Ok,I dont know alot about mods to the air induction system.First of all I dont like the Airaid or the K&N replacement systems because I dont want to feed my engine hot air,I only want cold outside air using the factory box,so what choises do I have?I can get a square K&N filter that much I know.Second what is envolved with removing the silencer,what goes in its place,anything?Third,I have seen aftermarket Mass Air Flow Sensors,Do they do much if anything?Any help would be great!!!!

[This message has been edited by F150LowDown (edited 02-01-2000).]

 

What model & year truck do you have?

 

F150lowdown,

What year truck do you have? If it's a 97 or newer, your air filter should be a round cone shaped filter. If that is the case I know of two options, the WMS Velocity Tube, that retains the stock airbox and filter (or replacement K&N filter) and replaces the stock elbow with a large volume elbow between the air bor and throttle body. It also replaces the stock small diameter snorkel that goes through the fender well with a larger diameter tube. This is the setup I have and really like the results. It's also about half the price of the others. The only other option I know of thet will give you the cool air is the Volant Cool Air Intake System, and I don't know anything about it, have just seen it advertised in magazines. Try these web sites:

Western Motor Sports - http://www.wmsracing.com/f150pkg.html

Volant - http://www.volantintakes.com

Hope this helps!

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Paul...
99 F-150 XLT SC Sport, 4.6L, Auto, Captain Chairs, Class III Towing Package, 3.55 LS, Sliding Rear Window, White, 4X2, CD, Soft Factory Tonneau Cover, K&N Filter, WMS Velocity Tube, Line-X Spray on Bed Liner, Gibson Side Swept Cat Back System, F150online Decal...
Flip Chip on it's way!

ptarnuzzer@megsinet.net

 

MAF's. Don't bother (assuming you have a 97+ model). The MAF in my 5.4 is plenty large enough to not be a hindrance. I had a 93 SHO, which had a 55 mm MAF from the factory. Super restrictive. Ford designed it to reflect the intake sound back into the manifold. I swapped it out for a Vortech 73 mm MAF. Very noticable difference, only because of the huge difference in airflow. Go with the WMS velocity tube. I'm happy with the performance and it looks cool too.

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99 XLT Black Ex-cab, Flareside, 5.4, ORP, 3.73, Gibson Supertruck, K&N, Superchip, WMS Velocity Tube, Modified Airbox, Slap-Free Motor at @19k

 

Sorry,how dumb of me it is a 98XLT with 4.6 V8!Yes I will try the velocity tube later when budget allows but how do I remove the silencer,does anything go in its place?as I will want to just use a K&N and remove the silencer for now.Thanks

[This message has been edited by F150LowDown (edited 02-01-2000).]

 

Remove the stock "elbow" and reach up inside with your hand. You'll be able to "feel" the inside tube- the elbow is of a double-wall type construction. Some have reported being able to just pull the inner section out. Others, like myself, have had to cut it out. I used a Dremmel tool.

 

Nomo,
Did you notice any difference in performance getting rid of the silencer inside the stock tube? Just wondering because I need something to tide me over till I can afford the WMS V.T.. Also did you have to reset the computer to match the change? If so how did you do it? Any help is appreciated.

Bones

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2000 F-150, XLT, 4X2, Ext. Cab, S/B, 4.6L, 3.55 L/S, Tow Package, Premium Sound CD Player.

Future Mods: NONE, I'm broke.

[This message has been edited by Bones (edited 02-02-2000).]

 

Bones,

You can reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes then re-connecting it!

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Paul...
99 F-150 XLT SC Sport, 4.6L, Auto, Captain Chairs, Class III Towing Package, 3.55 LS, Sliding Rear Window, White, 4X2, CD, Soft Factory Tonneau Cover, K&N Filter, WMS Velocity Tube, Line-X Spray on Bed Liner, Gibson Side Swept Cat Back System, F150online Decal...
Flip Chip on it's way!

ptarnuzzer@megsinet.net

 

Removing the silencer had very little effect on performance. Perhaps a slight increase in throttle response when cruising down the highway. Removing the filter housing (sucking in hot air as you say) gave the most benefit of the "free" induction mods.

I always reset the ECU after any mod.

Neal

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1997 4x4 Expedition- 4.6L, true dual exhaust w/glass-packs, K&N air filter, SuperChip, airbox mods, Edelbrock shocks, 285/75R16 BFG ATs, Optima "T-Bone" wheels, Clarion In-dash CD player, Smitty Bilt push bars and nerf bars!!

2000 4x2 F150 XLT Reg. Cab LWB- 5.4L, Tow Pkg, 3.55LS, CD player,Remote Keyless Entry, Sliding back glass, Special Appearance Pkg.

http://members.visualcities.com/NoMo

 

Thanks

 

F150LowDown,
If you just remove the inner tube in the elbow, your improvement will be minimal. For best results you need to gut the elbow and replace the 2" snorkel from the airbox to the inner fender with a 3" tube and get a K&N filter. I used a piece of hard rubber plumbers pipe bought at my local hardware store. I was able to remove the inner elbow without cutting.
Results? Improved milage by 1.2mpg, smoother acceleration, smoother trany shift.
From reading all the other threads I think my results are the exception rather than the rule.
Total cost 1 1/2 hrs, $3.00 for pipe and $45.00 for K&N filter.

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1999 Harvest Gold F-150 4x2 SuperCab XLT Styleside, 4.6, Auto, Air box Mods, Tow Pkg, Alarm, Snug-Top Hard Tonneau cover(painted to match), 6-disk Pioneer CD changer, Kenwood Tri-Band Ham radio (2m,440,220), Billet grille, Bug Deflector, Clear corner lights, tinted front windows.

Planned Mods: Cat back exhaust, Headers, Superchip, 2/3 inch lower.

 

Rule of thumb here is:

Make sure you go with something that provides fresh "cool" air!

I am not sure if a larger intake snorkel/tube would help or not?? It can't hurt!

As for resetting the computer...Whats this 15 minute thing all about? Do you in fact know this? I would think MAYBE 45 nanoseconds.... I thought 10 seconds was more than adequate to clear the current dynamic settings from the programs??? I'd have to go back to my old digital electronics book... But I think I'm right! UNLESS, they have some sort of internal 15 minute power source....



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Rand

 

Internal/inherent capacitance of the circuits requires some time to discharge and "reset" the ECU. Remember, it ramps down in a non-linear fashion.

I've never had any luck with quick disconnect times. It's over-kill, but I usually leave the cable off overnight.

 

Like nomo said, allow for capacitance to discharge! As for an actual time, 15 minutes is pretty much the outside limit of my patience!

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Paul...
99 F-150 XLT SC Sport, 4.6L, Auto, Captain Chairs, Class III Towing Package, 3.55 LS, Sliding Rear Window, White, 4X2, CD, Soft Factory Tonneau Cover, K&N Filter, WMS Velocity Tube, Line-X Spray on Bed Liner, Gibson Side Swept Cat Back System, F150online Decal...
Flip Chip on it's way!

ptarnuzzer@megsinet.net

 

Last summer I replaced my father's Powerstroke intake with an open element intake. I replaced the black plastic tubing with flex tubing and mounted a big K&N cone air filter on the end of it. For cooling purposes I wrapped the flex tubing with reflective heat tape. WOW!!! What an inprovement! Increased fuel mileage, throttle respnse, and happiness. When it shifts you can hear the air rush right out! As far as hot air intake- with the old setup, the black box would get so hot, it hurt to put your hand on it! Black absorbs heat anyway. With the new setup, I can lay my hand on the flextubing and it is luke warm. Filter does require a little more maintenance, but the added benefits sure are worth it!!
I'm now getting ready to try my 5.4 this spring. Will be a little more difficult, but it should be worth it too!

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1999 F-250LD 4X4 XLT Supercab SB, 5.4L, AT, 3.73LS, 33"Wrangler ATS, Dual Exhaust, custom air intake, Color: Harvest Gold cc "Ready to Farm"