More Power
Superchip, most definitly!
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Fast46Triton ®
1999 Ford F150 XLT Supercab, Shortbed, 4x2, 4 wheel disc brakes/4 wheel Anti-Lock Brakes, Cloth Seats, Amazon green, 16" All season tires, Soft Tonneau Cover, CD Player, 4.6 liter Triton V8 with possible piston slap!, 3:55 ls, towing package, 4 speed auto, K&N Airfilter
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Fast46Triton ®
1999 Ford F150 XLT Supercab, Shortbed, 4x2, 4 wheel disc brakes/4 wheel Anti-Lock Brakes, Cloth Seats, Amazon green, 16" All season tires, Soft Tonneau Cover, CD Player, 4.6 liter Triton V8 with possible piston slap!, 3:55 ls, towing package, 4 speed auto, K&N Airfilter
I have done the same mods and I'm thinking the same thing, What next? Ignition system seems to be highest on the list, but what about an underdrive pully? And Headers? How much will those help?
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'99 F150 XLT,Wedgewood Blue, 4.6 V8, SC, Penda liner, K&N FIPK, Superchip, Gibson 3" stainless single, Edelbrock IAS shocks
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'99 F150 XLT,Wedgewood Blue, 4.6 V8, SC, Penda liner, K&N FIPK, Superchip, Gibson 3" stainless single, Edelbrock IAS shocks
cruzer, under drive pulleys I have heard any where from 8 - 10 hp nothing really big and headers would be even less than that on the 4.6L due to the heads. Also, headers aren't cheap and easy installs if you know what I mean. :~(
BigRed
It is true that the motor does not breath well, but did you get any performance gains with your 3" intake tube and poweraid? The Triton intake manifold is a long runner design to produce the 290 ftlbs of torque. Stangs, T-Birds, Crown Vics all have shorter runners and run lower at a peak of 265-280 ftlbs.(Except the new '99 up Stangs)
Sure a stock MAF will flow plenty of air, but with some amount of drag. To free up top end horsepower a higher flow MAF will work, too many people have proven this (myself included)or they wouldn't sell as many as they do.
Is your Superchip an off-the-shelf calibration or did you specify anything?
Things to specify, remove tip-in spark retard, engage TC lockup at WOT in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears,(gets the torque to the ground instead of wasting it on the fluid), get a more accurate MAF, 80mm ProM race, and have the transfer function burned into the chip.
I agree on the pulleys, they could be your next bolt-on power improver.
How about headers?
You want real tuning tips look at the Mustang BBSes Corral.net, musclestang.com.
birdman
It is true that the motor does not breath well, but did you get any performance gains with your 3" intake tube and poweraid? The Triton intake manifold is a long runner design to produce the 290 ftlbs of torque. Stangs, T-Birds, Crown Vics all have shorter runners and run lower at a peak of 265-280 ftlbs.(Except the new '99 up Stangs)
Sure a stock MAF will flow plenty of air, but with some amount of drag. To free up top end horsepower a higher flow MAF will work, too many people have proven this (myself included)or they wouldn't sell as many as they do.
Is your Superchip an off-the-shelf calibration or did you specify anything?
Things to specify, remove tip-in spark retard, engage TC lockup at WOT in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears,(gets the torque to the ground instead of wasting it on the fluid), get a more accurate MAF, 80mm ProM race, and have the transfer function burned into the chip.
I agree on the pulleys, they could be your next bolt-on power improver.
How about headers?
You want real tuning tips look at the Mustang BBSes Corral.net, musclestang.com.
birdman
I have to disagree with Superchips_Distributor on the Throttle body issue! I put an aftermarket TB on my Z28 - LT1 and got VERY GOOD results at the track! About 1/10 in the 1/4...All bolt-ons, never got into the engine!
I installed just about EVERYTHING you could bolt on to my Z28.... Heres my .02!
RULE OF THUMB:
EACH MOD HELPS THE NEXT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1) If you do 1 mod at a time you will notice a small change (maybe)....
2) If you do ALL MODS at once you will think you have a freaking new engine!
Buy your mods and put them on a shelf until you have all you intend on installing. Then take a weekend and install THEM ALL at the same time....You will be surprised!
If your looking for the CHEAPEST way to get a kick..... Go synthetics, install pulleys, look into replacing the stock muffler(s), GUT THE CATS (its free, just takes time and *****)!
Sythetics: 1-5 HP $25-$30
Pulleys: 10-15 HP $100-$125
Mufflers: 5-7 HP $50
CATS: 10-15 HP+ $0.00
(CATS can be misleading: A Z28 was test and found that the cats where high flowing, removal only gained 5 or 6 HP, However I'm willing to bet that Ford trucks are CLOGGED FROM THE GET-GO!)
Basically try to get ALL the restrictions off the intake and exhaust if you can!
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Rand
I installed just about EVERYTHING you could bolt on to my Z28.... Heres my .02!
RULE OF THUMB:
EACH MOD HELPS THE NEXT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1) If you do 1 mod at a time you will notice a small change (maybe)....
2) If you do ALL MODS at once you will think you have a freaking new engine!
Buy your mods and put them on a shelf until you have all you intend on installing. Then take a weekend and install THEM ALL at the same time....You will be surprised!
If your looking for the CHEAPEST way to get a kick..... Go synthetics, install pulleys, look into replacing the stock muffler(s), GUT THE CATS (its free, just takes time and *****)!
Sythetics: 1-5 HP $25-$30
Pulleys: 10-15 HP $100-$125
Mufflers: 5-7 HP $50
CATS: 10-15 HP+ $0.00
(CATS can be misleading: A Z28 was test and found that the cats where high flowing, removal only gained 5 or 6 HP, However I'm willing to bet that Ford trucks are CLOGGED FROM THE GET-GO!)
Basically try to get ALL the restrictions off the intake and exhaust if you can!
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Rand
The big squeeze nos it is a quick an easy way for the extra hp and there is no better bang for the buck only draw back is filling bottle but you didn't say if you wanted the power all time but it is fun a small kit wont hurt your enigne if you follow the directions from manf.
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2000 f150 4x4 offroad pkg, 5.4 xlt
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2000 f150 4x4 offroad pkg, 5.4 xlt
Rand, the LT1 and the 4.6L that I have are two totally different animals. Typically most of the Chevy V-8's gain significant benefits from the intake/exhaust mods. Unfortunately the 4.6L doesn't reap the same benefits due to the reasons I stated in my prior post. Saving up mods is a good idea, but I can hardly help but put them on when I by them.
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99' F-150 XLT SC 4X4 ORP LS 4.6L - K&N Air Filter & Custom 3" Intake from fender to TB, Superchip, PowerAid, Rapidflow 3" single CatBack exhaust, Fluidyne Trany cooler, A.R.E. Cover, Duraliner bed liner.
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99' F-150 XLT SC 4X4 ORP LS 4.6L - K&N Air Filter & Custom 3" Intake from fender to TB, Superchip, PowerAid, Rapidflow 3" single CatBack exhaust, Fluidyne Trany cooler, A.R.E. Cover, Duraliner bed liner.
I just found a way to get a little more power for allmost no money, if you are using the replacement K&N filter. I took the plastic cone off the stock air filter. I then cut of about a 1/2 inch off the bottom with a dremel tool.The K&N filter is a little taller than the factory filter. I then drilled a hole in the top of the cone, and one in the center of the flat part of the K&N filer.Then I got a 2 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt, a 2 inch Stainless steel fender washer, and a stainless steel lock bolt. I then attached the cone onto the K&N filter, I also used locktite on the bolt, just in case.
It seams to smooth out the airflow to the filter. I feel a little more power, and am getting a little better gas milage too. I don't have to give as much gas to keep up my sppeds on hills, and the highway.
I forgot who did this too, I read it here someware recently, was not my idea but it works, and becides the chip, was the best mod I have done.
[This message has been edited by Don C (edited 01-20-2000).]
It seams to smooth out the airflow to the filter. I feel a little more power, and am getting a little better gas milage too. I don't have to give as much gas to keep up my sppeds on hills, and the highway.
I forgot who did this too, I read it here someware recently, was not my idea but it works, and becides the chip, was the best mod I have done.
[This message has been edited by Don C (edited 01-20-2000).]
BIG RED2:
I agree! Its hard not to put them on when you buy them... I was guilty of that. However, I have matured a bit. Good things really do come to those who wait!!!
Personally, I think modifying these trucks is a total waste of time and money. I am just trying to support those who don't think the way I do! I am a true HP junky!!! Just trying to help others who have the love for HP!
I have a 98 Expedition 5.4L (been in the dealers for 2 weeks getting the 5.4 transplant)... I won't mod it, it runs great and has plenty of torque. I do use K&N and synthetics. Thats about it!
Like to have a Navigator engine in it though!
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Rand
I agree! Its hard not to put them on when you buy them... I was guilty of that. However, I have matured a bit. Good things really do come to those who wait!!!
Personally, I think modifying these trucks is a total waste of time and money. I am just trying to support those who don't think the way I do! I am a true HP junky!!! Just trying to help others who have the love for HP!
I have a 98 Expedition 5.4L (been in the dealers for 2 weeks getting the 5.4 transplant)... I won't mod it, it runs great and has plenty of torque. I do use K&N and synthetics. Thats about it!
Like to have a Navigator engine in it though!
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Rand
So it sounds like you have really done most of the mods that deliver bang for the $buck$.
Here is my input: The term or feeling of "HP" is really a matter of physics. It's all about power to weight ratios. You can make drastic performance improvements by REMOVING weight. I have never considered this need myself but I'm certain you can easily find 200+lbs. of dead weight to get rid of. Think of the difference a "Chubby Buddy" has on the performance of your truck. By removing the equal amount of weight as a friend, you will experience the same senstaions you do now when flying solo as when they are with you.
If you are intent on making your HP output higher.. it's simple: the more air/fuel you can squeeze into a combustion chamber the more you increse volumentric efficiency (up to a point way out there). Here a some practical and non practical solutions. 1)Increase the ease of airflow with header/exhaust mods COMBINED with having the intake and heads ported at a speed shop. Then change the MAF etc. 2)Increase the air density adding a supercharger (or the poor mans way by moving to a lower elevation or driving in colder conditions).
Sorry to be long winded!
Bruce
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Here is my input: The term or feeling of "HP" is really a matter of physics. It's all about power to weight ratios. You can make drastic performance improvements by REMOVING weight. I have never considered this need myself but I'm certain you can easily find 200+lbs. of dead weight to get rid of. Think of the difference a "Chubby Buddy" has on the performance of your truck. By removing the equal amount of weight as a friend, you will experience the same senstaions you do now when flying solo as when they are with you.
If you are intent on making your HP output higher.. it's simple: the more air/fuel you can squeeze into a combustion chamber the more you increse volumentric efficiency (up to a point way out there). Here a some practical and non practical solutions. 1)Increase the ease of airflow with header/exhaust mods COMBINED with having the intake and heads ported at a speed shop. Then change the MAF etc. 2)Increase the air density adding a supercharger (or the poor mans way by moving to a lower elevation or driving in colder conditions).
Sorry to be long winded!
Bruce
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