i have accidently posted in eletrical but have transferrred my opst here .i am not sure if the brake fluid spill was conicadental or what but it hasnt started since then .90 f150 is the truck at hand
i have changed the coil,module(on side of distributer),and the half moon thingy in the distributer. still no spark.i have spilled brake fluid on my harness connections. that has been 3 wks ago. i cleaned them dried them and even cursed at them.i am currently lookin for a main fuse that may have blown.i hardly think that its the computer due to the fact it was runnin b4 i spilled the fluid and it hasnt ran since i spilled it. any help would be great ty.
buckshot06

 

I can't believe the good cussin didn't work.

 

Sometimes you have to kick it too.

Seriously though, even with a dead computer you would still have spark, just no fuel being injected. You need to look for blown fuses and fusible links. A fusible link looks like a regular piece of wire but when too much current passes through it the wire burns up. Even when the links have shorted out it may still look like a normal wire but if you tug on it it will be stretchy. Try and get a wiring diagram that shows there location.

Did you check the ballast resistor? It should be somewhere along one of the wires that goes to the coil.

Otherwise get a continuity tester and poke around to see where the short is. Get a test light and see if you are getting power to the low voltage side of the coil.

Good Luck

-Jon

 

Since I don't know what engine you have, I'll do this as generic as possible.
All the gas engines have 2 relays below the master cylinder under the black plastic cover labeled EEC RELAY and FUEL PUMP relay.
You need to see with a test light or Digital Multi Meter if you are getting power to the relays. The LARGE YELLOW WIRE on both relays are power wires coming from the FUSE LINKS over by the starter relay next to the battery. IF you are not getting power to the YELLOW WIRES, Check the fuse links. There are (ready for this?) 5 fuse links that feed LARGE YELLOW WIRES. Now 2 ways to check for a damaged fuse link. 1. Wiggle the link, it should feel like a regular wire. If one or more feel mushy or real soft, sometimes a black spot or dot will appear on the outside. The link is junk at that point. Sometimes a parts store or auto electrical shop will sell the link by the foot. The 5 fuse links for the YELLOW WIRES are 20 Gauge (FORD) Blue.
If the fuse link is blown, you will need to find out why or the new link will blow also. Sometimes the routing from the starter relay to the EEC or FUEL PUMP relay will cause the problem.
Well if you have power to the relays, on the EEC relay you 4 wires, (there may be 2 LARGE YELLOW WIRES which will make it 5 on the relay) the RED wire is the output wire that powers up the fuel pump relay, the injectors, several of the emissions devices including the Idle Air Bypass Valve Solenoid, also power to the computer to wake it up. You can hold the relay, have someone turn on the ignition switch and you can feel the relay come on. You can also bypass the relay by jumpering the yellow and the red wires in the connector. If you can fire up the engine, the relay may be the problem. The Red/Light Green wire to the EEC relay comes from the ign switch pin I1. No power here from the switch means no start. Remember the Red/Light Green wire feeds the TFI Module and the IGN coil, so you will have spark.
If the EEC relay is working, (power will be at the Fuel Injectors and the I.A.C. Valve) make sure the fuel pump relay is working, by listening to the pump working when the ign switch is turned to the run position. Listen by the fuel tank, have someone turn the key to run, for 2 seconds the pump will run. If no pulses are received by the computer, it shuts off the fuel pump relay, but the EEC relay stays on. The EEC has a black wire which is connected to Ground.
If you do not hear the pump working, Jumper the YELLOW and BROWN wire at the connector. If the pump now works, the relay could be bad or not getting the signal power from the red wire or ground from the computer on the Tan/Light Green wire. You can also Manually Ground the Tan/Light Green wire at the fuel pump relay, the pump will run until the jumper is removed or the Ign switch turned off.
I wish I had a scanner, I could send the wiring diagram to you, hope some of this helps.
Mike C.

 

ty all for help.
i have a 5.0 engine.i have since dble checked the fuse links and will check the eec thingy.if i have power to coil and distributer so does that mean that the eec is good?off to try somem more stuff
ty fopr help
buck

 

Buck:
If you have coil power and spark, the ign switch is sending power to the coil, the distributor (TFI) module is turning on and off the coil so you get spark. The Coil gets power from the Ign Switch
a n d provides power to the EEC relay. Like I said, hold the relay and have someone turn on the ign switch. If you feel the relay click, the ign is turning on the relay. Power must (at that point) flow from the YELLOW wire to the RED wire and out to the Computer (on pins 37 and 57 and stay powered up until the switch is turned off), the E4OD Transmission (Pin 1 and 2), the Fuel pump relay on the RED wire, the Fuel Injectors Red Wire, the Idle Air Control Valve Solenoid, and the Egr Control Solenoid, the Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid, the Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid (TAB), the Canister Purge Solenoid. All these parts that get power from the EEC relay are getting it on their RED wire's and the power will be there, until you turn off the ign switch.
The Ign Coil and the TFI module do N O T get power from the EEC relay.
Mike C.

 

10-4 mike i mssread all the info .i also got info from garage saying that if my check engine light doesNOT come on when i turn the key on i have a short between someting(i have to call tomorow and see what he said . i will do what you last suggested ty for you help.
buck

 

ill start with ty again
i have a 5.0 engine
ok mike i did what you said but at the begining of your last reply it says got power and spark well i dont have spark now listen to what i have done since then .i have no click where you told me to hold i remember b4 my probs occured hearin the click you are talikn about.
i have talked to ford garage and unfortunately didnt get guys name..again.he told me to check to see if my check engine lite comes on mine DOOES NOT come on. does this mean i have a short some where? the ford garage denies or has no intention of continuing the conversation they want 73 bucks to bring it in well i live 40 miles from nearest ford garage so pile opn towing so please if someone could continue with this lil lesson im having i would appreciate it ty
buckshot06

 

buckshot
I have seen posts about fuses near or under the master cylinder area that may be for the engine computer.I had a 90 & really never noticed. you might check it out. it sounds like your computer lost power.
good luck

 

Buckshot:
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I "finally" read your last message. Now its definite. No clicking at the EEC relay and no "CHECK ENGINE" light. This believe it or not, makes it easier.
Now.
1st thing you do is get your test light, put the probe side into the coil + side, the other side of the light to battery ground. Make sure your battery is fully charged (12.6 volts or greater).
Turn on the ign switch. THE LIGHT MUST LIGHT BRIGHTLY! If you have a DIGITAL MULTIMETER (DMM) it must read battery voltage with the ign switch on! If it reads more then 1/2 volt less then battery voltage, there is a problem in the wiring or the switch.
For example. Key On Eng Off coil + Power reads 12.2. The battery power reads 12.5. It is within .5 volts, no problem so far.
If the light does not come on or the voltage at the coil is w a y less then battery voltage or at zero volts, disconnect the coil connector that contains the two wires. If the voltage now shows battery volts or the light comes on bright, I would check the ign coil from each terminal to ground. You may have a problem there.
If the light still does not come on with the coil connector removed from the coil, you have a bad ign switch or a wiring problem. You would have to "signal trace" from the coil connector to the ign switch to the battery to check connections and wiring.
If you have battery power with the coil connector hooked up to the coil, now connect the DMM or test light to the other wire coming out of the coil, not the thick spark wire going to the dist.
Turn the engine over. The test light should change intensity. It actually should turn on and off or you should see at least a dim light that looks like its flickering.
If you get that, the dist, the ign module and the primary ign circuit are all working.
If you still aren't getting spark to the dist, I would say the coil is bad.
One of the things I found with the 90 F series vehicles we have at work is the ign switch had a recall. It meant changing the switch. Not the ign lock in the column, but the actual switch contact part located on the "topside of the column" down near the floor. Seems the switch liked to separate the plastic from the metal parts. This can cause a no start or intermittent loss of spark/fuel/engine while driving. Remember, the ign switch turns on the EEC relay on pin I1 (wire color Red/Light Green) at the ignition switch. So if the relay is not clicking, and you do not see battery power at the Red/Light Green wire and ground on the EEC relay, possibility the ign switch is the problem. I have to do this at work. Its a step-by-step procedure, so I hope I'm not boring you or losing you with this testing.
If you want to shortcut things, try this. Turn on the ign switch, check for battery power at the coil + . If you get spark from the coil to the plugs, but no start, remove the EEC relay from its connector, jumper the YELLOW wire to the RED wire. If the engine now starts, the relay is bad or its not getting power from the ign switch to the relay on the Red/Light Green wire.
Remember the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT? For that light to work, power from the Ignition switch I1 (RED/LIGHT GREEN WIRE) to fuse #15 and the one we want, #18 which goes to pins B5 and A13 of the Instrument cluster. From B5 it goes to several lights one of them is the CHECK ENGINE (C.E.) light. From the C.E. light it goes out pin B9 (Pink/Light Green wire) to pin #17 of the Computer "A N D" the SELF TEST (gray I think is the color) CONNECTOR. Thats the one you read the codes from. You will see the Pink/Light Green wire at the test connector. If you ground the Pk/Lt Grn and the check engine light comes on, the computer is not grounding it, either because power from the EEC relay is not going to pins 37 "AND" 57 on the RED wire, or possibly the GROUNDS on pins 40 and 60 are not making it back to BATTERY GND. You can check that with the DMM.
I know this is long, I hope it helps some, you can email me directly if you want, I check back to this post later.
Mike C.

 

WOW ILL PRINT THAT OUT AND TRY TOMOROW AFTERNOON TY FOR HELP