Proper Break-in
Any suggestions on the best way to break in a new 5.4L V8 in a 2000 F150 4X4? The dealer suggests running the engine hard to loosen it up rather than babying it. He said that babying this motor when it's new will result in less power in the long run.
I too have a 2000 with the 5.4L and im at 900 miles now. I saw nothing in the manual sayin NOT to run it hard during break in...although i stayed at 50% throttle or less the whole time. It just doesnt make sense to me to run an engine hard in the first 1000 miles because this is when important things happen! The piston rings pattern 'settles' into the cylinder walls...the same for lifter/cam contact areas. As far as "losing power in the longrun"...i would think the opposite would be true. Atleast as far as I know its common knowledge to go easy on a motor so you dont scor the cylinders before the rings are properly worn into the cyl. walls which would cause premature blowby and make the cylinders lose compression earlier in the engines life..IE lose power. I know Ford "breaks in" these engines before they ever leave the factory, but IMO its better to be safe than sorry. Im sure there will be more opinions to come. this is my $.02
DS
------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4x2, supercab, shortbed, 5.4L auto, 3.55 LS, Class III tow/cooling, 4 wheel disk/ABS, Med Toreador solid, Med Graphite int, 60/40 bench, sliding r.window, pwr everything except seat, 16" chrome alloys
*** In the Works - FabTech 3.5",Bullseye spindles,3" bodylift,Eagle 589's w/35x12.50 BFG AT ko's,alarm/keyless entry,Changer/Fosgate amp/JL subs (when i figure how im gonna make the box fit!) ***
[This message has been edited by DirtSlinger (edited 01-19-2000).]
DS

------------------
2000 F150 XLT 4x2, supercab, shortbed, 5.4L auto, 3.55 LS, Class III tow/cooling, 4 wheel disk/ABS, Med Toreador solid, Med Graphite int, 60/40 bench, sliding r.window, pwr everything except seat, 16" chrome alloys
*** In the Works - FabTech 3.5",Bullseye spindles,3" bodylift,Eagle 589's w/35x12.50 BFG AT ko's,alarm/keyless entry,Changer/Fosgate amp/JL subs (when i figure how im gonna make the box fit!) ***
[This message has been edited by DirtSlinger (edited 01-19-2000).]
I agree with Rand, in what I've learned about engines too. The constant variance of speed, especially de-acceleration, will "bathe" the rings in oil, helping break-in the rings safely. The crank and rod bearings usually "seat" fairly quickly, and I also wouldn't run it hard for the first 1,500 or so..I've also heard that an engine isn't fully broke in(rings,bearings,anything that moves internally) until about 20,000 or so miles...my 02 cents
------------------
------------------
I like your dealer. He's a real man's man! Or maybe he is just interested in resale after you blow this baby up? Variation is the spice of life. But he is partially correct. Don't over baby it as the computer is learning your driving habits.
------------------
97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!), MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening "Summer Grill's", Bosch platinum + 4's.
------------------
97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!), MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening "Summer Grill's", Bosch platinum + 4's.
Proper Break In:
First you get a slim jim. Slide it between the glass and the door sill.
ooops,,wrong kind of break in
------------------
2000 F150 SC XLT
5.4
4-sp auto
255/70r-16
3.55 LS
Heavy Duty electric
Heavy Duty cooling
Trailer Towing Group
Keyless Entry
Soft Cover
Captains Chairs
wedg blue& silver two tone
Fog Lights
Bed Liner
Fender Flairs
Cab Steps
10 disc CD changer
(Just 892 more payments and that sucker is all mine)
First you get a slim jim. Slide it between the glass and the door sill.
ooops,,wrong kind of break in
------------------
2000 F150 SC XLT
5.4
4-sp auto
255/70r-16
3.55 LS
Heavy Duty electric
Heavy Duty cooling
Trailer Towing Group
Keyless Entry
Soft Cover
Captains Chairs
wedg blue& silver two tone
Fog Lights
Bed Liner
Fender Flairs
Cab Steps
10 disc CD changer
(Just 892 more payments and that sucker is all mine)
Trending Topics
Same advice my dad gave me a long time ago. I just wonder how accurate it is on these OHC engines?
Neither my [former] '93 F150 nor the '97 Expedition have ever used or lost a drop of oil. Both were run hard from day 1 and continue to see "stoplight drags" as well as towing and hauling stuff. So, with only 250 miles, I'll admit that my 2000 has been to WOT a time (or ten
)
Neither my [former] '93 F150 nor the '97 Expedition have ever used or lost a drop of oil. Both were run hard from day 1 and continue to see "stoplight drags" as well as towing and hauling stuff. So, with only 250 miles, I'll admit that my 2000 has been to WOT a time (or ten
)
I agree...vary the speed, don't baby it too much (and avoid using the brakes very hard for the first 1,000 miles - owners manual).
I am at 2,300 miles..and have been driving it normally since about 800 miles...which does include some hard driving...NOT BEATING ON IT..big difference there. Not so much as a wimper or a rough idle.
I drove my 98 5.4L the same way..and at trade in with almost 20,000 miles...it was running great. Never a problem.
I have ALWAYS changed the oil for the first time very early...at 500 miles or so...on every new vehicle..then at 3,000 miles...and then every 2,500-3,000 thereafter.
I have been told time after time by mechanics NOT to go over board on being gentle with an engine...this is also not good for it.
---------------------------------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99
[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 01-19-2000).]
I am at 2,300 miles..and have been driving it normally since about 800 miles...which does include some hard driving...NOT BEATING ON IT..big difference there. Not so much as a wimper or a rough idle.
I drove my 98 5.4L the same way..and at trade in with almost 20,000 miles...it was running great. Never a problem.
I have ALWAYS changed the oil for the first time very early...at 500 miles or so...on every new vehicle..then at 3,000 miles...and then every 2,500-3,000 thereafter.
I have been told time after time by mechanics NOT to go over board on being gentle with an engine...this is also not good for it.
---------------------------------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, 4 wheel disk ABS, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99
[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 01-19-2000).]


