Rebuilt engine ?'s
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Missouri,USA
Rebuilt engine ?'s
My 351W in my F150 4x4 was rebuilt about a year and a half ago. The truck just doesn't seem to have the power it used to. It seems a bit sluggish. It also used to get about 15-16 mpg on the highway but now only gets about 10-11 on a good day with the wind behind me. The engine now has a little over 6,000 miles on it (the truck has just over 100,000 miles). It was a long block rebuild. They didn't tell EXACTLY ALL of the specs from the rebuild but this is what I know was done:
NEW: Pistons, rings, bearings, cams, lifters, oil pump, gaskets and freeze plugs.
RECONDITIONED: Crank, rods, push rods, rockers, bored block, power honed heads, and manifold.
Stem height= 2.157-2.1870 (what is this?)
The crank shaft (MKP1116A) was precision ground: Mains=20, Rods=20.
I'm almost positive the block was bored .030
I remember that because I was wondering how it would still be a 351 with bored 30 over cylinders. They said cause of the crank and pistons they put in, I believe is what they said, it still stroked a 351. Anything in that description look like it would maybe cause this thing to be a bit sluggish? This engine is speed density, too. Dual throttle body. I'd like to get some MORE POWER out of it. What's up with the power honed heads? What does that usually mean? Is that the same as porting them (the stock ones) out (like getting heads ported and polished?)? IF that is so, should I change the upper/lower stock intake? What one would you recommend to use?
The O2s and cats are good. Also I just put on NEW: Dist. cap, rotor, plugs (even though they only had 6000 mi. on them), and wires. This helped a little with mpg and it idles smoother now, but still feel a lack of power. The exhaust is stock exhaust manifolds into stock cat Ypipe into glass pack muffler branching into dual tails out the rear. Also, I was just reading some of the details on the engine warranty sheet and it says "On start-up, retorque head and readjust valves to manufacturers specifications after engine reaches normal temperatures." I don't even know if the Ford dealer did this when they put the engine back in the truck. They took it out and reinstalled it while I had another shop do the rebuild. IF this hadn't been done, what kind of difference would this make?
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1990 F-150 XLT Lariat 4x4 reg. cab/LB; 351W; E4OD; 3.55s w/posi; Warn heavy duty manual lock-outs; 31x10.5 AT's on Ford polished aluminum 15x7s; Chrome: grille guard, headache rack, tailgate, bedrails; K&N; Baja floodlights and foglights; dual exhaust (glasspk w/dual 3" chrome tips).
NEW: Pistons, rings, bearings, cams, lifters, oil pump, gaskets and freeze plugs.
RECONDITIONED: Crank, rods, push rods, rockers, bored block, power honed heads, and manifold.
Stem height= 2.157-2.1870 (what is this?)
The crank shaft (MKP1116A) was precision ground: Mains=20, Rods=20.
I'm almost positive the block was bored .030
I remember that because I was wondering how it would still be a 351 with bored 30 over cylinders. They said cause of the crank and pistons they put in, I believe is what they said, it still stroked a 351. Anything in that description look like it would maybe cause this thing to be a bit sluggish? This engine is speed density, too. Dual throttle body. I'd like to get some MORE POWER out of it. What's up with the power honed heads? What does that usually mean? Is that the same as porting them (the stock ones) out (like getting heads ported and polished?)? IF that is so, should I change the upper/lower stock intake? What one would you recommend to use?
The O2s and cats are good. Also I just put on NEW: Dist. cap, rotor, plugs (even though they only had 6000 mi. on them), and wires. This helped a little with mpg and it idles smoother now, but still feel a lack of power. The exhaust is stock exhaust manifolds into stock cat Ypipe into glass pack muffler branching into dual tails out the rear. Also, I was just reading some of the details on the engine warranty sheet and it says "On start-up, retorque head and readjust valves to manufacturers specifications after engine reaches normal temperatures." I don't even know if the Ford dealer did this when they put the engine back in the truck. They took it out and reinstalled it while I had another shop do the rebuild. IF this hadn't been done, what kind of difference would this make?
------------------
1990 F-150 XLT Lariat 4x4 reg. cab/LB; 351W; E4OD; 3.55s w/posi; Warn heavy duty manual lock-outs; 31x10.5 AT's on Ford polished aluminum 15x7s; Chrome: grille guard, headache rack, tailgate, bedrails; K&N; Baja floodlights and foglights; dual exhaust (glasspk w/dual 3" chrome tips).