet-sc-4.6-4x off road-auto-3.55 LS-
superchip-K&N-3"
pvc air box mod-Granetelli MAF
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: W. Van., BC, Canada
Thanks for the quick replies guys. I just cleaned the two little resistor looking wires in the MAF and that didn't solve it. Seeing as it's ok if you burp the gas pedal in park my biggest guess without a scanner is an oxygen sensor meaning one bank of the motor isn't up to par. Plug wires look ok. My wife won't let me spend the $ on a code reader. Damn it. Wondering if I'm best to visit the dealer for a code scan or an independent shop. The dealer can check more than just the basic OBD-II parameters right? Doesn't their tester check other things with your computer?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Pa
not really
the dealer tool is a highly advanced version of the basic scanner but it does have the onboard diagnostics. Tell the wife 2 dealer trips to read codes will pay for a scanner if you have a code set. the onboard stuff is for driveability problems that don't set a code.
the dealer tool is a highly advanced version of the basic scanner but it does have the onboard diagnostics. Tell the wife 2 dealer trips to read codes will pay for a scanner if you have a code set. the onboard stuff is for driveability problems that don't set a code.
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: W. Van., BC, Canada
The local autoparts store here charges $94 CN for each oxygen sensor. Not a cheap hobby. Haven't got a price on the actron/sunpro analyser yet. JCWhittney has it for $179... kinda pricey. Have to wait till Monday. Does anyone know if you can measure resistance or anything on the oxygen sensor wires themselves to find the one that's fried? I had a 2.9L 1990 Ranger and we also have a 92 VW GTI and I've never heard of the oxygen sensors failing at a measly 62k kms.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
From: Pa
p_ferlow
I replaced both front O2 sensors by 55K. Chiltons says the resistance across the heater disconnected should be 6 ohms & the voltage on the sensor connected should be .01 to 1.0v. The heater wires are red & not sure and the sensor wires are grey/red & not sure. You'll have to probe them.
I replaced both front O2 sensors by 55K. Chiltons says the resistance across the heater disconnected should be 6 ohms & the voltage on the sensor connected should be .01 to 1.0v. The heater wires are red & not sure and the sensor wires are grey/red & not sure. You'll have to probe them.
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: W. Van., BC, Canada
Thanks a lot for the tips/info. I really appreciate it. I'll do some measurements in the morning. Have you heard anything of how long the factory spark plugs last? Are they platinum or double platinum from the factory?
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
From: W. Van., BC, Canada
Dealer fixed the problem. $307.00 plus taxes. This includes a $150 "code diagnostic"... whatever... and labour plus one spark plug wire (#5) and one platinum plug.
So there you have it folks.... GET YOURSELF A CODE SCANNER AND KEEP THE MONEY IN THE BANK!!!
I think I'll be asking for a Sunpro code reader for my next birthday.
The parts dept. guy did say that he's seen a lot of O2 sensors replaced under warrantee. $94 at Lordco autoparts, and $183 from the Ford dealer.
All prices in Canadian dollars so don't panic if you think I paid US$.
So there you have it folks.... GET YOURSELF A CODE SCANNER AND KEEP THE MONEY IN THE BANK!!!
I think I'll be asking for a Sunpro code reader for my next birthday.
The parts dept. guy did say that he's seen a lot of O2 sensors replaced under warrantee. $94 at Lordco autoparts, and $183 from the Ford dealer.
All prices in Canadian dollars so don't panic if you think I paid US$.