Dustoff, the only reason I'm writing this is I can't stand to watch the whipping of the Vikes anymore. (Geeze, 41 Zip as I type.)

msparks, I just use regular Mobil 1 5W-30 in the bike. From what I've read, there is very little difference between the V-Twin and regular synthetic. Other than PRICE, of course!

 

Did you read the article on the Mobil V-Twin oil? December 2000 American Iron.

Also Doesn't Harley call for 20w50? I would think that the 5w30 would be too thin for your application. I would call Mobil and ask for your sake. I wouldn't want a $20K bike to go kaput!! I only recommend 20w50 for anyone with a v-twin, unless otherwise stated in the owners manual(honda shadows call for 10w40).

Be safe!

http://www.mobil.com/mobil1_racing/a...cle/chuck.html

Also some of the difference between the MC oil and car stuff is that the MC oil has the friction modifiers (moly)taken out to help reduce high temp deposits in the Harley.
Also the V-twin has more zinc and phosphorus to control wear on the cam lobes!

I know the price is high but I feel that it's worth it!

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[This message has been edited by msparks (edited 01-14-2001).]

 

msparks, I did read the article(s) in American Iron. Donny had some interesting stuff to say. Enjoyed them. I goofed in my prior msg. (By the way, I thought that the responses to Donny, in the later issues, were a bit weak.)

Yup, I wouldn't be comfortable with the 5W-30 in the bike unless I were out riding at the cold temps we have now! I used 20W-50 regular Mobil 1. Am using 0W-30 in the cars in the winter, though, and am really pleased with the zero weight -- easy starts, etc. For this climate, the 30W is no problem even during the summer.

 

HarleyGuy,

You had me scared there for a second? In high temps that 5w30 wouldn't last long in a H-D!

Check out the latest issue of American Iron. Features Amsoil's View on the synthetics for H-D's.

It's a little bit higher than regular mobil 1 , but it has more additives and it costs less than the Mobil V-Twin stuff which retail around $8 a quart. BTW Amsoils V-twin stuff is around $6.25 retail.
http://amsoil.com/products/amv.htm

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For bikes just use Mobil 1 15w50. It doesn't have the friction modifiers in it. There was a great article in Motorcycle Consumer news about oil. They basically said that Mobil 1 15w50 has the same ingredients as the Mobil 1 motorcycle stuff. BTW it is really a bad idea to use oil with friction modifiers in it(10w40 and below) in a motorcycle. It WILL kill your wet clutch.

 

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2"> Can I use Mobil 1 15W-50 in my bike, just like I
use in my car? Mobil 1 is Mobil 1, right?

Mobil 1 for cars and Mobil 1 for motorcycles
are markedly different. Every oil is a balance of
benefits. Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula for cars
has been developed specifically to satisfy car
manufacturers' needs for increased fuel
economy and low emissions.

As you know, a typical air-cooled V-twin's rear
cylinder gets a lot hotter than the front cylinder
— it's a matter of airflow. When it's hot out and
you're stuck in traffic, the oil temperature in
your bike climbs rapidly. Above about 250
degrees F., conventional motor oil is going to
break down. Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic oil is
good to above 300 degrees F.

In addition, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 is a higher
viscosity grade than Mobil 1 15W-50 for
passenger cars. And Mobil 1 V-Twin has no
viscosity index improvers, so the oil is very
"shear stable." Simply put, Mobil 1 V-Twin
synthetic oil won't break down as readily as
conventional oil.

Like Mobil 1 MX4T, Mobil 1 V-Twin has high
levels of phosphorus/zinc and the same
high-temperature detergent technology for
superior wear protection and engine cleanliness,
even at elevated oil temperatures.

With Mobil 1 V-Twin oil, you can go the full
length of the manufacturer's recommended oil
change intervals with ease.

 

For those who can not decided on either "full synthetic" or "conventional" oils....do like me and run a "SEMI-SYNTHETIC oil. You get a little of both worlds for about half the price.

Semi synthetic oils are better than conventional oils and to me that is good enough with out the big price tag of a full synthetic.

Pennzoil "semi synthetic" 5W30 is what I use and works great!

 

Is there actual PROOF that semi-synthetics are better than a 100% conventional?

This appeared to be another gimmick to me!



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Rand

98 Ford Expedition 4X4 XLT
5.4, 3.73s, 17" wheels,
Homemade 3" "COLD" Air-Box
mod, SuperChip, Amsoil
everywhere but tranny, Perma-
Cool combo 6 pass trans/oil
cooler (FQR 5.4 @ 50K)

 

Semi-Synthetics typically contain less that 20% synthetic base stock.

And most contain around 10% synthetic base stock.
Why would you pay such a high price for so little?

I would go with one of the hydrocracked oils before I would buy a semi synthetic. Because you know that 100% of the base stock is good.

Unlike the semi-synthetics that might have 90% group I basestock and be very high in volitility, and oxidation! So even though its a semi-synthetic you can still have major amounts of sludge and varnish forming inside your engine.

The group II and III base stocks on the other hand have a very high restistance to Oxidation and volitility!

Check out Conoco's hydroclear!
http://lubes.conoco.com/products/superall.html
This stuff is the top of the line conventional based oil!
Also chevrons oils are good too!
And Petro Canada, if it is available in your area!

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