Help......

OK, give me the ole horse laff.......First time FF change...

99SC 4.6l

Got the metal 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool....Pep boys.

Saw thead awhile back on this....did reread it..

What am i doing wrong...i insert tool into the connector on end of fuel line that goes into(snaps on) the fuel filter....

Ive pushed forwards and backwards with tool inserted all i get is big resistance, it want budge... I did relieve fuel line pressure....I disconnected the pump shut off...ran engine till it died...even if maybe a little pressure was still in line..seems like it should still pop loose??

Not as strong as i used to be, but man...what am i doing wrong?
Did i get wrong size tool? Or is it just that hard to release line?

Thanks.....OT

 

I hear ya oldtimer.....

Just did mine for the first time a couple weeks ago. I sprayed some WD-40 into the clips because I found there to be dirt and crap in it. Then just worked the tool around until it worked the crud out and used a screw driver as a lever to give it just a bit more pushing leverage (don't need much pressure). You do have to pull kinda hard on the lines, because it's still slipping over a rubber hose.

The biggest PITA was getting to old filter out of that damn clamp thing that holds it to the frame! Ended up bending the hell out of the old filter. Make sure you put the new filter in the correct way! You don't want to have to remove it again!

Good Luck!

 

Old Timer,

Just last week I replaced the fuel filter in my '97 5.4. The method you used to remove fuel pressure doesn't work on the '97, but it does work on '98+ so that shouldn't be the problem. You did unhook the clamps that hold the lines on right? I'm sure you did since that's sort of obvious. After that is where I also ran into trouble.

The way the Chilton and Hayne's manual documents the procedure it led me to believe that the lines would come off easily with the proper tool... Not so. You have to push the fuel line disconnect tool in far enough to feel the spring locks disengage, and then while holding in the disconnect tool, pull off the fuel line. This will probably take some fancy arm positioning as the line does not come off easily. You will have to put considerable force on it, but don't yank! Just pull firmly and slowly and you should feel the line moving off the filter neck.

Also, I found it helpful to bunch up a shop towel behind the filter tool to catch any fuel that spurts out of the line. My '97 soaked up three towels.

Let me know if this helps!

Rob

 

Just remembered something else after reading MitchF150's response...

The fuel filter clamp is crazy tight. I have no idea how to use a screwdriver to pry the filter clamp open as stated in the Chilton's manual... I couldn't figure it out.

I pretty much just used my left thumb on the top right of the clamp and my right thumb on the bottom right of the clamp to spread it about 1/2 inch above and below the filter. While doing that, I used the rest of my fingers to pull it out slightly and slide the filter to the left simultaneously. Once the ring is out of the notch in the clamp, you can forcefully slide it out the left side of the clamp.

Before I put the new filter in, I did something some people may disapprove of... I used both my hands to spread the clamp a little to make it easier to insert the new filter. I lined up the new filter in the clamp and just pushed it in, being careful to push evenly so as not to put dents in the filter. Hopefully the clamp is still tight enough to hold the filter securely!

Hope this helps!

 

on my L(same filter -wish it were bigger). Also did the one on my 97 xlt. What helps is to push the line connector towards the filter and then press the tool into the connector.

Btw, I bot my tool at Pep Boys too so it should(?) be the same as yours--use the 'smaller' end(don't remember the size), not the 3/8" end.

Dan

 

Thanks to all!

OK....so back under truck....With you guys and me.

3/8" tool was correct one. Your right, combination of push/insert tool/pull.....Slipped right off.....

After i got first line off, i did look inside the fitting..saw the spring locks..then realized how that worked...(what i was doing wrong) geez! :O

Some gas came out, not alot, but did have rags etc to catch it.

FF bracket was held on by one bolt & nut (thru frame.) I loosened that so when i got lines off, i just took filter/bracket out, installed new filter into bracket and put back in place.

2 fuel lines went right on, snap! Put safety clips back on......Reconnected pump shut off......Fired up, no leaks.

Thanks again......Good luck to all.......OT

 

It can happen to anyone OT. I recently replaced a rear tank on my '95. I went ahead and did the filter, no problem.

The tank lines were another story. One can off OK. The other kicked my butt! One of my buddies came over (after ragging on me about my lack of ability) and got his butt kicked also.

As a last effort tried another line tool and it came right off.....

 

Hey Old Timer!

Some of these "kids" know their *****, eh?

 

looks like i got here a little late. glad it worked out for you. recently did mine as well. sure isn't as easy as in the old days

 

I also had one heck of a time when I replaced mine last year. Tried to do it this year and gave up, couldn't get lines off. When I changed it last year before I put the new one in I lubed the inside of the bracket and the fuel filter with silicone grease that I use on the rubber weather striping. That helped alot slid right in and then I wiped it off.

 

At 37k, I replaced the fuel filter in my 99 for the first time last night. Took less than 3 minutes, shut off switch and all, but I did read up on it a bit before hand. The Mororcraft fuel filter FG986B at a dealer was $19.60. Found a metal, scissors type, disconnect tool at Advance Auto Parts for $4.99. Napa wanted $14 for a plastic scissors type tool and $12 for a set of AC line disconnec discs.

Now, for next time, where can I get a quality fuel filter for less than $19.60.

 

$8.05 at http://www.fordpartsonline.com/ for my F150.

Take care,
-Chris

 

Thanks, ouch, maybe I'll be able to sit down again soon, hehehehe.

 

OK, why does the Chilton's manual say that pulling the connector on the fuel inertia safety switch will not work a 97 model F150, EXP, etc. The Haynes manual does not make this kind of note but then again the Haynes manual is a little older. I have never tried it so I am not for sure.

 

Way to go OT. For all you guys that haven't done this yet, just remember when you put the fuel lines back on, push them on untill you here a click from those retainer clips engaging.