The ULTIMATE "cold" airbox mod. CHEAP!!!

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Old Aug 30, 2000 | 07:25 PM
  #16  
The_Headless_Horseman's Avatar
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From: La Follette, TN U.S.A
Cool

Jackal, I do have an exhaust system, Flowmaster one in and dual out. And here is the list of add ons I've done
Bug Deflector II
AVS Headlight covers
Lund Wiper Cowl
Window Tint
Color Keyed Carpet
Flowmaster dual exhaust
Soft Bed Cover
Lund Tail light covers
* And your idea for the Cold Air mod
K&N Air Filter
all these cool add ons on a 99 Ford F-150 XL Sport, Black V-6 with 5 speed manual tranny. 3.55 gear ratio

Any ideas I could add on to my truck?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 12:45 AM
  #17  
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From: Austin TX
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Jackal,

Did you ever get the plans for the airbox mod that Crash1 was talking about in another thread. If so could you post them. I have a 98 V6 if it makes a difference. Thanks
 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 02:26 AM
  #18  
Jackal's Avatar
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From: KC, MO
Talking

No, I haven't gotten a list from CRASH1 yet, he went in for another treatment on his back, ans is recovering from that right now. (Get better man.) He will post the list though, as soon as he is up and runnin' again. He also has some awesome ideas on alternate means of air intake.

Headless, dunno what to tell ya, maybe you should look into some "Billet" replacment parts. I've seem some pretty cool stuff out there for the F-150's. How 'bout a carbon fiber dash kit?

-AR
 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 02:40 AM
  #19  
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From: Georgia
Cool

All this talk about "cheap" airbox mods has me droolin' but I need some pics! What does this coupler look like? Should I be able to find this in any decent home improvement store (Lowes, Home Depot, etc)? How long did the mod take to complete?

------------------
Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.

Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS on American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, K&N air filter, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"

Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, Flowmaster 40 Series muffler and stainless exaust tip, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), stainless nerf bars, hood deflector, and a Blaupunkt audio system to name a few.


 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 02:48 AM
  #20  
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From: Trixters-Playground
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I would love to hear more on the chip causing drivability problems or codes to set. Specifically, what codes.

To be honest, most guys in the field have a hard enough time solving problems without considering the chip, and unless you have been diagnosed with a hard code PCM failure, the tech will probably not ever notice it's there. This is why I want to see more info.

Jackal, removing the restrictor from the fenderwell was something I did early on. I had to muster some courage before passing the point of no return with the stock parts.

There are many configurations to be considered. I feel they will all accomplish the same result- bring the 4" diameter air box down to 3" at the throttle body as smoothly as possible, pull the restrictor, and reconnect the filter housing to the fender.

I used a 4" 90 deg. elbow and a 4" to 3" reducer. In my mind, this was the first thing I came up with and I wanted to keep the 4" O.D. I tried cutting out the silencer, and I was not pleased with the outcome. I hacked the ends off completely, so I could use one end to maintain the connections to the IAC (Idle Air Control) hoses and so I would have something solid to clamp the reducer to; the other end was used to keep the IAT (Intake Air Temperature Sensor) fitting. All I replaced was the reducer/silencer assembly.

It goes something like this; from the throttle body to the 4" flex tube at the filter housing.
[list=1]
IAC end of the stock assembly hacked off.
4"-3" reducer.
Clamp.
1" section of 4" PVC pipe.
PVC Cement.
4" 90 degree elbow (or street elbow).
1" section of 4" PVC pipe.
Clamp.
Flex pipe hacked off the stock silencer. [/list=a]

I know this is hard to imagine, but if you are at Home Depot, you can lay it all out on the floor.

I will try to get close-up pics this weekend, and if I missed anything, I will post it.



[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 08-31-2000).]
 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 02:59 AM
  #21  
Jackal's Avatar
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From: KC, MO
Question

Crash,

"I tried cutting out the silencer, and I was not pleased with the outcome."

Are you referring to the "silencer" inside the 90 degree angle near the TB? If so...could you elaborate (sp?) a little? What made you decide that you weren't satisfied with this?

-AR
 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 03:03 AM
  #22  
Jackal's Avatar
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From: KC, MO
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The 3" - 3" coupler looks like a black, 4" - 5" long 3" diameter tube. It has an adjustable steel clamp on each end. Just remove these clamps if you want...I did, but you could use one on the airbox side of you wanted. Come to think of it, I may add the airbox side clamp tomorrow morning.

-AR
 
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Old Aug 31, 2000 | 02:57 PM
  #23  
Spartan's Avatar
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From: Lincroft,NJ,US
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This sounds like a great do-it-yourself mod, to go along with a K&N air filter, and whatever mods you might have done, it would also look REALLY great to go in the "Technical Articles" or F.A.Q. part of this site

I think many of us would love to see an indepth set of instructions, we'd hate to messup and break our wonderful trucks


------------------
97F150 XLT SC 4x4 Flairside 4.6 V8 5sp Dk Toreador Red, 3.55LS
ARE tonneau cover, p255/70rx16 tires (came w/235), Superchip
Pioneer CD w/4 Polk Speakers, skid plates
bed liner, side window deflectors, reese hitch, K&N air filter
40s-2chamber Flowmaster, Bosch +4 spark plugs, rustproofing
Better Built Stainless nerf bars
heavy duty shocks
 
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Old Sep 1, 2000 | 04:39 PM
  #24  
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From: liquid sunshine state (oregon)
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hey crash1 and jackal,
I was thinking about the air intake temperature sensor.I was wondering if it would be possible to relocate this to somewhere cooler and perhaps fool the computer into thinking its getting cooler air than it is.It would then adjust the fuel/air mix richer and presto more power. In theory I think it could work as long as you are getting enough air to burn the extra fuel.just a thought.

------------------
JET air filter
delta tool box
pumpin' stereo
class III reciever hitch
spray in bedliner
headlight covers
custom painted taillight covers
2000 black F150 4x4 sport v-6
-----------------------

lightningcrashz@hotmail.com

 
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Old Sep 2, 2000 | 04:12 AM
  #25  
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
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I was thinking about the air intake temperature sensor.I was wondering if it would be possible to relocate this to somewhere cooler and perhaps fool the computer into thinking its getting cooler air than it is.It would then adjust the fuel/air mix richer and presto more power. In theory I think it could work as long as you are getting enough air to burn the extra fuel.just a thought.
I've seen a variant of this posted on other boards. The IAT simply sends a resistance reading to the computer. Less means hotter air, more means cooler. By placing a small resistor in line with the IAT, the computer thinks its cooler, and richens the fuel mixture. The 4.3 S-10 guys are saying 2 to 3 10ths in the quarter mile.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2000 | 01:17 PM
  #26  
Jackal's Avatar
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From: KC, MO
Red face

I wouldn't think that it would be a good thing to have the computer think it's getting "cool" air, while it's realy getting warmer air. Wouldn't the mix be off? Yep...

-AR
 
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Old Sep 8, 2000 | 01:07 PM
  #27  
2001's Avatar
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From: Calgary, Canada
Question

hey guys....I just installed a WMS cold air velocity tube kit last night.

Q: Does a person have to reset the computer after installing the velocity tube?

Q: If so does anyone have some quick instructions in re-setting the computer?

Appreciate any comments!!


2001 Supercrew 4x4 (4.6L)
 
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Old Sep 9, 2000 | 12:44 AM
  #28  
98SCREAMER's Avatar
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From: Houston, by way of every major city in America.
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You just need a scanner and adobe photodeluxe both combined are cheaper
than a digital camera. Have fun,,,,,,,,,,,,,98

------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips
color matched snuglid
B&M Shiftplus
Westin nerfsblk powdercoat
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/RS speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
On the way/wheels,tires,air dam,
doin the monochromatic boogie
on the front end.etc.etc....etc......
 
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Old Sep 11, 2000 | 03:55 PM
  #29  
page62's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
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To reset the computer, disconnect the negative battery switch, and turn the headlight switch ON for a few minutes. Then turn the headlight switch OFF, and reconnect the battery.

Easy.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2000 | 10:58 PM
  #30  
crash1's Avatar
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From: Trixters-Playground
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Jackal,

I was not pleased with the peformance. The shape you are left with is somewhat square. This is a bad transition for airflow. This is why I went with the PVC.

I suggest leaving the IAT sensor in the stock location, and getting the cooler air across it. Do NOT attempt to add a resistor. This requires ADVANCED electronic skills, and most often will cause drivability problems and drive the system outside parameters!

Here are some details not visible on other threads. Sorry they are so late.







And here is the reshaped airbox with the cold air duct. I did this to provide for a cone added to the end of th K&N.



These parts are available at Home Depot. Let me know if you have any questions.

Derek (aka CRASH)

------------------
BLOWN 4.6 5-speed

Where we started.
After a facelift.
MAGNACHARGER!!!

Trixters-Playground!
trixters-playground@excite.com

F-150online Photo Album
crash@f150fanatic.com

MAGNACHARGER
ALLEN




[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 09-20-2000).]
 
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