fuel injection cleaning/knocking

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 8, 2001 | 09:11 PM
  #1  
afp's Avatar
afp
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Goshen, OH USA
Post fuel injection cleaning/knocking

I have a question regarding fuel injection cleaning. First, a little back ground. I've been experiencing knocking and during the last month it was getting pretty bad. I finally took the truck to the local Ford dealer and the MAF required replacement. It was also suggested I have the fuel injection system cleaned ($169.99) to guarantee the repair. I passed on the cleaning and wanted to see if the knocking was corrected by replacing the MAF. The knocking has decreased quite a bit, but it's still present only during hard acceleration. I would like to know if I'm better off going to Ford for this service ($169.99) or a place like Pep Boys or Goodyear which charge about $79.99. Any suggestions and comments would be welcomed.

1998 F-150 XLT extended cab with shortbed
4.6 L, 4-spd auto, towing pkg, 3.55 axle, bedliner.
the truck was purchase used in Dec '99 with 33,500 miles, current mileage around 53,000.
items added include:
K&N airfilter
bug deflector, mud flaps (from Ford), vent shades, and tonneau cover.
 
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2001 | 10:04 PM
  #2  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,116
Likes: 3
From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
Cool

I had a rough idle and some hesitation,and I used a product called Redline fuel system cleaner. This cured all the driveabilty problems I've had so far.
I have about 51,000 miles on mine right now. Were they saying that this fuel system cleaning was required? or did they just suggest it? You could try the Pep/goodyear one first,and see if it works.
Also,some have had trouble with the MAF sensor getting coated with oil from the K&N filter. Every once in awhile it's a good idea to clean it(very carefully!) with windex and a Q-tip. It cuts down on any trouble with it getting dirty. One more thing
you can try,is to undo the negative battery
cable,and turn the headlights on for five or ten minutes,then hook it back up. They may have done this already,but it clears the memory of the computer and lets it start over with a clean slate(so to speak)
good luck with your truck!,,,,98



------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
Yokahama AVS/ST's
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Westin nerfs blk .powdercoat
Clear front corners
Stillen Quad light air dam, sweet!!
Euro taillights
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
[b]Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
Viper alarm
On the way/wheels,tires, etc..etc.......
the monochromatic boogie is done,cool!.
Come see my new pictures@ www.my-f150.com

officialtomwaits.com
reverendhortonheat.com

WOW,what a cool site!

FENDER GUITARS ROCK!!!
 
Reply
Old Jan 8, 2001 | 11:13 PM
  #3  
Tiron's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Conway, AR
Post

Been meaning to post what finally cured the pinging in my truck, this seems like as good a place as any. First a little background, bought the truck used a little over a year ago with 32K. I think the dealer must have had premium in it because when I filled up the first time with 87 octane the pinging began. I've tried the Chevron Techron cleaner, cleaning MAF sensor, new plugs, changing gas. It's never been a real bad ping, just enough to bug you climbing a hill in OD or accelerating hard. Read about a product called Sea Foam Carbon cleaner. I think it was originally developed for for cleaning out the carbon deposits in outboards. Well I decided to try a treatment and that is what finally cured my truck. It comes in a pint bottle. With the engine warm, disconnect the large vacuum line going to the brake booster. From the brake system side of course so that the treatment will be going into the manifold. A treatment is 1/3 bottle, so slowly pour almost 1/3 into the line. The truck will stumble and almost die during this. Finally empty a good amount into the line to finish up the 1/3 pint treatment. If that doesn't kill the truck, kill it yourself. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes and then crank it back up. It will run really bad. Rev it up a few times to around 2500-3000 RPMs, till the idle smooths out some, then take it out and run it hard around the block. Oh yeah, do this in a very will venitlated area, you will get a great clound of white-grey smoke as the treatment and loosened deposits exit. I'm talking neighbors think your trucks on fire cloud of smoke. After the treatment no more ping, at least on good gas. Still get a tap tap under extreme accelearation with no name gas, Texaco runs smooth as silk now though. It's available for like $5 a can at most NAPA stores and would be something to try before forking over $80 bucks. Also the remaining part of the can be be put in your gas to clean out the fuel system...

Word of warning though. This is kind of a use at your own risk treatment thought. I don't remember seeing anywhere on the can about is being safe for O2 sensors and the like. I didn't have any problems, but your mileage may vary and I didn't want anyone to say I didn't warn them...
 
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2001 | 08:51 AM
  #4  
msparks's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville, Tennessee
Post

I use a product called Power Foam from Amsoil.
It sounds like the stuff described above.
But is say on the can will not harm emissions and catalytic converters. Run $4.15 a can
Cleans entire combustion intake system for improved engine performance. Removes gum, varnish and
carbon deposits for better fuel economy and improved overall engine performance. Cleans intake
valves, intake manifolds and throttle plates to keep the combustion intake system running at peak
efficiency. Effective in both two-cycle and four-cycle engines
http://amsoil.com/products/apf.html

I also have switched from Mid-grade gas to the cheap stuff and I use Performance Improver instead. The price difference more than makes up for itself. Since I only need 2oz



------------------
Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums



[This message has been edited by msparks (edited 01-09-2001).]
 
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2001 | 04:45 PM
  #5  
Pat Dantzler's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
Lightbulb

afp,
Many owners on this site really like the Chevron with Techron fuel injector/system cleaner. I have done extensive reading of the posts on this site and this topic, because I am having the same problem you were and am thinking that if I clean the MAF(or replace it like you did) it will decrease (b/c I also have the K&N filter) and then I am gonna try a bottle of the Chevron. The bottle of cleaner is only about $6 from Wal-Mart(only treats 12 gals. though), or from Advance Auto Parts for $10, but treats aroud 20 gals. Anyway, I would try this before I spent $80-$170. But this is America--your truck, your money, your choice. I just thought I would help by adding my .02 worth.

P.S. My owners manual states that upon really hard accel. or extreme towing, you may experience a little knocking/pinging, but that this is normal and will not harm the engine. But it doesent say anything about it knocking/pinging during regular driving--like I-and you- were experiencing.


Hope everything works out for ya

------------------
1997 F-150 Lariat SuperCab 4x4, 2-tone: white w/tan bottom, 4.6L, aoutmatic, Towing package, K&N Filter, Custom Cat-back true dual exhaust with 2 FLOWMASTER Series 40 Delta Flows and 4" x 22" chrome tips(out the back of course), Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 265/75/16, Ventshade Bug and Window Deflectors.

[This message has been edited by Pat Dantzler (edited 01-09-2001).]
 
Reply
Old Jan 9, 2001 | 09:52 PM
  #6  
jgorka's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, MI USA
Post

This reminds me of the Gumout(r) treatment -- where the process is the same -- only it's dumped into aluminum termite-riddled thingies that were called Carburators.

Be sure that after choking out the engine, you restart it (instead of leaving it sit overnight) on schedule.

As a mechanic, I saw one come in 'on the hook' with a broken rod because the owner let it soak/sit over night (soaking - without starting).

I had to pound the piston out with a hammer since the varnish and crud effectively glued the piston to the cyllinder wall when it cooled.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:55 PM.