I've got a 1987 F150, 70K miles, 6 cyl, with an intermittent starting problem that has been going on for about 4-5 months now. Sometimes when turning the key to start the engine, all I get is a click and I have to turn the key off then on again several times to eventually get it started.

The battery and alternator are about 5 months old and I've checked all battery cables from the battery to the relay to the starter and they all look good. I even removed the cable where it connected to the starter, cleaned the connection real good and tapped the starter several times with the ratchet (my buddy recommended tapping it).

The problem is getting to the point now where this afternoon I had to turn the key about 25 times before it would start, so I have to start replacing some parts before I get stranded. What makes this such a difficult problem is that it's so intermittent. This afternoon it took 25 turns of the key but this evening it started the first time.

I'm thinking the two likely culprits are the starter itself or the cable from the relay to the starter. Any thoughts?

 

If the lights and everything go off when you hear the click after turning the key, it is probably the battery, but check the cables first. They may be good, but take them loose from the battery terminals and clean them and the terminals and put them back on. If this isn't it, try bridging the relay, I don't know if you know how to do this or not, so I will explain it. Turn your key to the "on" position, make sure the truck is not in gear, and take a long screwdriver and make it a bridge across the two terminals sticking out from the relay. If the truck starts this way, then replace the relay (solenoid) and it should be okay. If this doesn't work, check the starter itself, sometimes, if you have a manual transmission, laeving the truck in gear and pushing it (by hand) just enough to make it drift a little bit back and forth helps it to start. Just my experiences, though. Good luck!

 

sure sounds like the solenoid

 

Mike,
You mentioned that you checked the cables to the battery and they "looked" good. Did you remove the negative cable to the battery and clean the post and cable end shiny clean? If so, then I agree that it must be the solenoid.

 

I just had this same problem in my 93 Aerostar. What you guys are calling the soleniod is relay just a starter relay and yes you can start it by bridging the connection posts. If your tuck is set up the same as my Aerostar thers is also a solenoid on the side of the starter. In my case that is what was faulty. If you have a smaller guage like 14 or something going from the start relay to the starter then you have the same setup.

 

Thanks for your replies guys. But you really think it's the relay since I am hearing a "click" each time it doesn't start? I'm far from an expert mechanic. I'm also getting conflicting information in my shop manual vs. my Haynes manual.

Haynes says "If, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor doesn't operate at all but the starter relay operates (clicks), then the problem lies with the battery, the starter relay contacts, or the starter motor connections". All these look good.

My shop manual says:
Engine will not crank -- starter relay clicks:

1. Loose cable connections at relay or starter. Clean and tighten connections, check wire strands in eyelets. These look good
2.Undercharged battery. Check battery, change or replace. Battery is recent.
3.Starter motor. Repair or replace as required. Bingo

Thoughts???

 

Does the problem occur when the engine is hot or cold, or does it matter? I have seen problems with the relay opening when the engine is hot and working fine after it cools down for a while.
Hope this helps.

 

Again if the F150 is wired like my Aerostar I had this same problem. The box near the battery is not a soleniod but a relay. Yes it will click as mine did and the starter was not turning. There was 12V to the starter which has a soleniod on the side of it. Since it was bust the starter would not turn.

 

If you would like to test the cables and have a volt meter it very simple. Do a voltage drop test. Put the + lead of the meter on the + battery terminal, put - lead on the battery terminal of the starter and activate the circuit. Read meter set on 20v scale. A good connection from battery to starter will be less than .5 tenths. Do the same for ground side. meter - on battery - and meter + on cable ground attaching point on block. Activate circuit. Read meter. All combined readings need to be below .5 volts. If you have a high reading start back up the circuit towards the battery and retest at every connection along the way. When the reading drops into a good voltage drop reading you have found between which 2 points the bad part of the circuit is.

 

Mike,

If your relay is clicking on the firewall, it would either be the trigger wire (wire from relay on firewall to relay on starter/14awg)
or the starter its self. Ford only sell there starters W/the relay.
they also sell a trigger wire pigtail which replaces the terminal,
which Ive seen many times get a corrosion type film on it. If you brought your truck to my shop I would check the trigger wire first.
if ok then your truck would have a new starter on it. Im sure it would be fixed. Many times when a starter is replaced we also replace the trigger wire, for preventive maintanance reasons. the cost of the wire is approximately $5-$10. But could save a $30-$50 tow bill. I see this concern alot and 99% of the time these two parts fix the problem. Goodluck and happy motoring.

Dave

 

Thanks for your suggestions guys:

astuber: I haven't been able to pin it down whether the engine is hot or cold. I live in Florida where it's always hot. But if I had to say, I'd guess starting in the morning has always been fine.

CanadianSCrew: You're absolutely right about whether it's a relay or selonoid. I believe in my case all I have is a relay that is mounted up on the fender next to the battery. I followed the cable to the starter and there's only one connection on the starter itself, no selonoid down near the starter.

nitro94: Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't have volt meter and have never used one.

 

Mike
have you checked the negative battery cable where it bolts to the engine? I have seen a bad connection there cause similar problems. I have never seen a bad solenoid in those earlier vehicles and a bad starter always has made a whirring or buzz or growl. Your trouble sounds a lot like cables or connections.

 

Negative battery cable connection...check the battery post and engine block connection. You just had the battery changed 5 months ago...start with the battery side of the neg cable first!!!

 

hey Mike, I apoligize I miss read your truck year I was thinking it was a 97 My bad, sorry for the bad info , will be more careful in the future. The bottom line is if you don't have the tools to test
(dvom, test lite, load tester for starter draw test, your just going to be able to throw parts at your truck, If nothing visable I would still go with the starter.


Dave

 

Check your thread in the pre 97 message board.

Take care,
-Chris