I'm sure this has been coverd before but I'll ask again.

How hard is it to change the plugs in my 5.4 engine?
I seem to remember someone suggesting I remove the fuel rails to gain access. Is this true? Or is there another way?
My truck has 85K on the original plugs and I should really change them. And by the way, no rough idle...yet.

Thanks guys.

 

Q: "How hard is it to change the plugs in my 5.4 engine?"

A: Hard in the sense of the term that access is the main problem. Takes alot of time and patience. You need a bunch of socket extensions and swivels. Took me four hours my first time.

Q: "I seem to remember someone suggesting I remove the fuel rails to gain access. Is this true? Or is there another way? "

A: While this may make it easier to get to the coil packs and plugs, it's something I did not do. Thought about it, but decided not to mess with it. You should be able to squeeze under them.

To sum it up, changing plugs on these things are a real PITA the first time. That's where you have to "learn" how each cylinder's access is going to be made.

You'll want to make sure you blow or vaccum out every plug hole BEFORE removing the plug. Dirt and such really like to hide down there. There is a small 7 or 8 mm hex head screw that holds down each coil pack. I found these to be the biggest PITA of the whole ordeal. Very hard to reach and pull out without dropping it. Then you have to put it back on! Ugh.......

It's a very "doable" process however. If you have the tools and have worked on cars before, it's worth the effort. You also know that the job is done completly. I'm not saying that a dealership or other tune up place would not replace all 8 plugs, but I could see where the tempation would be to "skip" a plug or two!

Good Luck. Just let me know if you have any more Q's on this. There are also a ton of posts with step by step instructions.

 

Mitch,
What type of plugs do u use? Has there ever been a general consensus on Splitfires, Platinum, etc being preferred over you generic ACDelcos?
Thanks

 

Sorry Mitch,
Went back a few pgs catching up and researching and I saw you answered about type of plugs a week or two ago. I gathered u r using +4's. Thanks anyways.

 

That's so cool that you actually went back and checked what I am currently using. Yeah, got the +4's. They seem to be fine. I checked one (#1) at 5k miles and it looks like it should. (tan, 4 little trails of "soot" where they should be for a +4).

I'm hoping the fact that these plugs did not need to be "gapped" that they will retain the necessary gap for at least 30K. That's when I plan on changing agian. (none of this 100k stuff).

Most don't like the Splitfires in these rigs........ I had 'em in my old '86 GT and they worked pretty good. Not really comparing "apples to apples" with a push rod 302 to these SOHC's our F150's have.

 

copper plugs are the best and the cheapest. You just have to change them more often as recommended.

Plugs are pretty simple in the trucks. Change the plug wires, now that is a chore! You will never complain about changing plugs again after changing the wires.

 

I have been putting off changing my plugs and wires. I figured the plugs would be the worst from what I've read.

I haven't explored the difficulty of a wire change. What are some of the problems I can expect to encounter?

'97 F150 4x4 4.6L Offroad Pkg

 

I got my platinum +4's this weekend. Are these the same size socket as the factory? I don't have a sparkplug socket and I will be buying one just for this. (I always could just use a deep well, but since this seems so tricky...) I would like to have the right tools when I get started, instead of getting all geared up only to find that I can't even pull the original plugs. Thanks for any help.

 

You should try to find a socket that has a built in swivel attached to it. This is so you can get it in the hole easier. Once it's down there it stays straight because of how deep it is. You'll also need some 3" and 6" extensions and probably another swivel. I used duct tape to hold the individual pieces together. Some combinations I had were pretty funny looking, but you need the tape to hold it all togheter. Nothing worse then to drop one of them while trying to get into a tight spot.

I also found that a small 1/4" set of sockets helps with the little screws that hold the coil packs down.

Good Luck!

 

What size are the original plugs though? Will I need a 3/4? I thought I read a 5/8 but I looked at the post and it wasn't real clear. It was an old post too.

 

It's The "smallest" one. 5/8" sounds right.

 

in process of changing my plugs and thought I would pass on some of the things i have learned so far on my 5.4L 1998:
5 will go real fast (5-10 mins each). these easy ones are the forward 3 on the passenger side and the forward 2 on the driver side. It looks like the last 3 will try to even the score (running out of daylight as i am doing them).
What u need:
1. 4" and 6" extensions. you will need both and another 4" looks like it will be needed.
2. 7mm and 8mm sockets. The 7mm are the screws that hold the coil packs down. the 8mm are the screws that hold the 2 plastic covers (the large one over the throtle body and the fuse cover on the top passenger firewall) down and the little bracket plate that covers the forward driver coil.
3. 5/8 inch spark plug socket. (if the rubber boot inside it is iffy, REPLACE THE SOCKET! the plugs are buried in the engine and u can not reach them. They are gonna come out in the socket or NOT AT ALL. Get the point?
4. As someone pointed out: use duct tape to MAKE SURE the sockets and extensions stay together. Dont screw up and leave some nice shiny chrome bits bouncing around...
5. Do ONE AT A TIME. First disconnect the little plug from the coil u r working on (there is a release tab on the underside of the plug. U have to squeeze/depress that tab and pull the plug at same time, which is tricky on a few cuz u can't get 2 hands on them). Then unscrew the 7mm screw. the coil is flexible (THANK GOD!) and will pose no problem getting out. About 3 inches in the hole is the top of the plug. Fairly easy to get out.
IT SHOULD BE ILLEGAL TO PUT PLUGS IN W/O USING ANTI-SEIZE!
Do yourself a favor: spend a couple of $ and get some anti-seize. It is a copper based compound and will prevent the plug from seizing when u take it out 3 yrs from now. That part is experience talking.

Just went over 70k on my '98 and it had original plugs. THe gaps are still pretty good (about .059) and had a nice white/gray coat on them w/ no wear on the platium electrode. I am replacing w/ Bosch Platinum +4's (Thanks Mitch!) at a whopping $5.50 each. Expensive but boy they look good. And bosch says they will never need gapping...

Kay, those are my lessons learned so far. will give installement 2 when i take the remaining 3 #$$%^&&& plugs out.

 

Thanks guys.
Sorry I didn't get bake to this sooner. Been buisy.

Now That I have an idea of what I'm getting into, I think I can tackle it myself.
Thanks for all the detailed tips, the more information the better.
Antiseize compound is great item isn't it? I have two jet-ski's and a boat, and use it on everything I take apart on a regular basis and on any threaded item thats going into aluminum.

One more question, when you tighten your plugs do you use a torque wrench?

 

Well it used to be duct tape and ty-wraps could fix anything.
i guess we need to add anti seize now too.

 

To remove the rear-most passenger plug and the back 3 on driver side, you have to remove the fuel rails (the chrome rails that run fore-to-aft above the manifold (each side of engine) and connect to the "yellow thingies" (fuel injectors)). There is a certain amount of play in the fuel lines that allow you to move the rails a certain amount (an inch or two) but it is enuff for you to do the job. Each rail is held on by two 7 or 8 mm screws. Remove those screws and simply lift the rails off the fuel injectors.

Note: Place one hand on the injector at a time and lift the rail off that injector and then move to the next injector and repeat. (the injectors simply "pop" in and can easily come off w/ the rail if u aren't careful. Also make sure to have the engine/area as clean as possible during this time).

Through use of a swivel attachment and a host of 4inch and 6inch extensions, you will find it pretty easy once you move those rails.

Reminder: make sure your plug socket's rubber boot inside is in good shape since you must extract the socket with it.

Suggestion: if you are getting to where you are thinking about changing the oil, wait til after the plug change. That way if any dirt accidently got in the plug hole while you were changing, you can get it out as quick as possible (after running the engine for a minute or two.

Good luck and DUCT TAPE THOSE SOCKETS/EXTENSIONS!