I have never used this product, but if it does what it says it will do prelube your engine before start-up. Perhaps those rattling problems will go away, because the oil will be circulating before the engine is started. Investigate the site below, there are a few testimonials to validate the performance of this product. It's not an inexpensive product, but it may prolong the life of an engine.

http://www.wefilterit.com/preluber.html

 

interesting, but simply pressurizing an engine will not lubricate it. I would like to know how the oil is spread throughout the engine by the pump, because the mechanical activity of a moving engine is what spreads the oil to all parts. I would think this product would help, but $500? It looks like about 100 in parts. They need to give more
info.

 

David L.

I pondered the pre-luber option myself for a while, and I also needed extra information about how they operate and why one would be needed.

I found that the idea is sound if applied correctly and this is because conventional oils from Group I/II basestocks have such poor intrafluid stability that they can't adhere to the interior parts of an engine very well and slide off after a short while. Thus, upon engine startup, you have massive wear until the oil flows. And as the oil looses its additive package to leeching, evaporation, depletion etc, it gets more viscous and harder to move therefore compounding the problem.

A better method for me was to switch to a quality synthetic engine oil with a good 10 micron oil filter and you counter all of the above effects and no longer have a need for a pre-luber. A good oil would be Amsoil, Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec (Not synthetic but good nonetheless if you aren't running extended drains over 15k).

Just me .02, Randy

 

I found the manufacturer's website, which offers more information. If I am reading their claims correctly the oil is pumped through the oil galleys at 55psi. I would think that kind of pressure would eject oil on to the cylinders wall, and between the bearing surfaces. I also agree that using a good synthetic oil, that can be kept clean can really prolong the life of an engine. I use a Frantz filter, and my oil is filtered down to a tenth of a micron. It is my belief that a well maintained engine and transmission, will last longer than the rest of vehicle.

What I think these kind of add on parts provide for you, is that the engine retains most of its original power, because the parts are less worn down by combustion produced abrasives, and start-up wear. If your engine can with documented evidence run, just as well with over 100,000 miles, as it did when it was new. Then these kind of add on devices pay for themselves over the extended life of a vehicle.

Don't automobile manufacturer's engineer obsolescence in vehicle design, so one will buy another automobile sooner or later? Everything breaks eventually, but I think one can make their vehicle last longer than manufacturer's actuarial cycles predict if we chose to maintain them, and modify them to operate with wear reducing devices.

On my next vehicle I plan to use synthetic oil. If I can find room put three by-pass filters on, one for the oil, the transmission fluid, and one for the coolant. Maybe even a pre-luber. To do that would cost about a thousand dollars, or the cost of one transmission overhaul, or real main seal replacement. However, you choose to look at it.

Let's face it were paying 25,000 to 35,000 post tax dollars for our beloved trucks. Add the financing cost to that amount, then pour yourself a stiff drink. If you figure gross income price of your truck, versus the net income price, calculate the time to raise that kind of money... well you won't like what you see. It's alot of cabbage and time.

With all your getting, get understanding.

http://www.pre-luber.com/

 

Right on David L.!!!

I have a dual-bypass assembly on my Taurus, and will soon be adding a Perma-Cool bypass tranny filter ($45 +/-) just for the reasons that you suggest.

The Pre-Luber was the exact same system that I was looking for, and if you weren't going to use synthetic oil, a bypass filter assembly, and 10 micron filtration (at least) then this would be the way to go. However I think that $1000 is a little steep for the total transfer, and with a pre-luber setup costing approx. $545 for the HD 12v version it may not get you the level of protection that is needed.

Of course if you can get a 'good' conventional oil (which is tough to get mind you...Syntec again) that has acceptable lubricity and sheer strength, then the pre-luber would work really well as it would assist the oil to do what it can't do naturally.

Which answer is better for extreme duration (200K + miles) is a topic for open debate. However, the information that I have would show the synthetics to be a better answer from a wear/protection point of view (especially if using oil analysis and extended drains), whereas the pre-luber/conventional oil may be a more cost-effective option. I would think that the only way a pre-luber could provide maximum protection though, would be to be sure and use at least a Group III basestock conventional oil.

Either way, I think that you come out ahead. I lost my 1988 XLT Lariat at 168k due to garbage oil (excessive engine wear caused the #3, #6, #8 cylinders to go bad). I didn't know then what I know now, and its really too bad because I know that I would still be driving it.....Ahhh the choices we have to make.

Randy