Even thought I don't own a Ford, Maybe I can give you some ideas. I have a 98 chevy ext-cab Z-71 with the 5.7L. About two Months ago my truck seemed to lose power and started pinging. I ended up taking it to the dealer. They said everything looked fine on the Tech II scanner. They couldn't tell me anything. The other night I decided to check my plug wires at night with the truck warmed up to see if I was getting any arching. I was getting alot of arching on the driver's side wires and my coil was arching in the middle of the coil body. I replaced my wires, coil, plugs, distributor cap & rotor. This fixed my power problem and my pinging seems to be gone. My truck only has 34,000 miles on it. Check all of your ignition components. Unless you are getting a misfire condition, the dealers scanner won't pick out bad wires or coil.

 

Well, I don't know if ping is the same as clatter, but I experienced pre-ignition clattering and the Ford dealer removed an octane compensator that corrected the problem. They explained that I might lose some power, but I didn't really notice. It was a small gray "plug" at the end of a cable on the driver's side near the firewall. I threw the "plug" in my console in case I ever decided to replace it, but I have done without it for two years with no problem. I also tried 93 octane for a tankful, and the check engine light came on until I refueled with 87 octane.

 

garrisob:
Yeah, the clatter you refer to is it alright. What's the year and engine size of your truck? The reason I ask is that we're all ready to try just about anything. Also, what did that 'plug' look like? Was there any mileage changes?

 

MitchF150
This past weekend I had a chance to rip apart a demo 4.6 (I'm assuming it was a Windsor) and it did have a knock sensor under the intake manifold (plenum) between the valve covers on top of the block.

 

defacto

There is a cable that comes out of a cable harness directly behind the battery on the firewall. The cable goes nowhere, but in the end of it there is a gray plug. The part number on the plug is E53B 14A624-0. It is 1/2 X 1/2 X 3/4".

I have a 4.6L in a '97 4X4. I haven't noticed any gas mileage change, still about 15 MPG no matter what. It definitely addressed the clatter, though. I figure that it adjusts the fuel/air mixture. Check it out and you'll be pleased!!

 

See the reply I just posted to DEFACTO:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...252#post408252

 

defacto:

Thanks for the update. I guess since no codes are thrown indicating a problem with the sensor (P0326-P0334), that's why a dealer hasn't checked it. Too bad there is no way to tell what the timing is set to? It's probably advanced too much for whatever reason.

Good luck guys.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I've removed the shorting bar and this has almost totally eliminated the knock but I'm not sure this is the way to go so I'll get the engine flush done next week and I'll keep every one posted.

 

Talk to Mike Troyer in the Chips forum about your computer code for the details. Basically, that code was designed for a light F-150.

If you could convince your dealer to reflash your computer with a different program, there's a good chance the pinging will disappear. The problem with removing the shorting bar is you will lose performance and mpg because what you're doing is retarding the ignition.

 

Dennis:
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of; I don't want to do that to the timing really. I'm gonna take mine in and see what codes it throws out. BTW, how much does it cost (If I have to pick up the cost) to have the chip flash anyway? If that's the problem (which appears to be the case) then I'm just gonna have to do it.

 

I have a 98 150 4wd s.c. that started pinging at 60K, I now have 181K on it. It will quit with premium unleaded, happens when its hotter outside. It does have a knock sensor located under the intake manifold. I saw a website we they showed the waveform output of the KS on a Oscilloscope. I hooked my oscope up to pin 57 of the PCM module and monitored this signal. Sure enough when I tapped on the intake the signal responded very well, I also seemed to here the engine change slightly in idle. So in my case it is not the $55.00 K. sensor. I also unhooked the Octane calibration jig behind the battery. It is a grey plug with a green and a brown wire going to it. It is too earlly to tell if that has helped, it seemed to but might be my imagination. It appears to be the computer calibration settings. It is just not advancing the timing properly.
Addition 4-12-04
Run the truck for 4 days and pinging is all but gone. pinged just a little on wot pulling up a hill. I am checking my gas mileage now to see if I still get the standard 15mpg. All in all I am very satisfied with removing the octane shorting plug as another member more accurately discribed it.

 

Look at the things that cause pinging
1 lean fuel mixture
2 Heat
3 Timing
4 Higher compression
5 Load

The timimg should be taken care of by the computer and knock sensor.

Heat - Might try flushing the colling system and replacing the thermostat. Use a cleaner that removes any buildup in the engine.

Higher compression - carbon buildup. Might try the Seafoam treatment of sucking it through a vacuum port. Follow the can directions

Lean condtion - dirty injectors. Also injectors that are not firing properly. In my case the electrical connectons for the injectors were corroded. The injectors were not opening fully resulting in a lean fuel condtion. In my case it was not discovered until there was a missfire condition.

The shop cleaned the connectors and applied dielectric grease. It is running much better. My gas milage had dropped to about 14 from the usual 15.5. That was over a period of time.

 

Well Thank`s a lot for the Info on Using the Original Oil Filter ............I have a 1999 F-150 EXT. CAB 5.4 TRITON.....iT started to knock about a Month Ago....... I Purchased the Motorcraft 820s and Switced from Shell Synthetic to Mobil 1 5w-30 Full Synthetic and No More Knock........I Hope this Works for others with the Mighty 5.4 Triton....... I Love this Engines Torque..................

 

The intake air charge temperature sensor has a great deal to do with timing.
Maybe is is out of tolerence just enough to cause a problem but not far enough to set a code.