84 Ford F-150 351 Windsor Holley 4-barrell carb

I have replaced:
starter, alternator, battery, battery cables,wires, plugs and checked timing.

After running 10-20 miles it doesn't want to start back up untill it cools off a little. What is wrong with this thing? I don't know anything else that could be wrong.

 

kdgreen,

Sounds like coil to me.

Dana



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1990 F-150 XLT Lariat 5.0L/E4OD
-31 Spline 3.89 Limited Slip 9" Conversion
-Mac Shorty's, 2.5" Flomasters, Hypertech Chip, K&N FIPK, March Underdrive Pullies, MSD Blaster TFI, 160 Thermo...

 

We need more info. What do you mean "doesn't want to start back up"? Does engine crank with the starter OK, but won't start, or won't the starter even crank?
Did it die while running 10-20 miles, or will it not restart after being shut off after that run?
If it's cranking but not restarting after a hot run, the ignition pickup on the side of distributor is a possibility.
The reason I'm asking for more info is because of all the starter, alt., cables stuff you have replaced.

 

Guys: I replaced the coil allready too.

It won't crank after it gets hot. After it sets for 5 minutes, it will crank right up.

 

My old ford truck used to do the same thing. If you bought the starter or coil from discount auto take it back. Some of their stuff is junk. Try Napa . Check the thermostat Maybe its not working or has been taken out. Check radiator cap / radiator. If cap, thermostat, radiator check out put a heat shield by the starter. You may have some source of heat comming from manifold/exhaust. My truck started perfect after the cooling system was checked out and heat shield installed by new starter. It always started first thing in the morning but after a few miles I had to let the engine cool for it to start again. This is just my experience with starters. Your problem maybe somewhere else. Good luck Capt.
Did you check your starter wire? If the battery cables were bad you might have a bad starter wire.Hmm..
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Capt. America..,
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[This message has been edited by CAPT. AMERICA (edited 03-30-2000).]

 

So it won't crank when hot.
When you turn the key, what happens? Do you here a clunk, and if you put the dome light on, does it dim way down, like the starter engaged, but stalled? If so, its probably the starter.
If not, does the relay on the fender by the battery click when you turn the key? May need somebody else to turn the key in order for you to be over there to hear it good.
I would check the small wire to the relay (thats the relay's coil) to see if 12 volts is on it when key in start. If OK, check that the output of the relay (the stud not connected to battery) goes to ~12 volts when key in start. If not, check relay coil ground, it is the mounting bracket, that it is grounded well, could jump a wire from bracket to neg battery as a test if bad ground. If relay has 12 volts coming into coil, ground is good, and it won't pull, turn off ignition and ohm the relay coil. The coil may be opening up under hood heat, so you may have to try that right after you open hood, before it cools.
I have seen starter relays that developed a break in the wire that became tochy with temp.
Since you changed the starter, we assume that the connections doewn there are good.

 

Granpa:

I will try that too see if that is it, also, a friend of mine told me the timing chain could be worn out and that it is not going back to the right time even if it is set right. Could it really move the timing that much that it would affect the starting? I wouldn't think so. My e-mail address is below so we can talk directly if you would like to help me. Any other people with options please let me know. I really like having the old truck around for hauling (my little nissan doesn't pull to good of a load) but if it keeps costing me so much its really not worth it. Thanks to all.

kevin

kdgreen@bellsouth.net

 

Your timing chain is the chain that connects the cam to the crank - it can effect the cam timing (when the valves open) if it is badly stretched. The distributor is driven off of the cam, too, so it could effect the ignition timing also.

A worn timing chain would not prevent the engine from cranking over.

[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 03-30-2000).]

 

That overheating of the starter motor is a real possibility!

It isn't that the starter winds themselves are damaged; there is likely a thermostatic circut breaker to prevent damage to the winds from overcranking (which heats up the motor in the starter). If the starter gets too hot, the thermostat will open the points/circuit to cut the power to the motor in order to protect the winds.

In your case, it could be happening, not from overcranking, but from another heat source. If this internal thermostat is located on the top of the starter and close to the exhaust manifold, and it is overly sensitive, then that is a perfect explanation for this type of (frustrating) intermittent failure that doesn't occur when the engine is colder. If you hear the solenoid click (only once, and not stuttering over and over) when it ain't working right, then I'd check that heat shield/'nother starter option very closely.

It makes a lot of sense to me anyway.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Joe

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2001 SuperCrew 4x4 Lariat 5.4/4-spd auto, 3.55 l/s, elec xfer case, Skids, Class III tow, Stock 17"s, Oxford White/Med Graphite leather capts chairs, Rhinolined
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[This message has been edited by 1stSuperCrew (edited 03-30-2000).]

 

Here's one that hasn't even been mentioned. If you have a overheating problem(as in the thermostat shut), the temperature sending switch will shut down the fuel pump to protect the engine if the heat is high enough, possibly even override the'failsafe cooling' mode that is on the engine. Engine will crank, but will not start (no fuel). same thing with oil pressure sensor.
consider before replacing the switch, that while most of us are poking around in the engine bay, you might have knocked loose the connection to these switches, or the sensor has gone bad prematurely. Had a car a few years ago that used to strand me and my wife after it overheated, but couldn't figure out why it was shutting down the fuel pump.

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