Changing to Synthetic
OK, I'm convinced and ready to change my truck over to synthetic oil.
The question I have is: Do I need to do anything special, like flushing the motor, when I put Mobil 1 in for the first time or can I just exchange synthetic for petroluem based? Do the regular motorcraft filters work adequately with synthetic?
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2000 F-150 XLT Sport, Silver 4-door Supercab
Short Bed (Only way to fit in the garage)
17" Sport Wheels with BFG tires, 3.55 LS
4.6l V8, Auto (First one in 20 years)
In-Dash Single CD Player, K&N Filter
Hopes and Dreams:
Superchip, Spray-in bedliner, WMS Velocity Tube
FlowMaster Exhaust, Nerf Bars
The question I have is: Do I need to do anything special, like flushing the motor, when I put Mobil 1 in for the first time or can I just exchange synthetic for petroluem based? Do the regular motorcraft filters work adequately with synthetic?
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2000 F-150 XLT Sport, Silver 4-door Supercab
Short Bed (Only way to fit in the garage)
17" Sport Wheels with BFG tires, 3.55 LS
4.6l V8, Auto (First one in 20 years)
In-Dash Single CD Player, K&N Filter
Hopes and Dreams:
Superchip, Spray-in bedliner, WMS Velocity Tube
FlowMaster Exhaust, Nerf Bars
http://www.exxon.mobil.com/mobil1_ra...est/index.html
Check out the above link there is a picture of a oil pan that has run conventional, and one with synthetic.
You should do an engine flush before you switch to reduce the risk of clogging your oil filter because when you put the synthetic in, it will begin to clean your internals and all of that sludge and varnish will go to your filter.
I recommend all folks to do an engine flush that have over 10,000 miles. http://www.amsoil.com/products/aef.html
The above listed stuff works really well and is easy to use, just put the whole can into your engine with the old oil, then run the engine(without driving it) at a fast idle for 15-20 minutes. Immediatly drain the oil and All of the nasty stuff will come out.
Then you are ready to put in your favorite synthetic and drive on!
As far as filters go, Motorcraft filters are okay, but if you want more efficiency, look at either the mobil 1 or Amsoil or Pure 1 or the new fram extra guard. All of these filters are over 94% effeciency. This means that it can stop smaller particles of dirt, and is some cases down to 5 microns. Most normal filters can only go down to 20 microns. These better filters will keep you oil cleaner and help it last longer.
I have a couple of good postings on my forum that deal with synthetic oil you might want to check out.-Thanks
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Lube-Direct
New Lubrication Forums
[This message has been edited by msparks (edited 03-16-2000).]
Check out the above link there is a picture of a oil pan that has run conventional, and one with synthetic.
You should do an engine flush before you switch to reduce the risk of clogging your oil filter because when you put the synthetic in, it will begin to clean your internals and all of that sludge and varnish will go to your filter.
I recommend all folks to do an engine flush that have over 10,000 miles. http://www.amsoil.com/products/aef.html
The above listed stuff works really well and is easy to use, just put the whole can into your engine with the old oil, then run the engine(without driving it) at a fast idle for 15-20 minutes. Immediatly drain the oil and All of the nasty stuff will come out.
Then you are ready to put in your favorite synthetic and drive on!
As far as filters go, Motorcraft filters are okay, but if you want more efficiency, look at either the mobil 1 or Amsoil or Pure 1 or the new fram extra guard. All of these filters are over 94% effeciency. This means that it can stop smaller particles of dirt, and is some cases down to 5 microns. Most normal filters can only go down to 20 microns. These better filters will keep you oil cleaner and help it last longer.
I have a couple of good postings on my forum that deal with synthetic oil you might want to check out.-Thanks
------------------
Lube-Direct
New Lubrication Forums
[This message has been edited by msparks (edited 03-16-2000).]
Just drain and refill with Mobil 1. I did at 1245 miles. You'll be OK.
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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, 2000 "XLT" wheels, 4.10 gears, Auburn LS, Clarion In-dash CD player, Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars.
2000 4x2 F150 XLT Reg. Cab LWB- 5.4L, Tow Pkg, 3.55LS, CD player,Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, Special Appearance Pkg., tinted windows, Line-X bedliner, and Prime #155 wheels.
http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo
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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, 2000 "XLT" wheels, 4.10 gears, Auburn LS, Clarion In-dash CD player, Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars.
2000 4x2 F150 XLT Reg. Cab LWB- 5.4L, Tow Pkg, 3.55LS, CD player,Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, Special Appearance Pkg., tinted windows, Line-X bedliner, and Prime #155 wheels.
http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo
I agree that Mobil 1 should be fine at 1200 miles. DONT flush engine. Just drain factory fill oil and install new filter. If Mobil 1 is ok for my 99 covette than Ithink its ok for my F150. IMO
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00 F150 spt/reg flrside
99 Corvette cpe
99 VW passat (wifes)
99 Toyota (sons)
99 HD fxdwg
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00 F150 spt/reg flrside
99 Corvette cpe
99 VW passat (wifes)
99 Toyota (sons)
99 HD fxdwg
You don't need to flush unless you have more than 10k on the engine.
I was recommending 20k on the engine then the flush, but I read a post that someone did it with 10k and alot of gunk came out afterwards. I'm sure it depends on the type of oil that you use.
Good luck.
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Lube-Direct
New Lubrication Forums
I was recommending 20k on the engine then the flush, but I read a post that someone did it with 10k and alot of gunk came out afterwards. I'm sure it depends on the type of oil that you use.
Good luck.
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Lube-Direct
New Lubrication Forums


