I have never used Pennzoil, but after seeing there commercial and the web site, about how they did in a test against Havoline, Mobil,Castrol, and Valvoline, I am considering giving it a shot. I'm curious to find out if anybody out there has had good luck with Pennzoil.

 

Their oil is fine. My dad has used it for 30 years with no problems. I've never believed there is much of a difference in petroleum oil, despite what all the advertising and commercials claim - especially if you change it every 3,000 miles. Regardless, I've always used Valvoline until switching recently to Mobil 1 synthetic. I have a friend who has always used the cheapest oil you can buy and his 84 Ford has 380,000 miles on it with no engine problems caused by bad oil. I'm always sceptical when people claim one oil is better than another - I've never heard of a confirmed engine problem related to the brand of oil someone used - it's usally because they went 30,000 miles before changing it...

 

I've always used it and have been very happy with it. . .

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2000 F-150 XLT Supercab Wedgewood Blue

• 2WD w/ 3.55 Limited Slip
• 4.6L w/ 5 speed manual
• 16" 5-Spoke Aluminum Wheels
• Keyless Entry
• Stereo w/ Single CD
• Sliding Rear Window
• HD Electrical and Cooling
• Medium Parchment Interior

 

Quaker State coke-ed a couple of engines for me a few years back. Switched to Pennzoil then and never had a problem. Went to Mobil 1 for the synthetics but recently switched back since Pennzoil now has a synthetic. Will let you know in a couple of hundred thousand miles......I hope.....

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Black 1997 F-150 Supercab Flairside. 4.6L with Jocobs DIS, K&N Generation II, Cat back Exhaust (my own, nice rumble). 17" Off Road wheel pkg. Lots of body mods. 4 yrs old and still turns heads...

 

Not to cause too much of a tiff, but the Pennzoil non-synthetic products have all the same problems that all other non-synthetic products have.

Yes they do well, and they aren't Walmart-specials, but they still cause sludge formation, still can't absorb the acids and other contaiminants that form. So as far at non-synthetic oils are concerned, they do as good as any other oil of this calibre can do.

The Pennzoil Purebase (I think this is their synthetic version) is a hydrocracked/isodewaxed oil that is being called 'synthetic' in the wake of the Castrol/Mobil Better Business Bureau's ruling. It is not a true synthetic as the other major offerings are.

That being said, if you change it any 3000 miles you should do well as it is more than capable of handling the majority of engine difficulties in this time frame. A good engine flush would be a idea every 10-15K miles though.

Again, not to rip on Pennzoil, but to let you know what they offer.

Randy

 

I would have to agree with randyw. I used Pennzoil for years in my GT until a mechanic pointed out the buildup on the valvetrain, he suggested I switch to Valvoline. I swithched and about a year later the buildup was gone, aside from that I had no other problems like premature breakdown or anything like that.

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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B. 5.4L, 3.55 LS
and everything but the leaky slider window.
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone, Leather Captain's Chairs
Mods: Duraliner bedliner, Bugflector II, Hide-a-hooks.
& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.

 

I think the "synthetic" version is called Pennzane. I'm not sure of the spelling.

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1999 XLT SC, bright red, 4.2l, 5 speed, MAAP stainless nerfs, Prime Designs bug deflector, Astro Euro-Lid II, Mobil 1.

 

in the late 60's early 70's I earned my way through college as a diesel tractor mechanic. I was a pennzoil bigot. Only thing I used in my cars...until I fried a couple motors in my MGB (Worst but funnest car ever to hit the road). Change at that point to Castrol GTX influenced by SCCA racers I was working pits for.

I now use and swear by Mobil 1 and having torn down a couple of engines at over 100K miles that used Mobile 1 exclusively, I wondered why (I wasted time tearing them down, that is)...they were like new. Both engines were head gasket blows (not fault of the oil) all I needed to do was replace the headgaskets...no ring groove, no varnish. Like new compression no oil burning, no scorched or scalded valves very little or no wear.

Nuff said?

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Excercise your 2nd Amendment rights at www.auctionarms,com.

 

Thanks for all the replys. I have herd some things and seen some engines tore down that were using Penzzoil, Thats why I han'nt used the stuff. I have a 93 Taurus that has 80,000 mile on it now and have used Havoline, except when I was station in Germany and I could'nt get it. I had to do the head gasket on it at 68,000 and the engine was very clean considering about half of those miles are hard Autobahn driving , and I've nothing but conventional oil in it. I guess I'll stick with what got me this far.

 

Although it is not readily available at Walmart, IMHO, Amsoil is the premium synthetic oil to use. Mobil1 would be the next best.

For overall, most cost effective and ease to get, Mobil1 is the best choice.

 

Thanks for all the replys. I have herd some bad things and seen some bad things about Pennzoil, Thats why i have naver used them. I have a 93 Taurus with 80,000 miles on it and have used Havoline, except when I was stationed in Germany where I could'nt get it. I had the engine apatr to do the head gaskets at 68,000 and the engine was very clean,considering about half of those mile are hard Autobahn driving. I quess I'll stick with what got me this far

 

The new pennziol conventional with purebase is okay oil, its a group II-first stage hydrocracked oil like chevron delo nonsynthetic. (Whereas Castrol is group III) Supposed to have better oxidation resistance than the old stuff, so it should have less sludge build-up

Now the Synthetic w/pennzane is a 100% synthetic, That is PAO/Ester blend--ie Mobil and Amsoil. So the manager at the Distribution place said when I picked up the spec sheet on it.

The Pennzane stuff is just marketing mumbo jumbo. again according to the distributor.

Any how the numbers on the synthetic are okay, quite close to Amsoil's XL7500 oil.
Penz 5w30//Ams7500 5w30
Vis@ 100C in cSt 9.87//10.1
Vis@ 40C 57.4//58.4
pourpoint -54F//-60F
Vis index 159//160
NOAK Volitility 6.9//7.1
HT/HS Vis 3.05//3.1

If you notice most of these are very close, indicating a pretty decent oil, but with the unfavorable recommendation of every 3,000 miles. So for $5.00 a quart this is not very cost effective. I don't know when the oil companys will figure out that most car now a days don't change their oil every 3,000 miles and help enforce the recommended drains of the manufactures and beyond.

BTW. 2000F150fun, as far as ease of obtaining Amsoil they ship it directly to your door. I would think that would be more available then trying to find mobil one. Ask any Amsoil dealer they will be able to hook you up!
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Lube-Direct

New Lubrication Forums


[This message has been edited by msparks (edited 06-06-2000).]

 

Forgot to add, here is the web site for both pennzoil oils: http://www.pennzoil.com/prdsmktg/pro...r/motoroil.htm

Also here is an article in the NOLN by Don Johnson of quakerstate/pennzoil: http://noln.net/tech/tech2.html

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Lube-Direct


New Lubrication Forums

 

I have always used pennzoil.I used it in my last three trucks with out any engine failure problems. I believe its good stuff!

 

I have NEVER seen an engine broken down after years/miles of synthetic use! I HAVE seen engines broken down after years of conventional use... These engines have TONS of varnish and sludge. However, these where engines that where run in the 70's ad 80's. I'll bet the oils where not as good as today and I know for fact the American 80's engines where ALL TOTAL CRAP (might be 1 or 2 exceptions)... Besides, people didn't really change there oils as much then!
So was it the oils or the engines or combo?

Looking through the oil cap at the valves (that I can see) and looking into the cylinders via spark plug hole I can see that my Honda engine with 33K or a friends with 80K look very new!

Guess the test will be my Ford 5.4 FQR running Amsoil. I'd like it to see 250K AT LEAST!