Recently I have been getting the check engine light on the instrument panel. The first time was when I was traveling pulling a heavy load. The engine was really working hard and I was feeling heat coming from the floor boards. The light did not turn off until the following day after I had been driving it for a while. I let it go until now it has happened again and without pulling a load. Is there anything I can check myself aside from bringing it in to check the computer?

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'97 F150XL 4.6L 5 spd 4x4 SC, Silver Frost Clearcoat Metallic,
K&N air filter, Access Roll-Up Cover, bug deflector, rear custom Ford mudflaps, Pioneer Supertuner CD, 4 Cerwin Vega Speakers. Future mods: Spray-in bed liner, shocks, Superchip, stainless rocker panel.
* 9/27/99 installed Factory Ford 60/40 seats from Sonny's
* 10/13/99 installed cat-back exhaust system with dual pipes out back, a Dynomax Race Magnum muffler, and 3 1/2' stainless slash tips.
* 3/9/00 installed BFG AT 285/75R16 on American Racing Altas 16x8

http://sites.netscape.net/iridektm/homepage

 

Have you checked the gas cap condition? I've read several threads that say it can do this. Do you have a bud with a code scanner?

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.

 

Michael
I get the check engine light whenever I tow, but after several hours at the wheel. I'm towing 2400 lbs on a 4.6 supercab, 97 XLT with a superchip and K&N. I have assumed that it is an emission code, as light stays constant. Owners manual states that if it is a drivability problem, light will blink and driver should pull over as soon as possible to check engine. other than that, manual states that an error in emissions, a misfire of a plug (had that happen on number four when new which caused a check engine) oxygen sensor, ETC.. will cause this.

Also, check engine light will reset after 8 to 10 no code restarts. If error does not appear within the next restarts, it will disappear. I just came back last week from a trip to Cape May NJ and then to Williamsport PA. Had a check engine light once in PA after 600 miles that day, and heavy towing in the mountains. But hey, I was running about 68 to 70. Go figure.

Jim

 

I have just returned from a 5000 mile trip pulling an 8000 lb plus trailer. My check engine light came on about 1600 miles in to the trip. After stopping/killing engine, twice and restarting, the light remained on. I disconnected the neg battery lead and reconnected it and the light was off after this proceedure reset the computer. This re-occurred at least 14 more times during the trip--five, of which, occurred on the final day. I have a service appt. tomorrow to remedy this, but the Ford Svc said by disconnecting the lead, I erased the error codes, and the problem would be difficult to locate. Driving 50 plus miles today has not caused the light to come back on. I was 17 miles from home when I reset it for the last time-wish I wouldn't have. Light needs to be ON at time of svc. for diagnosis.

 

sometimes the PCM will throw out a lean code especially if you have been working it hard. This problem is usually fixed by replacing the fuel filter by my exp. Its hard to guess what code you have though. If you do take it to the shop your looking at a diag. charge, and they will probably want to replace an O2 sensor for a lean code. It might save you a few bucks to check that filter. Good luck, K.C.

 

It has been over a week with multiple restarts. The light is still on. I have not been towing now and only doing everyday driving. The gas cap appears to be OK. How can you tell if it is bad? Should I replace the fuel filter? I have 60,000 miles on it. I was thinking about bringing it in to run a scan. I'm sure it will cost me so I would like to figure this out if I can. It happened to me once before and I called the dealer and they told me to turn the key 3 times and restart on the 3rd or 4th, I can't remember. The light went away like they said when I did that. That doesn't work now so that leads me beleive it is something worse. Any more suggestions are appreciated.

 

My truck was in the shop today for the "Check Engine" light for the third time. With the light on I didn't notice any performance loss...however, after the second attempt at a fix I did notice a improvement in gas mileage (2.5 mpg).

First Fix - Replaced bad O2 sensors
Second Fix - Replaced EGOS sensor assembly
Third Fix - Replaced EGR sensor assembly

Hopefully that last fix, but I'm not that confident.

Hope this might give you an idea...most likely it isn't doing any damage to the truck, your just polluting the enviroment a little more than you already are.

-Nate

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Black 1999 F-150 XLT Sport 4WD 4.6L V8 (removed 4x4 sport sticker) Reg Cab, SB, Styleside, 3.55 LSD, 5 Speed Manual Trans, Visteon CD-6 changer, Midland CB, Ford/Duraliner Bedliner, Black Westin Nerf Bars

Future Mods - Black Westin Brush Guard and Snuglid Tonneau Cover

 

My light used to come on in the Ranger every trip to Shreveport, LA. The first two times the truck was under warranty and I took it to the dealer there. They replace a HEGO and an EGR. THe problem went away until the trip home and then another HEGO was replaced. Never came on again until the next trip and about the same thing happened. After warranty was up I let it reset itself. It took it about a week or so, or you can disconnect the battery.

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all4chem@aol.com
Y2K XLT Supercab Flareside, Oxford White, Medium Graphite, Captains Chairs, 6-Disc, 5.4L, 3.55LS, Tow Pkg, Block Heater, Sliding Glass, Keyless Entry, 5-Spoke Al Wheels, P235/70R-16 OWL Tires, Clear Corner Lenses, Eaglite Plasma Headlights, Al Striker Plates for the rear doors, Oxford White Lund Interceptor, Line-X Liner.
Ordered: 01-17-00
Built: 02-23-00
Delivered: 03-13-00



[This message has been edited by all4chem (edited 07-05-2000).]

 

It just shut itself off last night. I am out of warranty with 60,000 miles on it. Is it something to be worried about? Is the service person going to just reset it and charge me $100 to do that? It seems like one of those things that you are at their mercy. I am wondering to about my switch in tire size. I went up from 235 to 285. With that big of a change I know I have changed my gear ratio considerably. It was very noticeable when pulling the load. That probably contributed to this problem.

 

I took my truck into the dealer with the light off (see previous post) they could not find anything as my disconnecting the battery-erased the codes. They suggested replacing the fuel filter, also, which I did, yesterday. I've only got 2 wks left on my warranty and both the dealership and Ford, which I called, when the truck was in service, said that if it comes on after my 36k warranty expires, they will not cover the service, even though I had it in prior to the expiration (Light NOT on then). I'm thinking about hooking up the trailer and driving it to try to get it to trip again. Of those 15 or so times the light came on during that 5000 mile vacation (1/2 of the miles pulling it), it came on only with the trailer hooked up. Any suggestions? I really don't want to pay for oxygen sensor (s) and the others if I don't have to.

 

Until the code is picked up again and the MIL is set you will have to wait. Remeber not to take it in for diagnostics until the light is on. Waste of time. yes tow that thisg around and try to cause it. Then go straight there.

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2000 F-250 Super Duty, SuperCab XLT, Oxford white with medium grey cloth captains chairs, 5.4L Triton V8 (260 HP - 345 FP Torque version!), 4R100 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, 4 wheel ABS, Deluxe Aluminum Wheels, Trailer Towing Package, Class IV Hitch, Reece load distribution system, Escort Sensor II Electronic Brake controller, Sure Stop towing skirt, "Westin" black powder coated step bars, "White-White" head lamps, Herculiner bed liner, ISSPRO Tranny Temp Guage, Excursion center console, Ford moulded mud gaurds, K&N Air and Oil filter, Amsoil XL7500 5W-30, Air filter minder, Perma Cool 8" (800 CFM) Tranny Cooler Fan (manualy switched).

 

Well, I pulled my 8000+ lb trailer yesterday for 275 miles (after changing oil/filter, and fuel filter, no check engine light-hope it's the fuel filter, as warranty up in 6 days. (F-250 ld 5.4/3.73 ls, 1997). Just developed a miss this morning--last time it did that it was a coil/plug #4. Taking it in for that and to ck for PS, today

 

It has been a week now since my light turned off on its own. It hasn't come on since. I haven't done any towing. Is the fuel filter replacement very tough to do? Maybe I will do that just to do it.

 

You have to buy a special tool to release the line from the filter. I paid $17 for mine, a lot higher than some have ($10-12) It's a metal sissor like tool with cupped ends that slides between the hose and the metal end of the filter and releases it. (easy) Don't buy the little plastic round device that Auto Zone carries. The hard thing is to roll out the filter from the very strong 7/8 circular clamp that holds the filter. Prying up on the filter by the ends and rolling it out against the bracket (opening it up ) took some strength--I bent the filter badly in removing it. I changed mine without jacking the truck up-so I was in an awkward position though. It would have been easier to have had more room. It's a straight forward job, and easy except, as I said ,the spring steel bracket on my truck was particularly stiff.

[This message has been edited by gdblake (edited 07-12-2000).]

 

You have to buy a special tool to release the line from the filter. I paid $17 for mine, a lot higher than some have ($10-12) It's a metal sissor like tool with cupped ends that slides between the hose and the metal end of the filter and releases it. (easy) Don't buy the little plastic round device that Auto Zone carries. The hard thing is to roll out the filter from the very strong 7/8 circular clamp that holds the filter. Prying up on the filter by the ends and rolling it out against the bracket (opening it up ) took some strength--I bent the filter badly in removing it. I changed mine without jacking the truck up-so I was in an awkward position though. It would have been easier to have had more room. It's a straight forward job, and easy except, as I said ,the spring steel bracket on my truck was particularly stiff.